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Old 05-14-2018, 07:23 PM   #1
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External Gaps / Cracks - Potential Leaks

I have a 2016 Forester 3051S with gaps / cracks near the driver's side rear corner. The first picture shows a gap just above the the rear horizontal molding just above the license plate. The second picture shows cracks where the corner molding is attached to outside edge of the rear cap. (don't know how to rotate the pic.) As you can see, we have full body paint on this motor home.

I am interested in hearing your thoughts on how I should make these repairs. I think that I have previously attempted to close the gap on the horizontal molding here and elsewhere with clear silicone caulking, although it has not proven to be a good long term repair. I have not yet attempted a repair to on the rear cap.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:28 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyeats View Post
I have a 2016 Forester 3051S with gaps / cracks near the driver's side rear corner. The first picture shows a gap just above the the rear horizontal molding just above the license plate. The second picture shows cracks where the corner molding is attached to outside edge of the rear cap. (don't know how to rotate the pic.) As you can see, we have full body paint on this motor home.

I am interested in hearing your thoughts on how I should make these repairs. I think that I have previously attempted to close the gap on the horizontal molding here and elsewhere with clear silicone caulking, although it has not proven to be a good long term repair. I have not yet attempted a repair to on the rear cap.
Do not use silicone on the outside of your rig. It doesn't last long and nothing else will stick to it especially paint. Use non-silicone based caulking.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:30 PM   #3
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I have the same cracks on my painted Forester. Struggling with same question. As stated silicone does not prove to be a long term repair. I am thinking colored exterior window caulk.
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:40 PM   #4
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I have the same cracks on my painted Forester. Struggling with same question. As stated silicone does not prove to be a long term repair. I am thinking colored exterior window caulk.
Check with your RV repair/supply house. I sure someone will jump in here soon. There are many different types. You can't use the Dicore self-leveling as it won't stay in place on a vertical surface..
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Old 05-14-2018, 07:51 PM   #5
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I suggest you use one or more of these Dicor sealants. They are non-sag.
551LSB 10.3 oz. tube Black New!
551LSD 10.3 oz. tube Dove (Bright White)
551LSG 10.3 oz. tube Grey
551LST 10.3 oz. tube Tan
551LSV 10.3 oz. tube Ivory
551LSW 10.3 oz. tube White
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Old 05-14-2018, 09:41 PM   #6
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This sounds very promising. Are the colors that you mention matching colors to the Forester Full Body Paints?
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Old 05-15-2018, 04:19 AM   #7
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Colors will be close. Thay usually have a tan, dark brown, cream, etc
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:05 AM   #8
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I'd either try Dicor No-Sag or some of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V...QW1HNWN8BZXFVS
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:22 AM   #9
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Saw it recommended in another thread and used Geocel Proflex on my Forester a year and half ago. Looks like new now. I used the clear so I have a couple minor spots where painted caulk peeled and color doesn’t match. You need to apply and smooth quickly. It sets up pretty quick and is a sticky mess. Found it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F...op_mb_pd_title
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Old 05-15-2018, 09:52 PM   #10
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Saw it recommended in another thread and used Geocel Proflex on my Forester a year and half ago. Looks like new now. I used the clear so I have a couple minor spots where painted caulk peeled and color doesn’t match. You need to apply and smooth quickly. It sets up pretty quick and is a sticky mess. Found it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F...op_mb_pd_title
X2.

Mask off the areas to be caulked so that you don't leave a mess.
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Old 05-15-2018, 11:50 PM   #11
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It sounds to me like the ProFlex RV Sealant will work well on the horizontal molding.

However, I'm concerned about the crack on the edge of the rear cap. It seems to me that the crack in the paint may be developing because the molding is separating from the cap.

If that is the case, is a sealant a repair technique, or just a band aid? How do I figure out what is really going on?
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:26 AM   #12
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Take a lightweight box, bolt it to a truck chassis, then hurdle down our ultra smooth higways exposing the box to gale force winds. It’s going to cause seams to separate, screws to fall out, paint to crack and fiberglass to bend. Keep it sealed to prevent water from getting in. Water will destroy an RV from the inside out. It’s the nature of the beast.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wandering View Post
Saw it recommended in another thread and used Geocel Proflex on my Forester a year and half ago. Looks like new now. I used the clear so I have a couple minor spots where painted caulk peeled and color doesn’t match. You need to apply and smooth quickly. It sets up pretty quick and is a sticky mess. Found it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F...op_mb_pd_title
X2

If you need to smooth the Proflex out, wet your fingers first and keep dipping them in water. The only place I'd use silicone bathtub caulk is in a bath. Silicone is a bugger to remove and get a clean enough surface to put the right stuff on. ie. plastic scrapers, mineral spirits, rubbing alcohol and plenty of elbow grease!
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