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Old 03-18-2019, 02:53 PM   #1
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Question Driving or parked level?

Searched, didn't see anything relative to this question ... When stopped the front end is low - Sunseeker 2300. So leveling usually has to be done (front needs to go up 2-3 inches). Consequently, as our motorhome is going down the road, the front is low. My air bags have 10 lbs. pressure, increasing bag pressure raises the rear presumably to help the suspension springs on a heavier load. . . My question; Is there a reason the front is low? As other vehicles on the road including RV's are relatively level. I understand there should be a small variance from level when parked for shower drain, rain runoff, etc. Is there a way to level the motorhome to start with? That would save some aggravation when parked on a level concrete pad or ground and still have to "level" the motorhome.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:00 PM   #2
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I have never heard that before, have you measured the frame on a flat surface so you know it's not an illusion. Even with air bags the frame should be level, maybe I'm wrong. If I am I'm sure a member will set me straight.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:14 PM   #3
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Just so the doctor doesnít feel neglected.....

Itís not that heís wrong, itís that heís not often right.

Just sayiní
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:36 PM   #4
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Geez, I always get a warm feeling when I read your posts,
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:02 PM   #5
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Are there any handling issues (wandering) at highway speeds.

Being nose down reduces the runtime +caster.

Ford ships all E350/E450 cut aways with identical fixed, non adjustable
caster/camber sleeves, "one size fits all".

The RV builder almost never changes the Ford sleeves, as a result:

If the final RV build is nose down one degree then the runtime caster will be about +3.5 degrees. These units can have a real wandering problem.

If the final RV build is nose level then the runtime caster will be about +4.5 degrees. These units are probably indifferent.

If the final RV build is nose up one degree then the runtime caster will be about +5.5 degrees. These units are probably just fine, possibly excepting the 31 footers.

So, some RVs have a problem and some do not have a problem. JMO.

POPULAR MECHANICS MAY 1973:
START QUOTE:
If too little caster exists, the car will wander and weave,
thus necessitating constant corrections in steering.
END QUOTE:
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:35 PM   #6
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I have never heard that before, have you measured the frame on a flat surface so you know it's not an illusion. Even with air bags the frame should be level, maybe I'm wrong. If I am I'm sure a member will set me straight.
I've not measured the frame to ground. Even so, the interior of the motor home leans forward (nose down). Don't know how to insert photos but I used a level on the frame & the floor, both are 3/4 bubble off. The rear wall outside. leans forward, again 3/4 of a bubble. It is definitely walking uphill from front to back ... It's been this way since I bought it new. Never gave it much thought ... I'm thinking it should be somewhat close to level. No "wandering" issues while driving ... It is a Chevrolet chassis. What say you?
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Old 03-18-2019, 08:28 PM   #7
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... It is a Chevrolet chassis. What say you?
duh ... but still interesting to know the difference.
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Old 03-18-2019, 10:16 PM   #8
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Chevys do tend to have a low front end. Ours is the same, but it drives very nice, so I won't change it. It does take more blocks under the front tires to level when parked, thus I tend to find spots that raise the nose if possible.
If you observe other vehicles such as ambulances & school busses on Chevy/GMC, they all run nose low.

The fridge is the only thing that is sensitive to level, but only when parked. Yet, the fridge tolerates 6 degrees front to back (door to condenser), and 3 - 4 degrees side to side. The Chevy chassis has a 1 to 2 degree slope, so the fridge is fine while parked on a level surface.

It looks odd, especially compared to other chassis, but that's the way it is.
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:33 AM   #9
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Chevys do tend to have a low front end. Ours is the same, but it drives very nice, so I won't change it. It does take more blocks under the front tires to level when parked, thus I tend to find spots that raise the nose if possible.
If you observe other vehicles such as ambulances & school busses on Chevy/GMC, they all run nose low.

The fridge is the only thing that is sensitive to level, but only when parked. Yet, the fridge tolerates 6 degrees front to back (door to condenser), and 3 - 4 degrees side to side. The Chevy chassis has a 1 to 2 degree slope, so the fridge is fine while parked on a level surface.

It looks odd, especially compared to other chassis, but that's the way it is.
You know I have a Chevy chassis, and I have never noticed that the front end was lower, looks pretty much the same front and back when on level ground, my unit is in my sloped driveway right now so I can't check, if it is it certainly never bothered me, and it drives fine, all I did was add a steering damper from etrailer mostly for front blowouts and it helps my wife to stop over steering. I never had a problem, but she did. Now no problem for her.
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:52 AM   #10
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One thing I have read on this thread is that adjusting the castors can raise or lower the front end height. Did I read that right? I googled what adjusting a castor does, I at least couldn't find that, but I know nothing about cars or trucks, I leave that up to my mechanic. But found that interesting to read if it's correct, like I said I have not found that, maybe someone can point me in the right direction to find that..interesting point.
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:57 AM   #11
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Caster is: The fore or aft slope of the steering axis. The steering axis is a line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints of the knuckle. Positive caster is when the bottom of the steering axis line is in front of the tire's contact patch. Zero caster is when the steering axis is at 0 degrees.


Here's one reference to front-end geometry:

https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...article-37.htm

Caster, camber, toe do not affect ride height. Caster does affect how quickly the wheel returns to center and also affects side to side pull. For example, our Sunseeker pulled a bit to the right, so I added a bit more caster on the right. Now it holds a good center line, depending on the road surface. Adjusting camber also affects toe if both the front and back of the A arm are not adjusted by a complementary amount.
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:28 AM   #12
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Thanks, that is what I thought, that casters adjustment do not add or take away height. Thanks, I knew it had to do with toe in and tow out, for some reason I read in my own mind that it would raise or lower the front end height. Thanks for all that info...
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Old 03-19-2019, 01:01 PM   #13
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Does this truck, van chassis have 'torsion bar' suspension? If so, some of the ride height can be adjusted through the torsion bars. If that is the case, it will need an alignment afterwards. ? And, it may ride 'tail high' for the supposed load to go in the back.
My 3500 Duramax Crew 8' bed rode tail high, until the '12 Sanibel 3500 was hooked up to it, then it was level.
Otherwise, you're running 'downhill' all the time, should get better fuel mileage. lol
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Old 03-19-2019, 01:50 PM   #14
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My E450 C is a bit (just under two inches IIRC) nose down (checking level on the house floor). Of course, I have a 25' bumper to bumper class C, which is really underweight for the E450, so there is a large amount of rear travel left, as well as a HUGE CCC.

Loaded full on last long trip, towing, we are at 4k/8.5k (f/r axle), so we still had 2k (not a typo) of CCC left over...

For our next long trip, we are adding about 400lbs to the rear axle weight, and maybe 100 to the front. The only caveat of our setup (small house on E450) was the ride when not loaded, until we changed to Koni FSD shocks.
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:07 PM   #15
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I have a Forester 2251 on Chevie chassis. always drive the front on blocks to level. I'm not sure about Fords but I believe all C's ride loer int the front.
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Old 03-19-2019, 05:32 PM   #16
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Thx brucemc, we live and learn every day.
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Old 03-19-2019, 07:48 PM   #17
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We have 2013 SS 2300 and the front end is lower. I had to always level at campsites with at least 2 or 3 blocks. After a year of that, we drove up to the Big Foot factory and has automatic leveling installed. Best mod we have ever made and well worth the dollars.
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Old 03-20-2019, 02:09 AM   #18
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We have 2013 SS 2300 and the front end is lower. I had to always level at campsites with at least 2 or 3 blocks. After a year of that, we drove up to the Big Foot factory and has automatic leveling installed. Best mod we have ever made and well worth the dollars.
Yes, I'm sold on big foot, works well and very dependable system. I will not own another TT, 5er or M/H without auto level being installed, you get spoiled. A lot of systems out there, use to have a 6 point by lippert, worked well but complemcated. Big Foot is easy, but it can't be used in all applications.
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Old 03-25-2019, 09:01 AM   #19
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2300 chevy, nose down, bigfoot, 75 psi in bags... all is well.
We are rolling at this moment with DW at the helm.
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Old 03-25-2019, 01:38 PM   #20
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2300 chevy, nose down, bigfoot, 75 psi in bags... all is well.
We are rolling at this moment with DW at the helm.
Have a safe and blessed trip!
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