Got tired of trying to add and check air on the inner dually tire.
So I took a 13 inch valve extender.Added a washer to hold it as I filled it up. And it's flexible so you can screw it on and off.
As far as taking the valve cap off.I used a couple of extensions with a 3/8 socket to take it off and put back on.
Didn't have a 3/8 hose so that might have been easier.*
And I don't have to leave the valve extender in all the time*
Which would not work with my rims.
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2007.5 Chevy 3500Ltz cc lb Duramax
2010 Sandpiper 345 RET (SOLD)
Look through the holes for the schrader valve on the inside dual. It should be 180 degrees out from the valve on the outer dual. I say "should be" because that's the proper way to install the dual wheels.
The most common cause of tire problems is, improper inflation. Most dual wheel set ups are difficult to inflate especially if you have the chrome simulator wheel covers on. The holes in the covers are to small to work through. Valve extensions are the best solution. I like the ones that attach to the center hub with a screw or rivet, putting both valves in the middle of the outside wheel for easy access. Some tire shops and do this but some will just stare at you in awe, not knowing if it will be a liability for them.
On any dual wheel vehicle I've owned I've had the dual wheel valves replaced with Dually Valves. Much more durable (safer) and easy to access for air check.
I had valve extenders added while having the oil changed at a rv garage. They were wire mesh... and the passenger side failed after 5 months, lost air on both tires and thank goodness for road service... brought a compressor air service truck out, filled both tires after removing the extenders. Drivers side dully extenders are still working fine.
Not sure when or if I'll add new ones to the rear passenger side, I'll just keep checking the ones I can get to...
[QUOTE=They were wire mesh... and the passenger side failed after 5 months, lost air on both tires[/QUOTE]
Yes, heard of this happening often. The solid rubber ones are even worse. I think putting an extender on a rubber or wire mesh stem creates even more problems due to flexing the additional weight.
There have been quite a few threads regarding this subject. I had problems with inner dual tire pressure and flex links. My solution was to remove the flex link and purchase large truck (semi) tire pressure gauges and air chucks. They are both about a foot long and will easily reach the inner dual valve stem. More importantly, they don't have the standard 45 degree tilted heads. They both have a straight in head that you just have to point at the straight out valve stem and push in. Easy! Bad news is that I can't remember where I bought the from on line.
The wire mesh valve extenders are best due to friction against the wheel. These can only be installed on steel valve stems also. Some wheels may have a cheap automotive rubber stem, these will not support the stress of adding the extender onto. An RV shop may have added the extenders without making sure the valve stems were the stronger metal ones. Most RV shops don't do tire work so they might have overlooked that detail? Extenders must be tightened gently with a plyers also, hand tightening is not enough.
I would also recommend buying a good quality 12 volt compressor to carry along with you. Northern Tool has one for about $80. bucks that connects to a battery, either RV or truck. I don't like the ones that plug into the cig lighter. Far to much current draw to inflate a high pressure tire. Likely to blow a fuse and leave you with no help at all.
Tubeless tires seem to loose air over time and always need to be inflated.
Good luck and happy motoring.
My problem is with the outside tire. The valve extender has a tendency to leak and deflate the outer tire placing all the weight on the inside tire. What I do is screw on the valve extender to check the pressure and remove it when I am finished. I know it's a PIA, but it's not difficult and I don't have any problems now with the outside tire.
2016 Forester 3011DS
Linear Mode
