Black wash has no flow; blocked nozzles?

13larry · 02-24-2017, 11:05 AM

My 2015 Sunseeker black tank flush no longer works. When water hose is connected no water flows. Need to know how to access the flush system to repair. Remove outside fitting and hose just disappears. Worked correctly last fall using my home water hose.

Is it true you can use up to 80psi air to unclog?

5picker · 02-24-2017, 11:25 AM

Have you checked the anti-siphon, anti-backflow valve?
They can stick shut.
It is often located under the vanity in the bathroom.
Looks like this...

13larry · 02-24-2017, 11:29 AM

What model is your Sunseeker RV? Mine is a 3050s

Forester Fred · 02-24-2017, 06:21 PM

Read this post, I fixed mine. I also replaced the plastic anti siphon valve with a brass one. I'd be careful about using 80psi....I don't know how strong the connections are.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ut-106550.html

Telstar · 02-25-2017, 01:13 PM

The spray head on our tank was clogged. I replaced it with the new rotating type, works much better.

Hey_nav · 02-25-2017, 01:37 PM

Just got mine back from dealer here in Florida for the same thing. They claim "it was just clogged with debris from the black tank". Since nothing was "broken", it was not covered under warranty and cost me $149 to fix. I used it religiously for two months and then all of a sudden it stopped working. With an anti-siphon valve on the system, i'm not sure how debris got into the nozzle and clogged it up... but thats what they're claiming.

Sagecoachdriver · 02-25-2017, 01:56 PM

What would happen if you filled the black water tank with hot water and added a few tank tablets letting it sit for a few days. Then drain and try flushing? Do you think it would soften the clog and allow it to clear?
On my Forester 2701ds, the black tank flush is visible in my outside compartment where the water pump and filter are located. Mine appears to have just 2 screws holding in with silicone caulk. I could also unclamp it and blow out the nozzle if needed.

RVnMarine · 02-27-2017, 02:25 PM

Have experienced similar problem with my 2016 Georgetown 378XL. Do to other problems didn't get to try black wash til enroute to Florida. 1st time out found it would not allow flush water to flow into tank. Notified dealer, and started flushing with a wand. Thanks to post on forum which provided a picture of the valve. I located mine in closet plumbed for washer. Removed valve and checked, no obstruction. Further analysis led me to conclude valve was installed backwards (inlet to outlet and oulet to inlet). Removed it and reinstalled other way. Water now flows into flush system. My concern now is that the reconfiguration changes the horizontal/vertical layout of the valve. (Pic of new config attached). Any one know if the will present any problems.
(Note, picture taken with IPad, but system turns upside down when posted.)
RVnMarine
GT 378XL

mikej248 · 02-27-2017, 06:05 PM

I had the same problem. I solved it by first determining that there was no blockage between the inlet and the valve. Then I checked the valve to make sure it was working properly. Then, I squirted about 1/2 cup of Calgon liquid into the line going to the tank. Let it sit for a couple of days. Hooked everything back up, connected the flush hose and turned it on. Worked like new!

OldCoot · 02-27-2017, 06:28 PM

Last year, I mixed SuperClean/Pinesol/water in equal parts and had no problem in the Blue Streak. Over the summer the mixture evidently congealed and wouldn't flow, so this year I just used a 50/50 mixture of SuperClean and water and it worked great. Waste just dissolves and doesn't solidify. We DO NOT put any paper products in the black tank tho. We tow with about 2-3 gallons of water flushed down the toilet which is the above mentioned mixture from the Blue Streak. I've also removed the backflow vent and hose completely from under the bathroom sink and the black tank inlet goes directly to the tank nozzle. The inlet has a factory installed backflow preventer right behind the inlet.

13larry · 03-02-2017, 11:05 AM

Does anyone know where the anti-siphon, anti-backflow valve is located in a Sunseeker 3050s?

Hoglou · 03-02-2017, 03:35 PM

Try an experiment with ittle calgon in a cup of tank (like tst) treatment. Report back and let us know if that is what you want in your tank... Made a goo type paste when I sampled it. Using the geo method may be great but mixing the two is problematic from my view..

wana65stang · 03-05-2017, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 13larry

Does anyone know where the anti-siphon, anti-backflow valve is located in a Sunseeker 3050s?

I would like to know also??

appalachian trail · 03-13-2017, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 13larry

Does anyone know where the anti-siphon, anti-backflow valve is located in a Sunseeker 3050s?

Mine was located behind the drawer in the bathroom vanity. The factory black plastic valve was sticking so I replaced it with a brass retrofit one that I found on E-Bay, no more problems.

davegood · 05-05-2017, 06:22 PM

I have a 2011 Sunseeker 2300 with the same problem. The backflow valve is located high up behind the vanity sink and I have no idea how to get to it. Is this valve necessary? If I ever can get to it, I just want to get rid of the thing! How can black tank liquid ever back up to the washer inlet which is just below the outside shower?

OldCoot · 05-05-2017, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davegood

I have a 2011 Sunseeker 2300 with the same problem. The backflow valve is located high up behind the vanity sink and I have no idea how to get to it. Is this valve necessary? If I ever can get to it, I just want to get rid of the thing! How can black tank liquid ever back up to the washer inlet which is just below the outside shower?

If you have a back flow valve at the city water inlet connection for the black tank you can just cut the hose and connect it to the hose going to the black tank flush and leave the valve under the vanity there.

Total Loss · 05-06-2017, 10:16 AM

The cheap plastic backflow valves are...well...cheap.
My aftermarket one I installed only lasted a year.

davegood · 05-06-2017, 10:19 AM

I think what you are saying is to cut the hoses on either side of the backflow valve and connect them together. So the valve is really not necessary. My problem is the valve is way up under the sink and I don't think I can get to it without removing the sink or possibly the outside shower.

5picker · 05-06-2017, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davegood

I think what you are saying is to cut the hoses on either side of the backflow valve and connect them together. So the valve is really not necessary. My problem is the valve is way up under the sink and I don't think I can get to it without removing the sink or possibly the outside shower.

Cut them wherever you can get to them.
Often times the lines go up through (and then back down) the basement or a compartment. You can often eliminate several feet of plumbing.

bubbles · 05-06-2017, 11:02 AM

This is not the same company made valve as the black ones but they function identically and are the same inside. The input to the tank from the valve is through a normally closed spring loaded ball shut off valve that prevents any backflow. The disk shut off valve on the input side rises to allow flow to the tank valve. The disk valve cavity is vented to allow the disk to collapse back to the input side port. Water that's still in the input side tubing will drain back out but is in no way contaminated. When flushed there is no water in the holding tank and it is also vented. No one has ever explained how this system can contaminate another system. There is only one side of this valve that ever has positive pressure and it is the input side. Due to the construction there is no syphoning possible (dual shutoffs).This is for those so adamant about using a dedicated hose for the cleanout. Personally, because of the routing of the cleanout tubing (several feet above the tank) I think it's overkill.

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