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Old 05-11-2013, 06:30 PM   #1
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Fridge Temp at 29 degrees tops

Anybody have trouble with the Dometic fridge in their unit cooling too much? Mine will not get above 29 degrees. I have tried every remedy I have found on the internet. Slid the sensor all the way down as much as possible to the "warmer" section, moved it over to the left a couple of fins, put a fridge fan in there and so on. The thermometer is placed in the middle of the fridge. It starts building ice on the fins after 36 hours or so. After a couple of weeks the fridge and freezer have a nice chunk of ice in them. The gaskets seem to be sealing as good as can be. Enough to create a good vacuum. I used to only have to defrost these things every 6 months or so, now it's every couple of weeks. The motorhome is indoors on a level slab always hooked up to the electric. Any ideas? I'm about ready to trash it and put a residential and inverter in.
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:20 PM   #2
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I had this problem earlier this year it is a real pain as I have to keep my insulin in it, It did start to work ok eventually after doing all the same things you have done.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:11 PM   #3
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I'm doing some more testing, adjustments today, so we'll see if anything changes. In every RV we've owned, I've left the fridge on from purchase date to sale, with the exception of the occasional defrost. I've gotten so aggravated with this one, I was about to start shutting it off after ever trip to keep from having to defrost so much ice. I can imagine you were a bit aggravated, especially when medication is involved, and not knowing what the temp is going to do.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:40 PM   #4
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Anybody have trouble with the Dometic fridge in their unit cooling too much? Mine will not get above 29 degrees. I have tried every remedy I have found on the internet. Slid the sensor all the way down as much as possible to the "warmer" section, moved it over to the left a couple of fins, put a fridge fan in there and so on. The thermometer is placed in the middle of the fridge. It starts building ice on the fins after 36 hours or so. After a couple of weeks the fridge and freezer have a nice chunk of ice in them. The gaskets seem to be sealing as good as can be. Enough to create a good vacuum. I used to only have to defrost these things every 6 months or so, now it's every couple of weeks. The motorhome is indoors on a level slab always hooked up to the electric. Any ideas? I'm about ready to trash it and put a residential and inverter in.
Learned last winter quickest way to defrost is with a good hair dryer. 10 minutes for fridge, next day 10 minutes in freezer. Gaskets are important so is infrequent opening the doors, that's the source of frost. Dryer much quicker than any other method. Chiller drains will carry it away quickly, hand towel works in freezer while melting.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:46 PM   #5
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VinceU, pretty much same way I defrost. Pack a towel in the freezer, also one in the fridge, hair dryer on "cool"setting since the extreme heat can damage some things. I also put rags or small towels under the fridge, outside panel removed as not everything makes it in the drain pan and out the tube. Some how it gets out between the fins and plastic and runs down the back of the fridge. Not a lot, just enough to be aggravating. Most every one I've had has done this.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #6
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VinceU, pretty much same way I defrost. Pack a towel in the freezer, also one in the fridge, hair dryer on "cool"setting since the extreme heat can damage some things. I also put rags or small towels under the fridge, outside panel removed as not everything makes it in the drain pan and out the tube. Some how it gets out between the fins and plastic and runs down the back of the fridge. Not a lot, just enough to be aggravating. Most every one I've had has done this.
Darn, and I was going to add "inventor" to my masthead! But more seriously I'm thinking the thermistor or the main PCB is bad telling the fridge heaters to keep going, haven't reached set point yet. To prove it put the gas burner on instead of electric. See if it shuts off while on gas, and box temp if it does.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:07 PM   #7
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Could be that the thermistor has gone bad or a bad control board. I see your Forester is new. Is it time for a trip to the dealer?
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:10 PM   #8
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I agree with Vince that it could be a bad thermistor but when I had a thermistor go bad on my boat the temp got hot. Anyway, I came across this troubleshooting guide the Dometic units. Maybe it will be of some help. Good Luck... Don

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/newd...atormanual.pdf
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:33 PM   #9
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I would go to the dealer, but I've managed to stay away from them at all costs over the years. I've never found a real good one that did things like I wanted, or didn't fix one thing and break two more things. Shame on me for being a perfectionist. I did bring it up to Indiana for a few fixes on the slideout and some other issues. I wanted to tour the factory and get stuff done by FR, kill two birds with one stone. The RV is new, purchased in January. However, even if it costs me a little, I'd rather fix it myself. I can't even count how many things I've redone on this motorhome to bring it up to our standards I've learned pretty much how to be my own Rv Tech through the forums, experience and school of hard knox. Can't beat the forums, as shown in this thread, I have opinions and answers within a couple of hours. Can't get that at a dealer. I haven't left my easy chair. Since I don't have much experience with the refrigerators, since I've never had a problem, I've turned to yall, which have given some good feedback. Thermistor or PCB, narrowed down enough to get somewhere. Thanks to all and I'm still open to any other comments.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:42 PM   #10
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Big John, I usually have a saying, "It only costs me a little bit more to do it myself!" but I agree with you when it comes to what I have seen in my short TT experience. The link I sent is very detailed. I guess the first thing I would check is to make sure the thermistor wires are connected or have been stripped before they were screwed down into the connector.
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:50 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BigJohnD View Post
I would go to the dealer, but I've managed to stay away from them at all costs over the years. I've never found a real good one that did things like I wanted, or didn't fix one thing and break two more things. Shame on me for being a perfectionist. I did bring it up to Indiana for a few fixes on the slideout and some other issues. I wanted to tour the factory and get stuff done by FR, kill two birds with one stone. The RV is new, purchased in January. However, even if it costs me a little, I'd rather fix it myself. I can't even count how many things I've redone on this motorhome to bring it up to our standards I've learned pretty much how to be my own Rv Tech through the forums, experience and school of hard knox. Can't beat the forums, as shown in this thread, I have opinions and answers within a couple of hours. Can't get that at a dealer. I haven't left my easy chair. Since I don't have much experience with the refrigerators, since I've never had a problem, I've turned to yall, which have given some good feedback. Thermistor or PCB, narrowed down enough to get somewhere. Thanks to all and I'm still open to any other comments.
BigJohn, your are my kinda man. I too go to the dealer as a last resort. Have had my coach for almost a year and they have not touched it other than to fix a rubbing AC fan. Done this because I was passing right by the dealership.

In your endeavor to fix this, you may want to look here. This seems to be a good alternative to the original thermistor. They have the boards also.

Dometic Thermistor Repair Kit
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Old 05-12-2013, 11:33 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by BigJohnD
I would go to the dealer, but I've managed to stay away from them at all costs over the years. I've never found a real good one that did things like I wanted, or didn't fix one thing and break two more things. Shame on me for being a perfectionist. I did bring it up to Indiana for a few fixes on the slideout and some other issues. I wanted to tour the factory and get stuff done by FR, kill two birds with one stone. The RV is new, purchased in January. However, even if it costs me a little, I'd rather fix it myself. I can't even count how many things I've redone on this motorhome to bring it up to our standards I've learned pretty much how to be my own Rv Tech through the forums, experience and school of hard knox. Can't beat the forums, as shown in this thread, I have opinions and answers within a couple of hours. Can't get that at a dealer. I haven't left my easy chair. Since I don't have much experience with the refrigerators, since I've never had a problem, I've turned to yall, which have given some good feedback. Thermistor or PCB, narrowed down enough to get somewhere. Thanks to all and I'm still open to any other comments.
Agreed, I used a dometic dealer who can be a HVAC shop familiar w/RV stuff. Remove a 200# box was was outside my workscope!
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #13
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I agree with Vince that it could be a bad thermistor but when I had a thermistor go bad on my boat the temp got hot. Anyway, I came across this troubleshooting guide the Dometic units. Maybe it will be of some help. Good Luck... Don

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/newd...atormanual.pdf
Why oh why can't Dometic put a simple photo and information in their manual about the Thermosistor (sp)?

Yes they mention it in section 5, but that pertains to testing it.

I for one was never told about this feature until we brought our FW back to the dealer and the service manager told me " all you have to do is push this thing up so it touches the freezer bottom".
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:15 PM   #14
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Why oh why can't Dometic put a simple photo and information in their manual about the Thermosistor (sp)?

Yes they mention it in section 5, but that pertains to testing it.

I for one was never told about this feature until we brought our FW back to the dealer and the service manager told me " all you have to do is push this thing up so it touches the freezer bottom".


B47, read further...Section 5.2 states:
Disconnect the thermistor harness from the P2, 2-pin ter- minal on the lower circuit board. Place the thermistor in a glass of ice water (more ice than water), approximately 33° F to 35° F. Wait 8 to 10 minutes. You should get a reading of approximately 8,000 to 10,000 ohms. Always test from the wire side as shown with the meter as not to
create a connection problem at the P2 connector.

It even shows the location of the connector..
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Old 05-12-2013, 12:19 PM   #15
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B47, read further...Section 5.2 states:
Disconnect the thermistor harness from the P2, 2-pin ter- minal on the lower circuit board. Place the thermistor in a glass of ice water (more ice than water), approximately 33° F to 35° F. Wait 8 to 10 minutes. You should get a reading of approximately 8,000 to 10,000 ohms. Always test from the wire side as shown with the meter as not to
create a connection problem at the P2 connector.

It even shows the location of the connector..
Yes I mentioned that, but it only pertains to testing it. A person shouldn't have to test it before knowing what it does and where it is and looks like.

Just a simple photo and explanation of it, similar to the control panel, would suffice for me.
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:47 PM   #16
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We have the opposite problem.

Our freezer does a great job at keeping things frozen.

But our fridge is a little warmer than I'd like. We have one of those cheap thermometers and during the day it gets to the top of the "ok" temp band. We really try to limit door openings and do it very quickly. The temp adjuster is all the way to the cold section. What is this trick of moving to another fin? It's on the right side now. Can moving it to a different fin make it even colder?

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:32 PM   #17
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We have the opposite problem.

Our freezer does a great job at keeping things frozen.

But our fridge is a little warmer than I'd like. We have one of those cheap thermometers and during the day it gets to the top of the "ok" temp band. We really try to limit door openings and do it very quickly. The temp adjuster is all the way to the cold section. What is this trick of moving to another fin? It's on the right side now. Can moving it to a different fin make it even colder?

Thanks!
Not sure as ours is working ok with it on the far right fin as you look into the fridge and I think that is where it lays has been.

Some other posters here have mentioned doing it.

One thing - don't waste your time looking in the manual for any information about the placement of it - there ain't any
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:21 PM   #18
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BigJohn, my fridge does the same thing. I think its just normal for that unit. The tube attached to the plate that slides up and down the fins seems like a silly design. My fridge freezes everything overnight. I've slid the thing up and down, and moved the tube up and down. I miss the temp selector switch on my old Norcold. Just keep putting warm cans of beer in it to raise the temp.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:35 PM   #19
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Not sure as ours is working ok with it on the far right fin as you look into the fridge and I think that is where it lays has been.

Some other posters here have mentioned doing it.

One thing - don't waste your time looking in the manual for any information about the placement of it - there ain't any
B47 I have to agree with you, I had 3 different Dometic fridges with the slide, by the time I learned to use it properly I ended up with the 5 step digital control in my present unit! Its true you need to keep the doors closed, all these units use lots of energy but they are not terribly efficient when compared to compressor cycles.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #20
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We have the opposite problem.

Our freezer does a great job at keeping things frozen.

But our fridge is a little warmer than I'd like. We have one of those cheap thermometers and during the day it gets to the top of the "ok" temp band. We really try to limit door openings and do it very quickly. The temp adjuster is all the way to the cold section. What is this trick of moving to another fin? It's on the right side now. Can moving it to a different fin make it even colder?

Thanks!
Paul, I read in another forum that the fins get colder from right to left. I'm not sure how to say this but if the far right fin warmest temp is too cold it may signal to maintain too low of a temp. It won't hurt to move the thermostat assy to the next fin over and see if it has any effect.

You don't mention your model. Number but I assume it has the white plastic slider with the thermostat shoved inside. Just slide it off the fin and put it on the fin next to it and see what happens.
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