Hot Water Tank Drain?

[Atlanta Panther]

On my 2014 3010DS there are two drains - one hot and one cold - underneath the water closet in the basement where the drinking water filter and pump are located. The cold one is valved at that point, the hot one is not. Is there a reason for this?

Is the hot water one controlled by the valve by the hot water heater behind the drawer in the kitchen?

How do you empty the hot water tank? Is the only way to pull the anode rod on my Suburban hot water tank or does the adjacent valve also empty the hot water tank?

A 101 on the drinking water system on my 3010DS would be appreciated.

[A32Deuce]

Is there a cap on one, that is the low point drain. The one in the compartment with the handle drains the fresh water tank. Relieve pressure in the system and you drain the water tank. Valves behind hot water are for winterizing.

[gmacklem]

A32Deuce is correct. Red is low point drain for the plumbing. Blue is the fresh water tank drain.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by Atlanta Panther

On my 2014 3010DS there are two drains - one hot and one cold - underneath the water closet in the basement where the drinking water filter and pump are located. The cold one is valved at that point, the hot one is not. Is there a reason for this?

Is the hot water one controlled by the valve by the hot water heater behind the drawer in the kitchen?

How do you empty the hot water tank? Is the only way to pull the anode rod on my Suburban hot water tank or does the adjacent valve also empty the hot water tank?

A 101 on the drinking water system on my 3010DS would be appreciated.

YES ! you have to pull the Anode rod to drain the Hot Water Tank. Be sure it's cooled off and the pressure has been released before removing the rod.

[Atlanta Panther]

So if I understand it correctly, the blue line with the valve empties the water tank, the red line without the valve but has an end cap empties the water lines with the exception of the hot water heater. To empty the hot water heater I need to release the pressure relief valve then pull the anode rod. Do I have that correct?

Seems like they should have a valve on the capped red line just in case the cap gets loose or breaks off. I think I will put one in. I like Hoglou’s idea of running lines to the back.

Thanks again.

[Bill and Gail]

Originally Posted by Atlanta Panther

So if I understand it correctly, the blue line with the valve empties the water tank, the red line without the valve but has an end cap empties the water lines with the exception of the hot water heater. To empty the hot water heater I need to release the pressure relief valve then pull the anode rod. Do I have that correct?

Seems like they should have a valve on the capped red line just in case the cap gets loose or breaks off. I think I will put one in. I like Hoglou’s idea of running lines to the back.

Thanks again.

I have a 2016 3010DS. Bypass the water heater, open the relief valve and remove the plug. If you have the Atwood heater, there is no anode rod. Then drain the other 2 lines, remove cap on one, open valve on the other.

[A32Deuce]

That is correct. Just winterized mine yesterday. If you blow out , leave the rod/plug out, with the air on, open the bypass valves behind the wh and this insures no water behind the valves and also pushes water from the wh. Also remember to remove the on board water filter and dry the threads on the housing if you put it back together with a new filter. After that, all I do is add AF to the traps and gray and black tanks. I don't push AF through my lines.

[rockfordroo]

Make sure you put your water heater into winterization mode (i.e., bypassed) BEFORE you open your cold water (blue) low point drain. If you don't, you can suck the white precipitate (lime, calcium) from the water heater back into the cold water line. It will then find it's way into your toilet valve and plug it up.

[Atlanta Panther]

Thanks to all so much for the info. I'm going to write up an SOP for myself to follow when doing this. Fortunately, we don't get too much freezing weather down here but I always blew out the lines on my horse trailer then added the pink stuff to my traps. One year I did have to replace the elbow behind the toilet where a little water had frozen up and broke the fitting.

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Make sure you put your water heater into winterization mode (i.e., bypassed) BEFORE you open your cold water (blue) low point drain. If you don't, you can suck the white precipitate (lime, calcium) from the water heater back into the cold water line. It will then find it's way into your toilet valve and plug it up.

On a SunSeeker the blue line with the valve inside is the fresh water tank drain. The Red capped line is the only Low Point Drain. TTs may be different.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

Is there a cap on one, that is the low point drain. The one in the compartment with the handle drains the fresh water tank. Relieve pressure in the system and you drain the water tank. Valves behind hot water are for winterizing.

And your direct answer re draining the Hot Water Tank. In my three RVs the only way to be sure the Hot Tank was drained was the Anode Rod. If you manage to drain it back in the system and out the low point drain or elsewhere you will be really UNHAPPY with the Hot Water Tank WHITE CRAP that gets back in to the system then messes up your water pump.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by A32Deuce

On a SunSeeker the blue line with the valve inside is the fresh water tank drain. The Red capped line is the only Low Point Drain. TTs may be different.

Then I wouldn't open the red one until I was in Bypass, either!

Weird that's there's only one low point drain. Sounds like either hot or cold isn't getting drained.

[A32Deuce]

That's how mine is. One for the fresh tank and the low point. Since everyone is so critical. I close the water heater off and open the low point and fresh tank drain. Then I run the water pump to clear the sediment filter of water. Then I blowout the system 3 times till there I s no mist coming out. Last time blowing it out with the rod removed is when I open the winterizing valves to blow out the heater. Reinstall the rod. Remove water filter, dry the housing and put in a new filter and put the housing back on. Put AF in the traps and some in the tanks and good to go. I do this about 4 times a year because we camp all year. And have been doing it this way for 6 years. This method works for me! If not you fine, don't fault me!

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Then I wouldn't open the red one until I was in Bypass, either!

Weird that's there's only one low point drain. Sounds like either hot or cold isn't getting drained.

Which I dont!

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by Tom48

And your direct answer re draining the Hot Water Tank. In my three RVs the only way to be sure the Hot Tank was drained was the Anode Rod. If you manage to drain it back in the system and out the low point drain or elsewhere you will be really UNHAPPY with the Hot Water Tank WHITE CRAP that gets back in to the system then messes up your water pump.

I don't know if he has an anode rod or a drain plug! Just a generalization.

[Hoglou]

A cutoff valve is the way to go for the h/w (and coldz). If you lose or break the cap your "water works" wont. Trip over...