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Old 12-24-2015, 08:43 AM   #1
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Class C Leveling Question

We have a 3170DS, and have taken it out once, camping at a level drive through site. We didn't even use the rear jacks. Upcoming we will be at a number of parks, and are wondering about leveling the coach. We only have rear jacks, the salesman said we probably wouldn't even use them??? Certainly we will, but are leveling blocks something we need for the front wheels. Should we also chock the front wheels too? Thanks for the insight.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:08 AM   #2
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We seldom use anything to level our C. Most campsites will let us get level enough with some selective positioning. IF we do need a bit of help we have a couple of 2x10 stepped boards that give ~1-1/2 & 3 inches and a shovel that will let us pile dirt/gravel. One does not need to be dead level as long as the slope is not much and in the direction that keeps us in bed instead of sliding out. ;-)
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:19 AM   #3
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I have auto levelers and use them all the time. Just not for leveling. Also stops some of the movement of the coach. Main reason for leveling is for the fridge.
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:14 PM   #4
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Should we also chock the front wheels too? Thanks for the insight.
Yes, you should definitely chock the front wheel(s). When you put the vehicle in Park, and set the Park brake, both of those actions only affect the rear wheels. It is unlikely you would roll forward if your rear axle was raised off the ground with your rear levelers / stabilizers but chocking the front wheels removes the possibility.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:08 PM   #5
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I think you have stabilizers not jacks you don't level with that its only to firm up so not to rock when walking or moving in Rv
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:26 PM   #6
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FWIW I do not think I have ever seen anyone use front wheel chocks. On basically level ground with the parking brake on and the transmission in park I would wonder why one would.
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Old 12-25-2015, 05:25 AM   #7
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It's interesting that the original poster only has rear jacks. The Sunseeker and Forester coaches sit about 2 inches lower in the front. Many times we have only had to put our Lynx Leveler blocks under the front tires.

And yes, you need be very alert and avoid lifting the rear wheels off the ground. A friend who had levelers on his Forester mentioned the scare he had when this happened. Front chocks are a good idea.
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Old 12-25-2015, 07:32 AM   #8
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I too use the Lynx blocks up front and my jacks are snug in rear and up front where the entry door is. This brings up the front when being in one spot for a while. I like the coach as level as possible. I use a one foot level and check several areas when leveling. I also like that the movement is at a minimum.
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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My take is if you are in private campgrounds the pads are almost always near level. If you are in state or national park campgrounds you are lucky if the site in near level. I have a set of the Lynx blocks that make leveling fast and easy.

As far as chucking the wheel, unless you are at a very steep angle the parking break is good (for motor vehicles "park" must hold the vehicle stationary on a 30% grade by law - from memory).

My lyn blocks have cracked a far amount, and today my Son gave me a set of Camco blocks so I will get to compare them. Possible future post.
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Old 12-25-2015, 05:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by LTRVing View Post
We have a 3170DS, and have taken it out once, camping at a level drive through site. We didn't even use the rear jacks. Upcoming we will be at a number of parks, and are wondering about leveling the coach. We only have rear jacks, the salesman said we probably wouldn't even use them??? Certainly we will, but are leveling blocks something we need for the front wheels. Should we also chock the front wheels too? Thanks for the insight.
The s
Sizzor Jacks are strictly for stabilizers I use leveling blocks then crank down Sizzors. I also have them on.front to take movement out.
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Old 12-25-2015, 06:32 PM   #11
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I generally use ramps for front tires. Then wood pads under the hydraulic jacks. Chocks on front tires. Chocks on rear tires only if I use ramps on them.
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Old 12-29-2015, 02:12 PM   #12
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If anyone has any brilliant ideas on how to crank down the rear stabilizer jacks on the rig (3170DS in my case) I'd love to hear it! Crawling under every time is not fun. Thought about permanent extenders that would be accessible under the rear bumper but haven't got it done yet.
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Old 12-29-2015, 02:22 PM   #13
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Its been covered before on the forum. the best suggestion was a 2'-3' socket extension with a battery operated drill with socket adapter
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Old 12-29-2015, 03:21 PM   #14
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Our 3170DS (used), came with a long, probably 2' or better hand crank.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:30 AM   #15
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Do all 3170DS have rear stabilizers? I have a 2014 and have been under it a few times and do not remember seeing any. Any pics would be great
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:10 PM   #16
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We have a 2011 3170 and do not have any stabilizers.
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:12 PM   #17
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Ours is a 2013 3170DS and it does have rear stabilizers.
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Old 01-23-2016, 08:59 AM   #18
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Invest in Bigfoot Jacks. I drove to Michigan and had them installed at the plant. 4000 dollars but worth every penny. Pull in push a button and wala. Never had any issues with them.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:42 PM   #19
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FWIW I do not think I have ever seen anyone use front wheel chocks. On basically level ground with the parking brake on and the transmission in park I would wonder why one would.

"On basically level ground," the parking brake and Park would do fine. But if leveling the unit involves raising the rear, we sure as heck need to chock the front. Safety precautions are taken because bad things can happen, for example a stabilizer suddenly collapsing or snapping off the frame. Like OP's unit, all the MBS units come with rear stabilizers only (as option), not levelers. There is no indicator or gauge that tells you if you have raised it too far or high enough to make the brakes insecure - it's all eyeball and judgment. Since we sometimes have to camp "on a hill" extra precautions are called for. Blocking the rear wheels up 4" does make it look like front wheel chocks might be in order!


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Old 01-24-2016, 07:56 PM   #20
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Class C Leveling Question

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Originally Posted by LTRVing View Post
We have a 3170DS, and have taken it out once, camping at a level drive through site. We didn't even use the rear jacks. Upcoming we will be at a number of parks, and are wondering about leveling the coach. We only have rear jacks, the salesman said we probably wouldn't even use them??? Certainly we will, but are leveling blocks something we need for the front wheels. Should we also chock the front wheels too? Thanks for the insight.

You may also need blocks for the rear wheels. It's not uncommon to back into a space where the rear is too low. The rear stabilizer jacks are, as a prior commenter stated, only for stabilizing. They are not for leveling. Also they will not help you in side to side leveling, where you may need to block one side's wheel. Once you have done this in an uneven spot once or twice, you will realize how many blocks you need. For example,
If you need 4" on two tires, you will need a minimum of 8 blocks and 12 would be preferable (if using 2x6" size). They will be set 1-2-2-1 (2"-4"-4"-2") so you have a ramp up, a reasonable platform to hit and park on, and also a safety ramp down the back side in case you overrun the platform as can easily happen despite best efforts, and you do NOT want to drive an RV off a 4" cliff!

Check this out, which I had to do on one hard spot once - and the "ramp" blocks had been removed once set up when this photo was taken. Count the blocks for one wheel. The front right also had to be blocked but not as much. Total used probably 15 or so.

Attachment 98305


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