Manually Leveling a Class C

[lvoorhees]

I use a Level Mate Pro (LMP) with Harbor Freight leveler ramps for the front and Camco heavy duty leveling blocks for the dual wheels. When pulling into a campsite, I normally can find a spot with the LMP where I do not need the leveling blocks. The LMP makes leveling front to back using the ramps a cinch.

https://www.amazon.com/LogicBlue-Tec...s%2C138&sr=8-4

https://www.harborfreight.com/three-...mps-56156.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BDenn]

I like the looks of the Harbor Freight ramp. I might try these. Close to 4 inch rise.

[Tombsy]

Originally Posted by PoppySteve

Like em?

For sure, they are holding up fine and they are light to carry and move around.

[phillyg]

I used any combination of legos or wood blocks I could put together.

[Hamerjk]

I use the double wide level blocks. Have the curved one hate them. They seem to slide and do not stay in place. Also I use level mate pro and see where to put my blocks at to level. I do have auto leveling but want to level my motorhome with blocks so I do not lift any of my wheels off the ground. Safest way to level, been do this for many many years. Happy Camping!!!

[Hamerjk]

I use both the double wide and single Lego's. Love them both use the double. Also use the level mate pro to find the most level spot and how many and where to place. Makes it a lot easier.

[Tireman9]

I have a 24' Class-C. Made my own blocks as most retail blocks are too narrow to support the entire tread contact patch.
I made 4 like this.


My test size template.


These pictures show what NOT TO DO.
Too narrow




Off center



Just Right


Be sure the support is wide enough for both duals.

[jamesroadking]

Your Absorption RV Refrigerator are really expensive to repair and even more expensive to replace. I had 2 fail, over the last 15 years.
The issue is, you need to keep your refrigerator within 3 degree level side to side and 6 degrees fore and aft if you park more than 20 to 30 minutes.
(I might have the side to side, and the forward and aft mixed up, I use 2 degrees, either way, to be safe)
What I did after purchasing my latest class C that has a big heavy, 4 ft wide full wall slide out that came without any kind of leveling system, When I first got the RV I park level, let's say on a concrete pad, then when I'd put out the slide-out the E450's suspension would compress on the driver's side of the RV and the whole RV would be leaning over a little. So, I ended up having a Bigfoot leveling system installed. Each jack can lift 8k lbs. So the 4 jacks can easily level my 14K lb. class C. How I even carry a Spare Tire, I can use the leveling jacks to get a wheel off the ground easily.
I ended up gluing on a old fashon bubble site-level gauges on my dash for side to side leveling and a second bubble gauge on the engine cover for the fore and aft leveling, so when I park somewhere while sitting in the driver's seat now I can level the RV real quick.
I have since come across a Bubble Level App that I have now loaded on my
I-phone that actually shows me the actual out of level to a tenth of a degree how out of level your phone is, so just hold your phone fore and aft or side to side on something inside your RV that you how is the same level with the refrigerator and you'll get a real acturate level read out.

[WAORGANY]

Originally Posted by jamesroadking

Your Absorption RV Refrigerator are really expensive to repair and even more expensive to replace. I had 2 fail, over the last 15 years.
The issue is, you need to keep your refrigerator within 3 degree level side to side and 6 degrees fore and aft if you park more than 20 to 30 minutes.
(I might have the side to side, and the forward and aft mixed up, I use 2 degrees, either way, to be safe)
What I did after purchasing my latest class C that has a big heavy, 4 ft wide full wall slide out that came without any kind of leveling system, When I first got the RV I park level, let's say on a concrete pad, then when I'd put out the slide-out the E450's suspension would compress on the driver's side of the RV and the whole RV would be leaning over a little. So, I ended up having a Bigfoot leveling system installed. Each jack can lift 8k lbs. So the 4 jacks can easily level my 14K lb. class C. How I even carry a Spare Tire, I can use the leveling jacks to get a wheel off the ground easily.
I ended up gluing on a old fashon bubble site-level gauges on my dash for side to side leveling and a second bubble gauge on the engine cover for the fore and aft leveling, so when I park somewhere while sitting in the driver's seat now I can level the RV real quick.
I have since come across a Bubble Level App that I have now loaded on my
I-phone that actually shows me the actual out of level to a tenth of a degree how out of level your phone is, so just hold your phone fore and aft or side to side on something inside your RV that you how is the same level with the refrigerator and you'll get a real acturate level read out.

Thanks, I understand the need to have the RV level, but like the thread said manually leveling? I am not adding an automatic leveling system and jacks to get it level. I already have one app that I use as a level, I will look for the one you talk about thanks again, cheers.

[Piney]

Originally Posted by PoppySteve

I am also curious about the double wide lego blocks for the rear. Anyone have any experience with these?

I use single wide "lego blocks" for the fronts and double wide for the rears for my Freelander 32DS Class C

[Bezzola]

I bought four scissor jacks works great 2 under the hitch and 2 under the frame just behind the front tires