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Old 09-28-2014, 10:33 PM   #1
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Leveling Jacks

The used 2015 3170ds we're looking at doesn't have leveling jacks. What kind would you recommend having installed, can they even be installed now?
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:55 AM   #2
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I would install the big foot just like the factory ones and yes they can be installed now it might even have the mounting brackets already installed on the frame.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:02 AM   #3
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2015 on a Ford should have the brackets on there.
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:35 PM   #4
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Perfect, I figured Big Foot would be the answer, but just wanted to make sure.
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Old 10-04-2014, 01:53 AM   #5
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I had Bigfoot levelers installed onto my 2013 3121DS and I love them. It's so nice to push a button and let those baby's do all of the work. I put the control panel next to the coach entry door and it looks nice situated next to the cluster of buttons (awning, floor lights, outside light) in that same area of the RV.

I ordered my Bigfoot system straight from the factory, it took about 2 weeks for them to fabricate the set and yes, the Ford chassis is ready to receive the Bigfoot brackets but they have to be welded onto the frame, no bolt on here.
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Old 10-04-2014, 07:24 PM   #6
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I have scissor jacks installed on the rear of mine by the deal. That with a cordless drill to move them up and down makes it easy. Be careful with hydraulic levelers as you may be overweight in a hurry.
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Old 10-04-2014, 08:02 PM   #7
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My 2014 ford frame came with the brackets welded in place. Now I just need the $ for the leveling system
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:53 PM   #8
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That's right. I totally forgot that they put the brackets on all of the 2015 models. That's huge because it is now possible to do a plug n play install with no welding pro required.

Nice!

If you get the below Bigfoot system that is referenced in the web link, weight should never be an issue as long as you do not exceed your RV weight limits.

This is what I have on my 3121DS and they work like a charm.

Ford F-550 Automatic 4pt Leveling System
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:02 PM   #9
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I'm new to the forum, and just recently (less than 30 days ago) bought a 2012 3170ds Sunseeker. I grew up with various motor homes, but am new to world as an owner now myself.

My question related to this thread is where to best put stabilizing jacks if I'm just doing it manually. We will be recreational travelers, and I'm not ready to invest in attaching jacks to the frame, but I'd like to make sure I'm using the right spots and avoid any mistakes that could damage my new (to me) rig.

From what I can tell from this thread and other similar threads, I want to keep them close to the axles (in front of front axle, just behind the rear axle), and use the stabilizer jacks to lift it slightly (how much?) off the springs, but no where near enough to take the wheels off the ground. In the rear, it looks like the best place is on the frame (looks like an I beam) about a foot or so behind the rear axle. I haven't really had a chance to figure out where they should go in the front.

Appreciate any tips that some of the more experienced folks can share with a newcomer. We have had a couple of close to home shake down trips at local campgrounds, but we are getting ready to take a slightly longer (3 hour) drive to camp a couple days near out of town family. After our most recent trip, I'd definitely like to stabilize it a bit better to reduce the movement from 2 adults, 3 active kids, and our dog. :-)


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Old 10-05-2014, 08:32 PM   #10
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Welcome to the fun world of RVing Ninja Flyer,

The very first thing to think about is this; you always want to “level” your RV from under the four (4) tires with leveling blocks much like the type in the below web link:

http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015...eveling+blocks

Second is that you can attach “Stabilizing Scissor Jacks” to certain areas under your RV that will help with the moving of the box while you and your family are walking around inside the coach. I know that feeling when you are lying down in the bed and you can feel every bit of movement when others are walking inside of the RV. You would be looking for something like the jacks in the web link below:

Amazon.com: Husky 76862 24 Stabilizing Scissor Jack - Set of 2: Automotive

Use great caution as to where you will place the “Stabilizing Scissor Jacks” if you choose to utilize them. If they are put into the wrong place on your RV, it will likely damage the RV as all area are "not" meant to have large amounts of pressure put upon them.

I never used them in my 2013 - 3121DS thus I do not have the perfect placement information for you, but I feel certain somebody else most likely will answer that portion of your question for you.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:45 PM   #11
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Thanks Appleguy. I did pick up a set of ten blocks for leveling. For the rear wheels, do you need blocks under both sets of of the tires on one side, or just the outside tire?

I appreciate your quick response and links. I found several other threads that answered other 'newbie' questions, so I share your confidence that there are likely others that can steer me even further in the right direction.


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Old 10-06-2014, 12:28 AM   #12
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Thanks Appleguy. I did pick up a set of ten blocks for leveling. For the rear wheels, do you need blocks under both sets of of the tires on one side, or just the outside tire?

I appreciate your quick response and links. I found several other threads that answered other 'newbie' questions, so I share your confidence that there are likely others that can steer me even further in the right direction.


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It will be different each time you pull into a campsite. Keep in mind that when you level your RV, you are looking at Back/Front & Left/Right. Most of the time, you will need to level using 2 of your 4 wheels, for example, 2 wheels on the passenger side of your rig or 2 wheels in the rear of your rig.

I always keep 3 ten-piece kit bags in my RV and 99% of the time, that is plenty to get the job done with a few stacking blocks left over. Of course, I only use them these days if my Bigfoot were to fail working which it has not
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Old 10-06-2014, 04:55 PM   #13
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You should put an equal number of blocks under both rear tires on a side when blocking the rear tires. A single tire on the rear is not rated to support the weight of one side of the rear.


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Old 10-11-2014, 11:11 AM   #14
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I plan on leveling with blocks, but looking for something for stabilizing. Pushing a button for the Bigfoot jacks sounded ideal, but now an over kill.
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Old 10-11-2014, 06:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockeytownmom View Post
I plan on leveling with blocks, but looking for something for stabilizing. Pushing a button for the Bigfoot jacks sounded ideal, but now an over kill.

If you use the blocks be sure to get the flat tops for them. The ridges can damage the cords in the tires.
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:19 PM   #16
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Blocks only level they don't stabilize. Blocks don't alleviate motion for people that are sensitive to it. The Big Foot system does help in that regard. Something to think about.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:03 PM   #17
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If you have air bags try increasing the air pressure to 100psi it will stiffen up the suspension and lessen body movement. The biggest problem with manual stabilizers is they need to mount to the frame and it is a pita to operate them under the body of a class c. our 98 jayco did not have hydraulic jacks and our 2011 3170 does and the difference is night and day. I will never have another mh without hydraulic levelers.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:38 PM   #18
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Good to know about the flat blocks. I don't have those, do they fit on the normal "Lego" type blocks?
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:40 PM   #19
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And after the rocky roo, I think we can handle a little motion. We couldn't get that thing to stay still to save our lives! Stabilizer, BAL X Chocks, nothing seemed to work. We could feel our 4 year old roll over.
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Old 10-16-2014, 10:28 AM   #20
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Something else to think about... if you go with aftermarket Bigfoot jacks you still have choices... factory specs have the auto level system that uses a pump on each jack... or you can go as I did with the manual system, only one pump and tank... you do have to have a mounting bracket welding on the inside of the frame but it has 3 less pumps and tanks and not as many moving parts so to speak...and makes it cheaper to buy..
If I had to do it again I'd still go the manual rout...
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