Hot Water Heater Troubles

Geri · 03-28-2013, 06:19 PM

When we received our RV from the dealer there was water in the water tank and the heater. On our first trip last fall, I noticed that turning on the water heater always ignited the burner. On return I called the dealer and he told me of a hidden switch that need to be turned on. I found it, assumed that that was the problem, and promptly stored the RV for the winter. Now with Spring, we've set off on a cross-country trip and - still the same problem with the switch in either position. Any ideas on something that I'm still not on to, or do I have to seek a warranty repair - a most disruptive addition to my trip.

TURBS · 03-28-2013, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geri

When we received our RV from the dealer there was water in the water tank and the heater. On our first trip last fall, I noticed that turning on the water heater always ignited the burner. On return I called the dealer and he told me of a hidden switch that need to be turned on. I found it, assumed that that was the problem, and promptly stored the RV for the winter. Now with Spring, we've set off on a cross-country trip and - still the same problem with the switch in either position. Any ideas on something that I'm still not on to, or do I have to seek a warranty repair - a most disruptive addition to my trip.

Switch inside is for gas only.
Switch outside is for electric only.

U can run both at the same time or one or the other independently

Turbs

awwall · 03-28-2013, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Switch inside is for gas only.
Switch outside is for electric only.

U can run both at the same time or one or the other independently

Turbs

Or turn them both off. Which is what it sounds like he wants to do.

TURBS · 03-28-2013, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awwall

Or turn them both off. Which is what it sounds like he wants to do.

Right

Dave_Monica · 03-28-2013, 06:43 PM

The water heater switch in the control panel (along with the water pump) only controls the propane side of the WH. If you want to run it on electric leave that switch off and have the small switch inside the water heater switched on along with dedicated breaker in the power center. You can run the WH on propane and electric at the same time should you want maximum recovery.

Dave

**Herk7769** · 03-28-2013, 06:44 PM

I am thinking he left the switch on when he drained the tank for the winter.
We all know what that means...

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TURBS · 03-28-2013, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

I am thinking he left the switch on when he drained the tank for the winter.
We all know what that means...

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Roger that.
I was thinking it u said it.

**wmtire** · 03-28-2013, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Roger that.
I was thinking it u said it.

X3. I was thinking they will need to replace the electric heating element now, as it is most likely burned out if they plugged in the trailer with no water in the water heater...and read ya's post.

Maybe this will help the OP, as it got posted to the FAQ section the other day:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post327989

**wmtire** · 03-28-2013, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geri

I noticed that turning on the water heater always ignited the burner. On return I called the dealer and he told me of a hidden switch that need to be turned on. I found it, assumed that that was the problem, and promptly stored the RV for the winter. Now with Spring, we've set off on a cross-country trip and - still the same problem with the switch in either position. Any ideas on something that I'm still not on to, or do I have to seek a warranty repair - a most disruptive addition to my trip.

As stated, your water heater can run off of propane or electricity (it has an electric heating element inside the tank), or both at the same time. They are two different systems, independent of one another.

When you turn on the switch in the inside of your trailer, you are turning on the DSI/propane function of your water heater, and since the water is cold, it is going to immediately turn the propane burners on and heat the water up till it gets to it's preset temperature....then will automatically turn off. This on/off switch is doing exactly what it's supposed to do. As long as you leave the inside switch on, everytime the water temperature inside the heater drops enough, the burners will light up and heat the water again. Works like your water heater at home. If you don't want your water heater to run off of propane, then just leave the switch off inside the trailer, or turn it off after you heat a tank of water. Also turn it off, when breaking camp.

The outside switch on the front of the water heater is to turn on the electrical heating element inside the tank...which only works off 120 volt electricity and you have to be plugged into shore power for this part to work. You ALWAYS have to have water inside the tank before turning this switch on or you instantly burn up the water heaters electric heating element. You can then only run the water heater off of propane till you replace the heating element. Sometimes when this heating element is burned out, it will trip breakers inside your camper. Keep the switch turned off when breaking/setting up camp and only turn it on when there is water in the tank. I have a feeling you may have already burned out the heating element, so keep this switch in the off position till you get where you can check it out.

The mistake that many campers make is to leave the outside heating element switch turned on when unplugging from shore power, and then drain the tank. As soon as you hook up to shore power again (like at home), since you have left the switch turned on, the heating element comes on and immediately burns itself out without any water in the tank.

The reason you have these two different modes of water heating available depends on your camping situation. If you are at a campground with full electrical hookups, you can always just use the electrical heating element side of things.

Now if you are boondocking, or somewhere with no electrical...you can still have hot water using the propane side.

Even with electricity, you could still use the propane with the heating element (both switches turned to on) and get hot water faster if you are using a lot quickly. You could also just use the propane side (propane switch turned on, heating element switch turned off), and save some electrical amps for other things. The electrical heating element does use a few amps, and will sometimes throw your campers breaker when using the heating element and air-conditioner, and/or other things at the same time....if your camper is of the 30 amp variety.

If you don't need hot water (using campground showers, etc.), just keep the inside and outside switches turned off.

Oaklevel · 03-28-2013, 07:53 PM

This should not ruin your trip ....keep in mind the duel electric / gas water heaters are relatively new on the RV front..... In the past the water heaters were only gas, you still have that option........... just use it on gas.

Our 2013 Puma is the first camper we have owned with the duel option & truefully, I keep forgetting about it and end up running the water heater just on gas anyway. Just run it on gas (it does not use that much).... If you are not sure on how to check the element out & replace it.....you can deal with it when you get home again...

Geri · 03-29-2013, 04:53 PM

Oh!!! Many thanks to all for pointing out that I don't know what I'm doing. That I do know. Our last RV had a turn-on water heater and electricity heats or, if none, propane works; like the fridge. I'm embarrassed but thankful. I did know about the don't turn on heater unless water is in tank; so didn't ( I don't think). I'll try electrical heated water this evening.

**wmtire** · 03-29-2013, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geri

I'm embarrassed but thankful. I did know about the don't turn on heater unless water is in tank; so didn't ( I don't think). I'll try electrical heated water this evening.

There is absolutely nothing to be the least bit embarrassed about. It's all a learning experience that we have went thru. That's the whole purpose of these forums, to share knowledge and experiences with each other.

I feel I owe you, after sending you after that white rabbit in Byron, MS. That get's off with me that it wasn't good after I made the suggestion.

If you have gained a better understanding of your water heater, and it makes your travels better.....then we have done what we try to here in the forums.

Geri · 03-29-2013, 05:07 PM

Well I seem to be wrong. It doesn't heat with electricity, so likely I did what y'all suggested, and I denied. Thanks to F1100Turbo et al for the suggestions on finding a replacement element. Easily replaced?

paulmlac · 03-29-2013, 05:21 PM

Geri - There was only 14 minutes between your 2 posts (will try to heat on electric and it doesn't work). Electric is not as fast at heating as propane is. Up to an hour if heater tank has cold water in it. It is also silent. I think you need to allow a little more time to diagnose that it doesn't work.

TURBS · 03-29-2013, 06:57 PM

You should hear it sizzle when its working

garbonz · 03-29-2013, 08:17 PM

I only here a sizzle when I am grilling a steak. My WH is silent when on electric.

My previous TT had a 110 v switch for the water heater on the control panel, which was a good idea I think. Maybe that is a good mod to think of.

TURBS · 03-29-2013, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by garbonz

I only here a sizzle when I am grilling a steak. My WH is silent when on electric.

My previous TT had a 110 v switch for the water heater on the control panel, which was a good idea I think. Maybe that is a good mod to think of.

Our sabre has both switches inside as well.

VinceU · 03-29-2013, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geri

Well I seem to be wrong. It doesn't heat with electricity, so likely I did what y'all suggested, and I denied. Thanks to F1100Turbo et al for the suggestions on finding a replacement element. Easily replaced?

I don't remember you stated the circuit breaker is closed and power is available to the heater, did you check it? You can remove the circular cover over the element and check voltage across it. Remove ac during access to the heater. If voltage is present across the element, and no warming, the element is burned out. If needed remove the wiring from the element, can purchase renewal at Home Depot 117 volt rated only. Then change element by screwing out, drain heater first and replace with sealant on threads, reconnect wire and install cover after test for power.

TURBS · 03-29-2013, 08:31 PM

Geri · 03-30-2013, 04:30 PM

Thanks guys for the input. We were in the RV park at Big Bend when I wrote my plea, and had been on electric for a couple of hours by then, but the water was still cold. I will try taking off the cover and measuring voltage. Did check the circuit breaker and it was on. I assume its the round black cover in front. Again thank y'all for the help. If it is indeed burned out, think the easiest answer is to just use propane until we get home

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