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Old 03-08-2019, 06:32 PM   #1
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Door Latch

The door to my new RV is extremely cumbersome to open/close. I looked at where it's catching and I think it's because the poles sliding into the door latch are just barely deep enough to fit into it. I think because there are dual metal plates there for entry? This seems strange to me and I've never seen dual plates. Is this a screw up or something legit?

See attached picture.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:00 PM   #2
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a double latch may be there to move the latch point closer to the door IF the metal bars do not protrude far enough out from the door...
BUT,
it may also make it more difficult to close if it is TOO CLOSE to the door...
remove one of the latches if that is the case...
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:04 PM   #3
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The double plate is for strength in an accident, and may make it tougher to pry.

I would bend it if needed, and use something like boshield on the parts to make them easier to operate.

The door and surround is installed as a unit, so the double played is by design.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsdata View Post
a double latch may be there to move the latch point closer to the door IF the metal bars do not protrude far enough out from the door...
BUT,
it may also make it more difficult to close if it is TOO CLOSE to the door...
remove one of the latches if that is the case...
I'd love to. The problem is both of those latches are behind the frame - I can't pull them out (at least not by pulling out just those 2 screws) - looks like I have to pull off the whole frame.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:11 PM   #5
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Just adding another photo of it.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:14 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Dp26 View Post
The double plate is for strength in an accident, and may make it tougher to pry.

I would bend it if needed, and use something like boshield on the parts to make them easier to operate.

The door and surround is installed as a unit, so the double played is by design.
This makes sense thanks! I'll just keep working on it and see how it goes. But it's so hard to push that my children and wife can't really open the door right now. (The other day I couldn't without pulling extremely hard over 3-4 tries).
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:18 PM   #7
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It may be possible, with a large amount of trial and error, to remove the plate, but it is actually easier to remove the door. (I replaced my own door under warranty... so I know.)


Since your RV is new, it will take some time to settle. As long as you can open and close, live with it for a trip or two. Lube it. If you have to, loosen the screws on the striker plate and move it up or down. Bend it in or out if needed.


Also note, the door design is so the top and bottom "hit" first, to keep the door closed snug for weather and rattle. (My DW hates it, since she can see the bow when the door is open.) This also makes it need a fair push/pull right in the middle (when new) to close.



Also note, if you ask a mechanic to adjust your door, it is done with 2x4's and force...


As you may have guessed, our door was an issue. When I replaced it, I opened up the holes in the jamb so I had more adjustment for the striker plate to be adjusted, which solved the up and down adjustment issue. For the in and out, I bend the striker plate carefully.


I also tried both of the major keyless lock sets, none of which fit or adjusted any better (on my door style).


The one good thing about the whole door replacement is the decals are ordered on a per side basis, so I have plenty of decal left over for touch up, and I was able to add some to the front fenders to make the house decals flow to the fenders.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by sbentrup View Post
This makes sense thanks! I'll just keep working on it and see how it goes. But it's so hard to push that my children and wife can't really open the door right now. (The other day I couldn't without pulling extremely hard over 3-4 tries).

DW and DD not being able to operate the door was the main issue for us as well. Thankfully, I am good enough to fix it myself, since my "dealer" was of minimal help. FR was fine with me doing the install as long as I waivered out of further coverage for the door. It actually took two doors to be shipped for one to arrive at the dealer in good enough shape to accept. I had to get the shipping and receiving dates from FR, as the dealer was of no help since warranty work is a money loser, could not even get a call to say they noticed a door in their shop with my name on it...


--


When the door unit is installed into the rough opening, I doubt the installer took the time to check for need of a shim, which would have prevented what you describe. When I reinstalled my replacement, there were no shims, and I had to add a couple.




The boeshield is great as a lube as it works well without leaving a noticeable residue, and does not need so much to make a mess on hands or clothes.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:51 PM   #9
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Maybe the double latch isn't the problem. Maybe it's too high, low, forward or back. It looks like it definitely has room to move down.

Good luck.
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:14 PM   #10
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The double layer is normal and needs to be that way for strength, as well as DOT certification.
1st steps are to adjust striker up up to center the slots on the door posts. If the posts appear to be short and dragging on the back of the strike plate it is be ase the door was not installed correctly. You can remove the posts on the door and see if that is the issue. If it is you an add a shim/washer before reinstalling the posts. It may be difficult to remove the post as they may have been installed using locktite, a bit of heat may help if you can’t easily remove them.
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Old 03-09-2019, 10:59 AM   #11
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The double layer is normal and needs to be that way for strength, as well as DOT certification.
1st steps are to adjust striker up up to center the slots on the door posts. If the posts appear to be short and dragging on the back of the strike plate it is be ase the door was not installed correctly. You can remove the posts on the door and see if that is the issue. If it is you an add a shim/washer before reinstalling the posts. It may be difficult to remove the post as they may have been installed using locktite, a bit of heat may help if you can’t easily remove them.

Agree with above, I did remove the posts to prove that they were the problem, then I reinstalled with removable locktite and adjusted to clear the strike plate. The removable locktite allows future adjustment while keeping the posts in place.
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Old 03-09-2019, 11:31 AM   #12
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I removed my double for same reason. It was interfering with the door closing...it was too damn close. removed top plate, had to go up a screw size and longer as factory barely went an eighth inch into frame and both holes were stripped out....strength ?? yeah...right. Bottom plate was bent and after I straightened it out and re-installed, the door has worked flawlessly.
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:34 PM   #13
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This may help.

This is what I did to mine a few years ago. It has been fine since then.
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Old 03-20-2019, 07:20 PM   #14
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I also had problems with my door latch from day one and finally had enough of it sticking and not closing right. Did not help that the operation of the door was affected by the fact that it was up on the levels or not (I suspect that leveling it flexs the housing enough to move the door slightly more out of alignment.) By a combination of moving and grinding the latch plates and alignment studs I was able to get it working perfectly. Hopefully it will not need any more adjustments going forward.

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Old 03-20-2019, 10:17 PM   #15
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I had an issue with mine rubbing where the latch plate is against the jam plate. I had to file it off a little to get it to work smoothly. It was hard to close and hard to open. Not a big job. Look for where it may be rubbing. If that is what is binding it you will definitely see some rub marks on it.
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Old 03-27-2019, 02:35 PM   #16
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Sticky door

I have a 2018 Forester 2401W,dealer tried to adjust striker plate,as you can see,only up/down adjustment.They were no help😖What I did remove black plastic screen latch below striker so I could see where it was hanging up.I found rods coming out of door needed to be longer.I added one M7 washer to each rod and now door works like it should.the metric washer was a perfect fit..You may need to adjust screen latch too...Hope this helps califjeff
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Old 03-27-2019, 07:51 PM   #17
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I have a 2018 Forester 2401W,dealer tried to adjust striker plate,as you can see,only up/down adjustment.They were no help😖What I did remove black plastic screen latch below striker so I could see where it was hanging up.I found rods coming out of door needed to be longer.I added one M7 washer to each rod and now door works like it should.the metric washer was a perfect fit..You may need to adjust screen latch too...Hope this helps califjeff
I used the same washers behind the latching rods. A lot of times the door latch system needs a minor up/down adjustment to compensate for body torsion when using the auto level jacks. Only takes about 10 seconds to do the adjustments.
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Old 01-04-2021, 11:53 AM   #18
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OK, so I put a three inch screw in the striker plate. The plate is stable and the door now latches. I will replace the other screw with a three inch screw as well. Much the same as when I did the same on the front door of my house.
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