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Old 06-13-2016, 12:32 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2016
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Leveling a Sunseeker 2800QS GTS w Big Foot

OK so we are pretty novice to C Class RV'ing. We have taken our 2017 2800QS out a few times and each time I have had challenges getting the Big Foot system to work except this past weekend.

I need some input on the process to make sure I am doing the right thing.

This past weekend we were at a spot that was semi level. Front was 6 to 8 inches lower than the back (the whole unit is about 30 feet long) and the left side was low about 2-4 inches. After first trying to level it with Big Foot, it wouldn't finish as there wasn't enough Throw in a couple of the levelers. I placed 4-2x6 pieces of wood under both front leveling pads of the Big Foot. The Big Foot leveled the RV perfectly however the front wheels were off the ground by about 4 or more inches. I didn't have any other wood to put under the wheels so we left it hanging and used the RV with no problems. A little concerned we were hanging there however!

OK so I am pretty sure the wheels aren't supposed to be off the ground!

How should I have started the leveling process? Drive up on a leveling wedge ( I just ordered 2) first and then use the Big Foot or what?

Do you level side to side first and then front to back? The Big Foot obviously figures all of that out but I want to make sure I am doing the process correctly.

Any help any of you could give me would be appreciated.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:18 PM   #2
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I have a 2014 3010 and I have a portable box that is under the front drivers seat. It has the power switch, auto and retract. I just hit the auto switch and they all four go down. They will adjust on their own once they are down. The flashing green lights will indicate they are all down.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:31 PM   #3
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Thanks, I have a similar panel that does all of what I think you are describing. I am more concerned with initial steps to follow so I don't end up with the tires off the ground.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:59 AM   #4
Join Date: Apr 2016
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First I would move around a little on the site to see if you could find a more level spot. If not then I would put something under the front tires first. Then keep in mind you would also have to put something of a similar height under the front leveler a so you don't run out of adjustment height. Front tires off the ground is not the end of the world but it is kind of disconcerting to look at. Keep in mind you never want the rears off the ground as the emergency brake is what keeps you from rolling.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:46 AM   #5
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Thanks for your feedback. That makes more sense as you describe it, so getting the leveling wedges is probably going to help in the future. I totally get your comment about the rear tires not being off the ground!!!
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:25 PM   #6
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I keep a bag of the orange square blocks that I use under the Levelers
I always use at least one per pad and multiply as necessary (guess) so the Levelers don't max out
There has been a lot of discussion on tires being off the ground or not and I personally strive to to have tire contact
This past month in Myrtle during a storm (the day before I got there) a Class A that was up on auto Levelers got hit with the micro burst (that flipped 3 TTs) and broke (bent) came off the jacks
In other words the unit was supported by the steel pads with little or no tire contact to the ground,not to mention I want to be grounded (lightning strike) with the tires on the ground
What can I say?
I've been hit by lightning twice in an Airplane and other than the Grey streak in my hair and a shockingly good looks I was unaffected ;-)

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Old 06-14-2016, 06:04 PM   #7
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If you manually level (which I like better) only level front to back, not side to side. It is possible to over rack (twist) the coach if the left or right corners is lifted too far. Compare to a jeep where you can suspend one tire off the ground and the frame is stiff to the point it does not flex...
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:05 PM   #8
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I hit Auto and let it do it's thang, using blocks under the pads if needed, if it doesn't finish with the green. Yes, sometimes the fronts clear the ground. I went through the recalbration recently and it now seems to find the sweet spot at a lower altitude. If I think the rears are getting light I chock the fronts. Also, I have used manual if it's a level spot and I just want to seat the pads, but I do run them in pairs.

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Old 06-14-2016, 10:10 PM   #9
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If I have a tire off the ground I just put a block tightly under it. retract all and auto level again. Its usually enough for tire contact but if I can't achieve tire contact. I'll retract all again and drive onto a thicker block and start over. I don't know if its the proper way to do it but it works for me. I know you can do it other ways also but this seems the fastest for me.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:12 PM   #10
Join Date: Dec 2015
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We got our unit in December of 2015 and during the familiarization session, they specifically said don't have front wheels off the ground.

We recently stayed at a KOA where when we leveled the front wheels were off the ground. I use the orange leveler blocks. I stack and put them behind front tires and drove up on them and then put a couple blocks under the front levelers. Went through leveling process again and was good to go.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:56 PM   #11
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I carry a pair of these and a level. When I get to a spot, I'll check the level inside and if it's out a great deal in the front of the rv, I'll drive up on the ramps a bit to keep the fronts from hanging. I'll also use Lynx levelers under the jacks so they don't extend too far.


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