I already have 2 100 watt Renogy roof mounted solar panels and am adding a 3rd. I want to be able to remove them easily if needed as I had to remove and replace 2 panels under warranty for snail tracks already. I had used Stickyfeet along with one drywall mount per foot and 3M 5200 marine adhesive caulk. They have an easy 1 bolt separating the mount for removal. I would have gone with the Stickyfeet again, but the new panel will be up front and be subjected to much more wind force as the others are somewhat blocked by the air conditioner. It has been suggested that I use 1/8" 1 1/2" aluminum angle iron and make my own. I bought the aluminum and have drawn out where to cut and drill. The Stickyfeet has 3" base and uses only 3M VHB tape to secure it to the roof. I added a drywall mount to each for added strength. On the one I am making, I have drawn them to 4" will also use 3M VHB tape and either the drywall mount or well nut. Not sure if I will use 1 or 2 per mount base and wether 4 or 6 mounts. Photos below show the 2 types of devices to secure to roof.
What are your thoughts? Obviously, 2 per mount and 6 sets for the panel may be over kill.
I have done 4 5ths wheels now with solar. I use 2 inch AL angle cut about 1 1/2 inch wide. #14 x 3/4 single wood screw in roof and 2 #8 self taping screw into panel frame. One of these on each corner. Seal up with dicor and done. Panels can be easily removed by removing the 4 self tap screws. Never lost a panel yet.
Here is a photo of the new mounts in progress. Just have to drill one or two holes per mount for either the drywall mounts or the well nuts and then cut to size. My roof is made of very thin dimpled fiberglass maybe a 1/32" thick and 1/8" luan plywood. The rest of the roof is styrofoam. Not a lot to secure to and FR did suggest the drywall mounts. I added a photo from another post showing how thin the roof real is.
Attached are photos of the StickyFeet using only 3M VHB tape, a drywall mount and caulked over with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive caulk.
Did get some feedback using PM, and I thank you. Here are some photos of the finished mounts I made. I used well nuts and will mount them on the roof and the mount will fit over them. I drilled out the holes on the mount so that the entire well nut fits thru it. It will be secured by the washer and bolt to flare out the well nut. I will also apply 3M VHB double side tape and cover it all with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive caulk and Dicor over that when cured.
Here is a photo of the new mounts in progress. Just have to drill one or two holes per mount for either the drywall mounts or the well nuts and then cut to size. My roof is made of very thin dimpled fiberglass maybe a 1/32" thick and 1/8" luan plywood. The rest of the roof is styrofoam. Not a lot to secure to and FR did suggest the drywall mounts. I added a photo from another post showing how thin the roof real is.
Attached are photos of the StickyFeet using only 3M VHB tape, a drywall mount and caulked over with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive caulk.
3M 5200 is permanent marine adhesive and is designed for permanent installation on hull to deck joints that will never come apart. 4100 is the product that is general duty adhesive sealant.
3M 5200 is permanent marine adhesive and is designed for permanent installation on hull to deck joints that will never come apart. 4100 is the product that is general duty adhesive sealant.
Trust me, if you use 4200, it will be “permanent” BUT in the event you do have to remove it, it can be done without ripping off the section where it is attached. I use 5200 VERY sparingly.
Thanks MarinerJoe, I decided 3M 5200 was overkill and ordered the 4200. Plus the 5200 has a 7 day cure and the 4200 has 24 hours. I have also decided to go with 6 mounts for the panel and only use well nuts on 4 of them. The center ones will just have 3M VHB tape and covered with 4200. It's raining here the next few days in SoCal so the final mounting will have to wait until later this week.
Below are the finished mount some on the panel.
Personally, I would not use well nuts, especially only one. A professional installer strongly suggested not to use them. I would do 3 lag screws into the wood before I would use those.
Personally, I would not use well nuts, especially only one. A professional installer strongly suggested not to use them. I would do 3 lag screws into the wood before I would use those.
Lag screws will have nothing to grab on to, fiberglass and luan plywood are less than 3/16" thick total. As you probably know well nuts will tighten in hole and mushroom to give a secure mount. I have tried testing it and I was not able with a great deal of force able to pull it out of a piece of 1/4 plywood. With 3M VHB tape and 3M 4200 Marine adhesive caulk, the roof will come off before the panel and mount ever would. 2 shops I went to would use well nuts on my kind of roof. Also, Renogy who makes my panel suggested using well nuts to attach the mount for their "Z" bracket, it's on page 18 of that manual. Perhaps yours is different especially if it's a trailer where there is a thicker plywood base. There are many ways to mount the panels and some are more secure and work better than others.
This is so strong with 6 mounts. Just need to apply 3M 4200 over it today and it's done. Say what you want, it's not coming off. Remember, some only use the 3M VHB tape. This has both tape and well nut. Total cost was about $45 6ir 6 but could have made 8 as I have left over angle iron and made 1 set experimenting.
Finished up this morning applying a good coat of 3M 4200. Totally sealed and needs to cure for 24 hours. Did notice that my max output this time of the year and flat on the roof vs tilted is 3.4amps. Maximum is 5.29. Getting 10 amps at noon currently with 3 100 watt panels.
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