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Old 09-23-2016, 04:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by newRVer View Post
Now here is an interesting question. Is there anyway to use this same compressor to fill air in the tires? If so, then it might be worth looking at as then I would not need two compressors. (one dedicated to the air bags and one portable for the tires)
If you used one of the 'heavy duty' kits you could probably pull that off, they include a much beefier compressor. This little guy I wouldn't try it. I carry a Vair pump that does a stellar job with tires...
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:01 AM   #22
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NewRV, the OP can weigh in, but my thoughts are, it takes a pretty beefy 12v compressor to do tires in a timely manner, but yes you could. If you go to a 110v cmprssr to get the volume for tires, you can't do the bag quick adjust at the pump.
That's currently what I am doing. I carry a 1.5 gallon 110V compressor and check tires/bags before every trip. Tire pressure so far is not an issue but the air bags are losing about 5 lbs every 5-7 days which means I have to top them off before every trip. At some point I will get under the rig to check fittings. etc. and the valves are a pain to connect too because they don't come through the bay wall far enough.
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Old 09-24-2016, 11:07 AM   #23
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NewRV, my passenger side valve wasnt far enough through either. I removed the nut, pulled it out of the hole and removed the washer from the back side. Sticks through far enough now and the valve is tight in the hole. Dealer fixed a leak on my pax side at the top of the bag and it holds for a couple of weeks. Can't wait for some free time to do this mod.
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Old 09-25-2016, 04:16 PM   #24
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NewRV, my passenger side valve wasnt far enough through either. I removed the nut, pulled it out of the hole and removed the washer from the back side. Sticks through far enough now and the valve is tight in the hole. Dealer fixed a leak on my pax side at the top of the bag and it holds for a couple of weeks. Can't wait for some free time to do this mod.
Pulling the valve stems further through the wall is on the to-do list. That will probably get fixed the same time I get under there and check the airbag for leaks.
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Old 09-26-2016, 05:32 PM   #25
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If you connect the compressor output to a T with each end of the t going to a airbag you will create an unsafe system. When you go around a curve / corner the unit will lean to the outside of curve. This will compress the outside bag forcing the air in that bag to the inside bag causing it to expand and further lift the inside, increasing weight transfer to outside bag further compressing it and forcing more air to inside bag .....
This will greatly increase body roll and could cause a very unstable vehicle, that is why the factory does not use a common supply point for the air bags

just sayin
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:49 PM   #26
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From the ride rite installation guide.
"Your kit includes separate inflation valves and air lines for each air helper spring. This will allow you to level your vehicle from side to side as well as from front to back. If you would rather have a single valve inflation system, your dealer can supply the required "T" fitting."
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:06 PM   #27
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If you connect the compressor output to a T with each end of the t going to a airbag you will create an unsafe system. When you go around a curve / corner the unit will lean to the outside of curve. This will compress the outside bag forcing the air in that bag to the inside bag causing it to expand and further lift the inside, increasing weight transfer to outside bag further compressing it and forcing more air to inside bag .....
This will greatly increase body roll and could cause a very unstable vehicle, that is why the factory does not use a common supply point for the air bags

just sayin
The primary benefit of having separate paths for the 2 sides is ability to adjust for uneven weight side to side. In cornering you will transfer some air & pressure from side to side, but you aren't adding any pressure to the system. The scenario you describe of increasing lean by increasing high side pressure isn't going to happen.

Having separate supply lines, preventing the transfer of air, does provide a slight advantage in cornering but far less than something like upgraded shocks or sway bars.
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Old 10-21-2016, 01:05 AM   #28
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I just got my Wireless Air 72000 system installed and I sent off for the $75 rebate. If you're considering adding this to your RV you can save some money if you purchase by October 31 and you can send in for the rebate by the end of November.

This was a fairly easy install even for a less than automotive savvy guy like me.

I followed your idea Vajeep for the install location and wiring. The wire run to the engine compartment and fuse box would have been a lot more work.

The directions say to wire it to an ignition powered auxiliary fuse which I believe means it would only be powered when the key is turned in the ignition. But by wiring it to the power convertor doesn't that mean it's powered at all times and if that's the case is that a problem?

Did you wire an extra switch to be able to power it on and off? Or does it matter that it's powered at all times? It seems like it would run anytime, even when sitting at a campsite and overnight if it needs topping off. My airbags eventually lose a little air but maybe not as much as I think. Maybe it's not an issue but I need help understanding if wiring it to the convertor is an issue.
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Old 10-21-2016, 07:58 AM   #29
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The directions say to wire it to an ignition powered auxiliary fuse which I believe means it would only be powered when the key is turned in the ignition. But by wiring it to the power convertor doesn't that mean it's powered at all times and if that's the case is that a problem?

Did you wire an extra switch to be able to power it on and off? Or does it matter that it's powered at all times? It seems like it would run anytime, even when sitting at a campsite and overnight if it needs topping off. My airbags eventually lose a little air but maybe not as much as I think. Maybe it's not an issue but I need help understanding if wiring it to the convertor is an issue.
So on the switch module there are actually 2 things that call for power- the switch itself that controls the compressor, and the light that illuminates the pressure gauge. I don't care about having the light working, but I do want to be able to run the compressor without having the ignition turned on. Gas station, while I'm filling freshwater, at the dump station, etc.

If you wired in the light, you'd of course not want it to be on all of the time, but if you left that out as I did then having constant power to the switch is fine. Preferable even.
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Old 10-21-2016, 11:52 AM   #30
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I have mine powered with the ignition switch...don't need it coming on while camping..especially while I'm sleeping
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:57 AM   #31
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Powered mine at motorhome fuse box,empty slot. Put switch beside box. Havent seen much air loss since I installed and redid all connections,gauges in the stairwell as well as deflator and pump switch
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:00 PM   #32
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Thanks vajeep for the explanation. It's what I suspected, that it's powered all the time going off the convertor. We camped this weekend for the first time since I installed Wireless Air and I didn't notice the compressor come on once while at the campsite. I was afraid it would go off overnight and wake us up.

I did drop the pressure to 40 while at the campsite instead of the 80 or so that I run when driving. I really like having it and feel like this was a good addition to my RV. Thanks for the info everyone!
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