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Old 11-26-2015, 08:43 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
I have to ask!

Who said that?
My service writer told me that when I called to ask what the heck was leaking.

It was dark out and I couldn't tell. I was in a shopping center parking lot with a leaking RV. I was worried about someone complaining to the police.
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:00 PM   #22
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Ah, leaks in the dealers lot happen all of the time.

Shopping center is another deal.

How cold is it getting?

Are you camped out in this parking lot and need the water?
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:04 PM   #23
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Ah, leaks in the dealers lot happen all of the time.

Shopping center is another deal.

How cold is it getting?

Are you camped out in this parking lot and need the water?

Per #15 he was winterized. Probably fresh water tank still draining but he may try to verify that's what it is.


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Old 11-26-2015, 11:30 PM   #24
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Per #15 he was winterized. Probably fresh water tank still draining but he may try to verify that's what it is.


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I stopped at Target on my way home from the RV dealer. The total trip from the dealer to home is 25 minutes at most. I park in my driveway, no storage. I plan to use RV year round for a home addition, short trips and shopping.

Right now I am fighting an infection in my leg that I think I may have got from a scrape on an RV stair in August. I found a blue hose behind a hatch in the left rear compartment. That hose has a valve just inside the hatch. It is just above where the water was pouring out.

I appreciate your input and concern.
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:52 PM   #25
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Today I was able to get a better look at my drains.

The one that I mentioned that I could see behind a hatch ( is the the correct term?) in the left rear compartment is the FW tank drain. It has a valve and the valve is currently open. Following the blue PEX one end drops down to the underside of the RV. This is where I saw all the water flowing out. It was not a trickle, more of a strong, steady stream.
The other end goes forward a bit and then into the FW tank. This is the first time that I saw the tank. I can see the sensors and a label stating that it is a tank. HOWEVER, there is another line intersecting this blue line between the valve and the tank. That line is whitish in color. It disappears in to a glop of black gook. I don't know where the goes but possibly to the hot water tank further forward. Except that the cold water supply to the HW tank is blue PEX.


On the other side of the RV forward of the propane tank but to the rear of the coach door are hot and cold drain lines. I don't know if they are just for the kitchen sink or also service all of the plumbing fixtures on that side; vanity sink, toilet and shower.
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Old 11-28-2015, 01:10 PM   #26
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We have a 2250SLEC as well - Delco Bobby, you've found the valve for the drain to empty the fresh water tank, and the two low point drains just aft of the side entry door.

There's a white flexible (well, in warm weather, anyway) hose with a cap on the end just like the low point drains in your rear driver's side access hatch. It connects to a three-way valve, and it is for winterizing with the pink stuff. I had gone to the effort to cut the cable-tie on mine as it was coiled up & tied off in the access hatch, then pulled it out & checked its function - it is on the suction side of the pump.
The valve controls whether the pump is pulling from the fresh water tank or the winterizing hose.

There are other white hoses in the area - I'll go look & determine where they go.

A somewhat easier way to get a good look at all this piping is to run your slide all the way out, then lift the mattress base up - it is hinged on the side nearest the bathroom wall. Also, to get to the valves to bypass the water heater, rather than removing the panel in front of the heater, just open the bottom drawer all the way. You can reach into the space and get to the valves.

If you ever need to access it, your slide control box is located between the water heater and the fresh water tank as well.

I chose to both blow out the lines with compressed air, then pour pink stuff into the fresh water tank and draw it through the lines. I found some low points that I felt I couldn't ensure would be clear using the air-only method. Also, I like having a bit of pink stuff in the FW tank as we are on well water which has no chlorine.

I've had problems in the past when I left a bit of water in the FW tank over the winter here in the NW where it doesn't stay frozen for months on end. Our winter temps range between 50į to 25į, with occasional dips below that.

I'll get some pics posted that should help other new 2250 owners.

--Bruce.
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Old 11-28-2015, 02:33 PM   #27
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Pics!
I see you, Delco Bobby stated in your original posting that you have a 2050, but then later state several times it is a 2250. I'm presuming you have a 2250 SLEC, right?

Our low point drains are located just aft of the entry door on the passenger side:


In your images, you found the low point drains by looking through the hatch for your propane tank. Our 2016 model has the propane tank on the drivers side rather than the passenger side; we have a storage compartment just aft of the entry door.

For the fresh water tank drain and the plumbing in that area, looks like you can remove the bulk of the spray-in foam on & around the piping - they sure put a lot of it in these areas! Here's an image of mine:


The blue like at the upper right comes from the FW tank. The first intersection is a tee, then an ell to the valve. This is the fresh water tank drain, and as you found, it drains through the floor.

The tee connects to a two-way valve that does the following:
1) In the normal position in line with the blue & white nylon braid hose, the pump pulls water from the fresh water tank.
2) In the winterizing position, the handle points to the white nylon braid hose heading away from the valve in this image.
When the valve is in the winterizing position, you can unroll the hose and place the end into a bottle of pink stuff. Turn on the pump - it'll draw from this source.

To access this area from above, you can open the bed. I found out quite by accident that I could do this - I was digging around the converter/charger when I noticed a piano hinge on the underside of the foot of the bed:


Run the slide all the way out (Hint: To keep the slide motors in sync, run the slide out until it stops - hold the switch for one to two more seconds, this sets the stop points in the slide controller), remove the top mattress, and lift the bottom section up:


At the far right side, you can see down into the same cavity you were looking into from the access port in the rear compartment:


Now you can see where the lines go... The white nylon braid line at the top right side of this image heads from the winterizing valve to the inlet of the water pump.

This image shows the coiled line again that is the pickup for the winterizing solution:


To access the water heater in order to bypass it for winterizing, initially I removed the four screws holding the panel in place. This is located under the wardrobe/pantry, between the bed and rear dinette seat. However, I found an easier way - simply open the bottom drawer all the way:


To bypass the water heater, turn off both the top and bottom valves, then turn on the center one:


From the outside, remove the nylon plug, and step aside. To speed up the process, hold open the popoff valve lever. (I can post pics of that if anyone would like to see that process).

From this space, you can see the water pump:


The white nylon braid line from the earlier pics is the input to the water pump:


I chose to do both the compressed air and pink stuff methods to winterize. I found some lines that had droops, and some that were past points where water would sit unless I used the compressed air to remove the most of it.

The process I used:
1) Park the MH where the unit was leaning to drivers side & nose was pointing slightly down hill.
2) Open the access hatch in the rear driver side compartment, open the drain valve.
3) Access the water heater from the outside - remove the drain plug on the water heater. Note - you will get wet. To speed up the draining process, open the lever on the popoff valve at the top. You'll get even more wet....
4) Open the low point drains just aft of the entry door on the passenger side.
5) After all has drained out, close the hatches, and drive slowly in circles on an uneven slope to help drain the water. Park in the original spot.
6) Install an adapter in the city water inlet for your compressor. Blow the lines clear. I did this before bypassing the water heater as I wanted to ensure the low angle of the inlet line after the winterizing valve was blown clear.
7) Close: Drain valve, cap the low point drains, and set the valve on the water heater to the winterizing positions as shown above.
8) Pour in a gallon of pink stuff in the FW tank. I chose to do this rather than using the winterizing line as we are on well water - and I've found leaving unchlorinated water in the tank over the winter can cause issues with mold forming in the tank. The pink stuff stops mold growth.
9) With the unit parked on a slope as mentioned, start the water pump. Hopefully you remembered to cap the low water points - don't ask how I know...
10) Run the kitchen sink cold line until you see pink.
11) Run the kitchen sink hot until you see pink.
12) Run the bath sink cold, then hot until you see pink. This should be very quick.
13) Run the shower cold, then hot until you see pink. Again, this should be very quick.
14) Open the inlet valve to the hot water heater for just a second to push a bit of pink in that low point between the valve and tank.
15) Turn off pump.

That should do it all. The line for the city input should have been empty, so there's no need to add pink to it. You'd need a bit of pressure to get it past the check valve in the inlet anyway.

Hope all this helps!

--Bruce.
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Old 11-28-2015, 02:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc View Post
Pics!
I see you, Delco Bobby stated in your original posting that you have a 2050, but then later state several times it is a 2250. I'm presuming you have a 2250 SLEC, right?

Our low point drains are located just aft of the entry door on the passenger side:


In your images, you found the low point drains by looking through the hatch for your propane tank. Our 2016 model has the propane tank on the drivers side rather than the passenger side; we have a storage compartment just aft of the entry door.

For the fresh water tank drain and the plumbing in that area, looks like you can remove the bulk of the spray-in foam on & around the piping - they sure put a lot of it in these areas! Here's an image of mine:


The blue like at the upper right comes from the FW tank. The first intersection is a tee, then an ell to the valve. This is the fresh water tank drain, and as you found, it drains through the floor.

The tee connects to a two-way valve that does the following:
1) In the normal position in line with the blue & white nylon braid hose, the pump pulls water from the fresh water tank.
2) In the winterizing position, the handle points to the white nylon braid hose heading away from the valve in this image.
When the valve is in the winterizing position, you can unroll the hose and place the end into a bottle of pink stuff. Turn on the pump - it'll draw from this source.

To access this area from above, you can open the bed. I found out quite by accident that I could do this - I was digging around the converter/charger when I noticed a piano hinge on the underside of the foot of the bed:


Run the slide all the way out (Hint: To keep the slide motors in sync, run the slide out until it stops - hold the switch for one to two more seconds, this sets the stop points in the slide controller), remove the top mattress, and lift the bottom section up:


At the far right side, you can see down into the same cavity you were looking into from the access port in the rear compartment:


Now you can see where the lines go... The white nylon braid line at the top right side of this image heads from the winterizing valve to the inlet of the water pump.

This image shows the coiled line again that is the pickup for the winterizing solution:


To access the water heater in order to bypass it for winterizing, initially I removed the four screws holding the panel in place. This is located under the wardrobe/pantry, between the bed and rear dinette seat. However, I found an easier way - simply open the bottom drawer all the way:


To bypass the water heater, turn off both the top and bottom valves, then turn on the center one:


From the outside, remove the nylon plug, and step aside. To speed up the process, hold open the popoff valve lever. (I can post pics of that if anyone would like to see that process).

From this space, you can see the water pump:


The white nylon braid line from the earlier pics is the input to the water pump:




--Bruce.
I'd say you got it covered. Nice job.

Bruce
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Old 11-28-2015, 02:59 PM   #29
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Looking at your pics after posting mine - It appears you don't have a winterizing valve & hose. They can be added, but as I commented in my previous post, I find it is better to pour the pink stuff into the FW tank. It take a bit more but it protects the tank as well.

We purchased our unit new in late October of this year, so I've been doing a lot of learning!

For years, I've used a little trick to pour bleach & pink stuff in my fresh water tank - I have a fruit juice bottle that has a neck that just fits inside the fresh water inlet. I cut a large elliptical hole in the side of the bottle, then hold the bottle in the inlet and pour the desired liquid into the hole. The bottle acts as a right-angle funnel. It sure makes this process easy.

--Bruce.
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:59 PM   #30
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Wow, brucemc, that is an extensive tutorial. Greatly appreciated and well done. I do have a 2250 SLC. Excuse the previous typo. Good photos too.

Your low point drain lines extend lower than mine.

Now I know what that white line is.

Do I see a large drawer under your bed closer to the rear of the vehicle? I have the two smaller drawers but an open space to their left.

I didn't get down and look but running my finger under the bed platform it felt like there was a piano hinge there. Good to know about that too.

Where we live in SE PA the winter weather came vary quite a bit from year to year. Mild to awful. We can stay below freezing for a week or two or three. So I am concerned about free damage.

I plan to use the RV as much as possible year round so it would be nice to have some fresh water in the tank to flush the toilet but I don't know how foolish that me be. The weather forecasts here are rarely correct so I can not trust what the claim the low temp will be (or anything else they say).

Bobby
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Old 11-28-2015, 04:15 PM   #31
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You are welcome. I write technical notes in my work, though this is a more casual style.

The drawers under the bed: We have two drawers above an empty opening. We've found a couple of containers that fit under there for shoes and coats that we wouldn't use often but like to have with us.

Regarding the freezing weather - even having fresh water in the tank will freeze if the temps are below freezing for any length of time and you are not running the heater. Even though the space under the bed is within the insulated envelope, the insulation is R-10 at the best. A house with 4" walls is R-21 for a bit of reference.

If you'd like to flush the toilet during the winter, I'd suggest carrying gallon bottles of water. Then add some pink stuff to the black tank from time to time to help keep it from freezing between the times you empty it.

Our temps in western Oregon typically range from 50 down to 20, with an occasional drop into the teens. Some winters never freeze, but the last several years we've had freezing nights for perhaps a quarter of the fall/winter season. If the night is clear, the temps usually drop into freezing temps. If they are cloudy, usually the temps stay in the high 30s to 40s depending on the weather pattern.

Enjoy!
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Old 03-24-2016, 09:51 PM   #32
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brucemc,

Looking at the photos in your post #27 it looks like the drain lines just rear of the coach door have caps at the bottom. My lines are not capped.

I am ready to summarize my rig.

Does anyone know if there are shut off valves on these lines and where they are? I have great difficulty bending over and turning my head so I want to minimize my search to specific areas. My two guesses are just under the sink to behind the drawer that is below the sink cabinet.

Thanks,

Bobby
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Old 03-24-2016, 11:21 PM   #33
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Low point drain location

Excellent information here. However the usually preferred way to deal with the FW tank is to empty it and then there is no need for chlorination or antifreeze in the FW tank. Since it's for FRESH water, keeping the off-taste and off-smell elements out is good. If you need water onboard, it may be beat to just keep it inside.

If one must use the toilet in the winter, keep a gallon or two of windshield washer fluid rated to -20 or -30 (as needed for local conditions) on hand in the bathroom. That stuff won't freeze in the toilet or in the holding tank. The solids may still freeze but you're on your own there just as you would be with water+pink antifreeze. At least the tank will be full of liquid not a block of ice. An arctic pack will keep the tank above freezing if you have it and have shore power to support it.


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Old 03-25-2016, 02:39 PM   #34
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I learnt something today.... I really see the value of window washer fluid as an emergency head solvent. DW want 24/7 access to coach facilities when we are in it, whether I got water or not. Keep the ideas flowing...pun

Also consider this if youre thinkin about adding water softener to the black tank to make it slicker, try a cap full calgon in with some toliet treatment in a solo cup. It will turn to a taffy type substance. Glad I tested this first....
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Old 03-26-2016, 05:48 PM   #35
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If you need water onboard, it may be beat to just keep it inside.

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Correction: it may be best....




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Old 03-26-2016, 06:09 PM   #36
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I used my RV all winter. I kept a supply of gallon containers and RV antifreeze in the shower. Used the water for flushing #1 and added some antifreeze to tank every trip. Also kept the toilet valve covered with antifreeze. Luckily #2 was done indoors.
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