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Old 01-30-2018, 05:23 PM   #1
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drain plug removal on hot water tank!

My hot water drain plug on my 2017 Forester 2861DS is plastic and after three removals to winterize and drain, the corners are worn off the 15/16 inch bolt head. The plug is shrouded by the gas lines and sharp metal baffles and only by patient wrench turning and accurate placement of bandaids can the effort be successful! Is there a special wrench that might work?
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:28 PM   #2
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My hot water drain plug on my 2017 Forester 2861DS is plastic and after three removals to winterize and drain, the corners are worn off the 15/16 inch bolt head. The plug is shrouded by the gas lines and sharp metal baffles and only by patient wrench turning and accurate placement of bandaids can the effort be successful! Is there a special wrench that might work?
6 point socket.
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:41 PM   #3
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There is a plug kit I think I bought on eBay. It came with a nice offset wrench two new plugs and Teflon tape . not too costly
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Old 01-30-2018, 05:44 PM   #4
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Old 01-30-2018, 06:06 PM   #5
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I just use a socket and a short 3" extension you could get a swivel joint also.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:07 PM   #6
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I agree with above. Six point socket. Anything else rounds the corners.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:20 PM   #7
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I'd say if it has a plastic head as you mentioned I'd be going to and RV store and replace the rod that has a metal head so that you then can use a 6 point socket. Later RJD
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:25 PM   #8
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I replaced the plug with an adapter to a short piece of 1/2" tubing and a 1/4 turn valve. Draining is accomplished by simply opening the valve. Can post photo tomorrow.
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Old 01-31-2018, 08:37 AM   #9
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Nice little tool. Thanks
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:14 AM   #10
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I'd say if it has a plastic head as you mentioned I'd be going to and RV store and replace the rod that has a metal head so that you then can use a 6 point socket. Later RJD
If you're referring to the anode rod, the OP likely has an Atwood water heater which doesn't require one. Hence the use of a plastic plug instead.
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Old 01-31-2018, 09:21 AM   #11
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I replaced the plastic( Atwood) one with a brass petcock. Solved all the issues and made draining the WH a piece of cake. Got one for the Suburban WH in this rig with an anode on it for the same reasons
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:32 PM   #12
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A brass pipe plug will give tou longevity and does not rust or round the hex corners.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:57 PM   #13
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A little off topic but last year I removed the drain plug from my heater without releasing the pressure and it blew the door off my heater. Fortunately I was to the side and only lost some skin. I was surprised because I don't even use the trailer heater and had shut off valves on both the input and output side of the heater. The heater was cold. I have no idea how it got pressurized. We get smart by doing dumb things.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:00 PM   #14
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If you're referring to the anode rod, the OP likely has an Atwood water heater which doesn't require one. Hence the use of a plastic plug instead.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:03 PM   #15
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I replaced the plastic( Atwood) one with a brass petcock. Solved all the issues and made draining the WH a piece of cake. Got one for the Suburban WH in this rig with an anode on it for the same reasons
Please explain.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:09 PM   #16
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Appears Jeff is referring to two different rigs. Current one with Atwood and previous one with Suburban.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:19 PM   #17
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Appears Jeff is referring to two different rigs. Current one with Atwood and previous one with Suburban.
OK by "on it" I thought he had an rod with a valve attached. I was interested in that.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:40 PM   #18
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. We get smart by doing dumb things.
That which does not kill you makes you stronger. It also makes you a LOT smarter.

With all the scars on my body and healed broken bones you'd think by now, given the above, I'd be approaching "genius" status. Yet every day I find there's much to learn yet.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:40 PM   #19
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WH drain.

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I replaced the plug with an adapter to a short piece of 1/2" tubing and a 1/4 turn valve. Draining is accomplished by simply opening the valve. Can post photo tomorrow.
X2. I did the same and added an adapter to male hose thread so I can connect a hose. We can use it to fill a wash tub for doing dishes outside or to direct the flow. The water heater is located next to the door.
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Old 01-31-2018, 06:40 PM   #20
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The Atwood has a 1/2" pipe thread drain plastic plug,the Suburban has a 3/4" Pipe thread Steel plug/with A Rod! When/if you add/use/convert either one of these Plugs into a Valve draining system you have just created a "White Crud Buidup Dam"! The more "Adapters" you use the Smaller your Drain opening will be,and More "White Crud"! Your choice! Youroo!!
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