making larger sewer hose hole

[Tilly]

The screwed cover opening in the floor of the dump valve compartment is just 4" and many better quality sewer hose flanges are just over 4" across. This makes it impossible to use the opening to run the hose out of the compartment and close the door on the compartment. I discussed it during a factory tour where they said they were going to start putting in a larger portal in the floor.

I've purchased a 6" hole screwed cover plate (aka screwed in deck plate) from a marine supply store. I'm thinking to move the hole closer to the dump exit so the hose angles more smoothly than the current configuration.

Has anyone else done this modification and can offer any recommendations on the process to cut the hole and locating it?

Thanks in advance,
Tilly

[Flybob]

In my previous TT, I installed a marine deck plate in the top of my fresh water tank. I used a W/D vac to totally drain it when storing and it made cleaning very easy as I could use a sterilizing solution on a sponge to clean the tank.

[lowreyfarris]

I debated on doing the same thing but decided against it. Instead I took the cheap sewer hose that the dealership gave me when I purchased the rv and cut it down to about 6 inches. I leave it connected to a clear 90 elbow, and when attached it hangs below the RV about 2 inches. I then connect my rhinoflex.

I did replace the electrical deck plate with a larger one after I replaced my plug end with one with a handle. It was very easy using a dremel and cutter bit. There where no issues, I just try to avoid cutting into my RV whenever possible.

[Mojojojo]

My father in law had the same issue on a blunder I used a dremell and sanded out 4 grooves that the better grade hose needed for its ears to clear. Just go slow and do a fit Check often, check often ,and be sure to do a fit check often.

[oakprk]

I recently purchased a Rhinoflex drain hose and discovered the same problem. My solution was to cut off (completely) two of the opposing "bumps/tits" which enables me to easily angle it into the opening. You only need two of the bumps to properly secure the flange.

I would recommend against going with the 6" cover. I've had problems with mice getting into the smallest hole and a 6" hole for a 4" hose would give them plenty of room.

[bclemens]

We use a 5" now. Others have used the exact same screws, used a dremel to cut the hole bigger. Put down some sealant and screwed down the new deck plate.

[paulmlac]

I can honestly say I am, without a doubt, the least handy person on this site. My wife and kids would easily agree. But, that said, even I did this mod.

I can't recall if I used a 5 or 6 inch deck plate.

Based on my lack of handiness I don't want fancy tools like a dremel. But here's how I did do it:

Traced the new bigger circle. I used the edge of the existing hole to be the edge of the new hole.

Used a drill to make pilot holes every so often on the line.

Cut from drill hole to drill hole with a small hand saw.

Sanded the cut edges smooth.

Used a sealant and screws to attach the new deck plate.

Wife supervised the whole thing. Her dad built the house they lived in. Even she was reasonably ok with me tackling this.

I really like leaving the hose out the bottom of the compartment on longer trips vs leaving the door open (especially since we leave our surge protector in the compartment).

Good luck!


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[RvBill3]

Originally Posted by bclemens

We use a 5" now. Others have used the exact same screws, used a dremel to cut the hole bigger. Put down some sealant and screwed down the new deck plate.

That's what I did and I think after I did it back in 2012, Brian had them change to a 5" deck plate. I located it using as much of the original opening as possible. I added a Rhino 45 degree angle clear elbow to the end of the outlet (and leave it permanently attached). It positions right over the deck plate and makes it easy to attach the hose, as well as monitor what is going on because it is clear.


2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy

[Tilly]

To all the great replies - thanks for the input, especially PAULMLAC's great details. I had bought a 45 deg clear elbow with flanges on both ends hoping to just leave it connected like RVBILL3 and LOWERYFERRIS have done. However, with the hole not being in line with the dump flange, it isn't easy to fit the clear insert and a connection without a hard turn on the hose even if I enlarged the hole. So, my engineering mind started looking at patching over the old hole and cutting a whole new hole. I decided I was making a federal issue out of a parking ticket and went for simple yet effective method. Upon further review it seems easier to cut the end off the new hose and put my old 45 deg clear elbow flange on the end of the new hose. It fits through the hole.

Additionally, to MOJOJOJO's caution to "Just go slow and do a fit Check often, check often ,and be sure to do a fit check often." I can only remember my dad once saying "I cut this thing three times and it's STILL too short!"

[edcronin01]

I also have a Sunseeker not sure of what sewer hose you have. I use a Rhino brand and the ears were too large to go through the hole. I simply ground a little bit off each ear (the part that attaches to motorhome dump valve) and the hose is still easy to attach and unhook. I guess I took off only 1/16 of an inch off each ear took me less than 2 minutes and costs nothing.

[hunt247]

I do love the rhino flex hose and I have the same problem on my 3170DS compartment. The simple solution is to twist the un-lock ring on the Rhino fitting and unscrew it from the pipe. The hose will fit thru the opening and then you can re-attach the end.

[Kevin & Judy]

Just trim a little bit off of each tab and it fits with no problem.