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11-17-2020, 03:34 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 27
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Fresh Water tank drain 2850 Sunseeker
I am a newbie, just returned from trip down south (warm) back home to Upstate NY (cold). Looking to do quick drain on fresh water tank. Anyone know where low point drain is? Fresh water tank is under queen bed in rear.
Many thanks and many more questions coming! Hope everyone is staying safe.
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11-17-2020, 05:15 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: x
Posts: 12,423
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Welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. Seems you are talking about two different things. Low point drains are associated with your potable water piping and to drain the potable water tank you use the tank drain with may have a valve under the bed or under the rig in the area of the tank you will have to do some investigation.
__________________
Retired Navy
Jake my sidekick (yellow Lab) 10/04 - 05/20
2017 RAM 2500 CC 4X4 Cummins Diesel
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11-18-2020, 10:58 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 494
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You should have three drains; one for the tank and two for the low points, hot and cold.
The tank drain is near the tank, accessible via the rear storage compartment. This image is looking down into the area containing the tank; you can see the backside of the portal. The tank drain is on the left, the winterizing valve on the right:
On our 2250 Sunseeker, the low point drains are just aft of the side door:
(apologies for the fuzzy image)
I posted my winterizing process on RV.net, FYI:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f...3.cfm#30163833
Hope that helps!
__________________
2016 Sunseeker 2250LE/Chevy
Formerly: 2000 Four Winds 26Q/Ford, '96 Kit Sportsmaster 22' 5th wheel, '91 Sunlite truck camper, Wildernest flip-top canopy
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11-18-2020, 02:35 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 27
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Thanks much Brucemc. I was not aware of multiple drain points (can you say NEWBIE!) as Seadog also mentioned. I appreciate your reply and pics.
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11-19-2020, 12:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 494
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We were all newbies at one time or another! Glad to help.
I meant to mention the location of your tank and access to the drain may (and probably will be) different than mine as you have the 2850 whereas I have a 2250.
There's as many ways to winterize as there are people. We all have our processes, and some folks methods are not acceptable to others. What's important is what works for you.
BTW, I have many pics of our Sunseeker projects, as well as travels on my photo hosting site: https://pbase.com/brucemac/2015octsunseeker .
Enjoy your Sunseeker!
__________________
2016 Sunseeker 2250LE/Chevy
Formerly: 2000 Four Winds 26Q/Ford, '96 Kit Sportsmaster 22' 5th wheel, '91 Sunlite truck camper, Wildernest flip-top canopy
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11-19-2020, 03:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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If you have 2 basement doors behind the right rear tire, the low point drains would be in the compartment directly behind the wheel well. There is a removable panel at the back of the storage that conceals the pump and filters. If you look under the coach at this location, you should see blue and red PEX pipes extending from underneath. Ours had caps. I placed valves inside the compartment to avoid crawling under the camper.I also added a winterizing fitting (brass fitting on the left side of photo.
Though you have not asked, being a newbie, there are hot water heater bypass valves that need to be turned if you are winterizing using RV antifreeze. These valved are exposed from the interior under the kitchen sink. On ours, the cabinet door was opened and the cabinet floor was elevated. There is a finished plywood panel that had to be removed to expose the valves. In FR's wisdom, the panel was in there permanently. It can carefully be removed without damage, but a pain none-the -less. The hot water tank is drained from the outside by removing the anode rod. I believe that takes a 3/4" socket.
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11-19-2020, 05:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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Anode rod
Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe
The hot water tank is drained from the outside by removing the anode rod. I believe that takes a 3/4" socket.
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If it is a Suburban water heater, it takes a 1-1/16" socket. (The threads are 3/4" IP, which may be what you were thinking of.)
Don't forget to wrap some Teflon tape on the threads when you put the rod back.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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11-19-2020, 05:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
If it is a Suburban water heater, it takes a 1-1/16" socket. (The threads are 3/4" IP, which may be what you were thinking of.)
Don't forget to wrap some Teflon tape on the threads when you put the rod back.
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Stand corrected. Thanks.
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11-26-2020, 01:12 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 97
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There are a number of threads on winterizing Sunseekers. We are picking up a 2021 2860DS tomorrow. It is likely we will be going into and out of warm weather from below freezing weather many times over the winter.
Am I covered if I follow the “compressed air at 30 psi” method from the manual?
Have you found a lightweight 120v compressor powerful enough to bring along and do the job, but no heavier nor larger than necessary?
https://forestriverinc.help/#/forest...4-A12295F46267
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