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Old 02-01-2019, 10:41 AM   #1
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Leaking front Cap repair of headliner

Yesterday, we had a bad thunderstorm and I went out to the MH to check on it and found the cabover head liner sagging. I cut a slit and water drained out. When the rain stopped, I went on the roof and found the area of the leak. I put a tarp over the area and I will deal with the roof caulking when the rain has stopped and it has dried out. But my concern now is the head liner. The DW and I used plastic spatulas to squeegee a lot of the water out from the slit. This morning, most of the water is out but the vinyl has a foam backing and we will never be able to get all the water out without cutting a huge hole. I was thinking I could cut out the bulging section and the replace it with similar bright white vinyl with foam backing making it look like it's a another section panel of the headliner. Any suggestions? Also, anyone know how the surround speakers come off? I tried prying but could get the cover off.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:14 PM   #2
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I have pulled back the vinyl from the speakers to the wall. It's wet and so is the plywood. Drying out until I can figure out what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I think the plywood may have been glued to the styrofoam on the roof. Still can't get the speaker covers off. thought they snapped in.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:03 PM   #3
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I have let it dry out for a week now using computer fans in the opening and have caulked the roof. It rained last night and so far no leaking. Waiting on the vinyl still, but got the new speakers yesterday to replace the ones I had to pull off the ceiling as they had their covers glued on. Bought 3M adhesive 77 spray. Now trying to decide how to go about adhering the vinyl to the ceiling. 3' by 8' roll of vinyl is difficult to handle. Maybe spray one section at a time, let it dry and move on. Could try to do the entire ceiling at once, but applying pressure for the entire ceiling would be difficult.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:54 PM   #4
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I would buy a 4x8 sheet of 1/4” or thinner luan plywood, make it fit your overhead space with all cutouts. Glue your vinyl headliner to it, wrapping it over the edges by an inch or two. Using construction adhesive, from a caulk type tube, then you can attach it to your plywood ceiling. No nails/screws/fasteners showing. Replace lights and speakers and camp on
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:22 PM   #5
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I would buy a 4x8 sheet of 1/4” or thinner luan plywood, make it fit your overhead space with all cutouts. Glue your vinyl headliner to it, wrapping it over the edges by an inch or two. Using construction adhesive, from a caulk type tube, then you can attach it to your plywood ceiling. No nails/screws/fasteners showing. Replace lights and speakers and camp on
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We bought a sheet of 1/8" hardboard and were thinking of that way too making a template. We could use 1/8" luan instead and cut the luan 3/4" shorter all the way around and taper the edges. Then cut out holes for the lights, speakers and A/C vent We would then glue the vinyl to the luan and when dry, put in place, pull back the vinyl just a bit and staple luan to the ceiling. Then tuck all the sides in. The speakers, lights vent and curtain track should keep it up there along with the staples. No glue, no mess and margin for error.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:39 PM   #6
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Can you elaborate more on the leak on the roof that you calked, may be something we all should be checking.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:56 PM   #7
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Leaking front Cap repair of headliner

Sorry to hear you also experienced this Sagecoachdriver.

Yes we should. I think I had a leak there also. Also, around the dinette, skylight and the seam on the rounded pieces that run over the edge of the roof. I finally put on Roof Armor. Guaranteed for life. Quite expensive, but worth not having to be on the roof after every rain look for another or the same leak.

Also, when checking caulk. Don't just look. Use your fingers to pluck at it. Mine looked good, but when I pulled on a few areas, I found that it was not adhering to the roof.
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Old 02-09-2019, 03:58 PM   #8
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I did a fair job of caulking as it was going to rain soon and only had a few tube of caulk. Have used 5 tubes of self leveling. I' have it covered for the moment. I went around everywhere on the roof and cleaned the areas that needed attention with alcohol and a few minutes later caulked. I bought a Royobi battery operated gun so it goes on easy and no hand cramps. I also bought 50 feet of 6" grey Eternabond tape for later. When it warms up again, I will give the roof a good washing , prep those areas that need more caulk and give it a good caulking. Then maybe later in the hot summer apply the Eternabond tape and caulk the edges. I just don't trust the caulk job for more that a few years. Getting harder to work up there after turning 71 and having hernia surgery. Will have to look into Roof Armour. Sure can't be doing this kind of stuff in another few years.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:56 PM   #9
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Can't believe no interest in this topic. Oh well, made a template yesterday and cut holes in 1/8" luan for the lights, vent and speakers. Will dry fit it today and leave it up there until the foam back vinyl arrives.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:18 PM   #10
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Sage, just saw the post about your leak. I can only imagine how you felt when you discovered it. I had a similar situation happen to my 3011 last June. It's kept in a covered carport but I leave the air on set at 85 degrees. As you are probably aware, the design of the room causes water to pool in the corners. The day before we were to leave for a FROG rally I went out to pack a couple of things and noticed a stain on the ceiling over the front bed. I picked up some caulking at my dealer on the way to the rally and caulked it on arrival.

When we returned, the dealer removed all the old caulking and re-caulked everything. They tell me it should be done every couple of years. Fortunately the damage appears minimal but still would like to replace the padded ceiling. I later discovered water had also ran down the drivers side corner in the rear closet.

I am thinking of going with FlexArmor next time it is due. There corporate headquarters is about 3 hours from me and I understand they do an excellent job.

Good luck with your repairs.

Bill
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Old 02-12-2019, 02:55 PM   #11
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Stagecoach driver, you certainly are more talented and much more patient than I.
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Old 02-12-2019, 07:29 PM   #12
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Temporarily mounted the luan to the ceiling for the time being with the help of the DW. We have decided we will not use contact cement and permanently attach the panel to ceiling as we may need to remove it in the future. We will most likely staple or screw it to the ceiling. Will try to leave some of the edges of the luan open at some of the edge for this.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:09 AM   #13
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I am having a difficulty acquiring the same color foam backed vinyl The samples received are either a shade too white or a shade too off white. No exact match yet. Otherwise, we're ready to go.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:23 AM   #14
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GL1800Rider, yes, I was quite upset when I saw the sagging headliner. But I knew after finding and repairing the leaking seams and drying out the above cabover, that I could save probably $1,000+ doing it myself. I noticed the water pooling design of the roof shortly after buying the MH. Always had water collected at the passengers side front corner of the roof. I applied Dicor self leveling caulk in a triangle shape i the corner to help mitigate the pooling there.
Big lesson learned here: Check the roof every 3 months and caulk as needed. I still have 50' of Eternabond to apply in this summer as a final fix for the roof.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:24 AM   #15
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You might shoot an email to Brian Clemens. Since he used to be at the Forester plant and Dynamax uses the padded ceiling it may be the same supplier.
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:39 PM   #16
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I noticed the water pooling design of the roof shortly after buying the MH. Always had water collected at the passengers side front corner of the roof. I applied Dicor self leveling caulk in a triangle shape i the corner to help mitigate the pooling there.
Big lesson learned here: Check the roof every 3 months and caulk as needed. I still have 50' of Eternabond to apply in this summer as a final fix for the roof.
Sage,

I'm going into my 4th season with a 3011 and noticed very early on the many complaints about leaks with the current roof design and based on my own visual's decided to go the eternabond route at the end of the 2nd season on both front and rear caps. (see pic) So far no leaks and ethernabond is holding up well. It also helps that my Public Storage parking space is on a incline from front to back so no water pools at the front cap and most if it actually run off at the back.
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Old 02-13-2019, 02:36 PM   #17
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Sage,

I'm going into my 4th season with a 3011 and noticed very early on the many complaints about leaks with the current roof design and based on my own visual's decided to go the eternabond route at the end of the 2nd season on both front and rear caps. (see pic) So far no leaks and ethernabond is holding up well. It also helps that my Public Storage parking space is on a incline from front to back so no water pools at the front cap and most if it actually run off at the back.
Great job! Did you caulk the edges? I hear they attract dirt. Looks like there wasn't an issue going over the old caulking and screws. Any photos of the front?
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:54 PM   #18
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I did not caulk any of the edges before putting on the eternabond as the all of the caulking was still in really good shape. That is one of the reasons I decided not to do the sides and also because most issues seem to be either on the front or end cap. I put the 6" eternabond along the edges far enough so that any pooled water would not extend beyond the eternabond. After a couple of years the eternabond is a little dirtier but not any more so than the roof. I power wash the roof every spring which helps clean it up a bit.
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:17 PM   #19
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Thanks NewRVer, I meant the edge of the Eternabond. I have seen where some have applied Doctor self leveling lap around the perimeter of tHe Eternabond tape to prevent any dirt or water leaking in and keep the tape edges down.
I re-read my posts on similiar topics and I said I was going to apply Eternabond tape back in 2016-2017. Lazy me, now I pay the price. Waiting for the first warm spell here in SoCal to apply the Eternabond after reading my previous posts on this topic.
Only concern with the tape is how to hide or blend into the full body paint and not make the visible roof line look like a patch job.
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Old 02-14-2019, 08:26 AM   #20
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Sage,

As you can see, I did not apply any dicor around the edge of the eternabond as I did not think that was necessary. Ie. If applied correctly water should not get underneath and the dicor will eventually get dirty as well. When I do the rework on my solar panels this spring I'll take some updated pics.

PS. From below you cannot even tell I have done the eternabond work unless you are looking for it.
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