Manually Leveling a Class C

[WAORGANY]

Just curious what everyones suggestions for manually leveling a 32' class C? New to the C world coming from a 5th'r and still learning the ropes. Want to buy something before our up coming trip and looking for best suggestions, tips, techniques, advice and so forth? Thanks in advance, cheers.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by WAORGANY

Just curious what everyones suggestions for manually leveling a 32' class C? New to the C world coming from a 5th'r and still learning the ropes. Want to buy something before our up coming trip and looking for best suggestions, tips, techniques, advice and so forth? Thanks in advance, cheers.

To those with a leveling system manual leveling means that you do not use the automatic feature. If you do not have that option manual leveling means the use of dimensional lumber, lego blocks and/or tri-step ramps. Make it easy with a LevelMate Pro, carry a bubble level or install some bubbles on both axis.

Class C’s are inherently nose down so 99% of the time you will be using your erector set under the fronts. Look for uphill sites (rare).

[NoviBill]

I use the “Lego” leveling bock (2 sets of 10) and a bought a stall mat and cut it in strips to the width of one block and the length of 2.5, this helps stabilize the blocks on grave/dirt and keeps them from sliding on pavement.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...QaAvgtEALw_wcB

Camco 44510 Heavy Duty Leveling Blocks, Ideal for Leveling Single and Dual Wheels, Hydraulic Jacks, Tongue Jacks and Tandem Axles (10 Pack, Frustration-Free Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072VSBLH7...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[WAORGANY]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

To those with a leveling system manual leveling means that you do not use the automatic feature.

Thanks, I know what leveling automatic and manual mean, I don't have auto levelers or other.

I am looking for what options others w/o these built in systems use to level their C? (wood, lego style blocks, drive up ramps, curved levelers with wedges, etc...)

What works best everyone, what doesn't work, what works easiest, what is the most cost effective etc...


Thanks again.

[WAORGANY]

Originally Posted by NoviBill

I use the “Lego” leveling bock (2 sets of 10) and a bought a stall mat and cut it in strips to the width of one block and the length of 2.5, this helps stabilize the blocks on grave/dirt and keeps them from sliding on pavement.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...QaAvgtEALw_wcB

Camco 44510 Heavy Duty Leveling Blocks, Ideal for Leveling Single and Dual Wheels, Hydraulic Jacks, Tongue Jacks and Tandem Axles (10 Pack, Frustration-Free Packaging) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072VSBLH7...ing=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks I am leaning towards these, maybe the double wide ones for the duals in the rear, or the curved ones you drive up then wedge in place.

Do you usually level one side, just the front? Thanks

[NoviBill]

Originally Posted by WAORGANY

Thanks I am leaning towards these, maybe the double wide ones for the duals in the rear, or the curved ones you drive up then wedge in place.

Do you usually level one side, just the front? Thanks

I try to level both front to back and side to side. So depending on how level the site is, I block accordingly. Private campgrounds on average are good, at most 1-2 inches off, Yellowstone NP I was in a site that was 7 inches lower in back than front, that was all of my blocks and only one side of the dually (not recommended).

I have not tried the curved leveling blocks, I would guess for sub 3" issues they would be good.

[KNMIB]

We have gone to the 3 height drive up step ramps. The front is usually low but on occasion we have to do one of the back side dual wheels. When we pull in the wife has a level we set on our level center counter. It shows front to back and side to side we then put ramps down where needed and drive up. The process takes us about 5 minutes, like said most of the time its the front. It is so quick and simple I decided to not spend the money for auto levelers. Now we are 28 foot, if you are a lot longer it may be different. Many times we dont have to level. Sorry I dont have a ramp type picture. Safe travels to all.

[Tombsy]

I use the Levelmate Pro and Lego blocks, I can pull into the campsite and find the best position using the LevelMatePRO and it will tell me how many inches of blocks I need for the wheels before leaving the drivers seat.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by WAORGANY

Thanks, I know what leveling automatic and manual mean, I don't have auto levelers or other.
I am looking for what options others w/o these built in systems use to level their C? (wood, lego style blocks, drive up ramps, curved levelers with wedges, etc...)
What works best everyone, what doesn't work, what works easiest, what is the most cost effective etc...

Just clarifying. Just because I have leveling does not mean that I do not use legos, lumber and ramps. I use all 3 as appropriate. Level means level. If you only do one axis and the other is off you are not level.
I find the fastest and easiest for the front are these:
https://www.campingworld.com/tri-lev...low-94955.html
For the rears, legos or lumber.
The most cost effective used to be lumber but I doubt that is true these days.

I have never seen anyone use the curved ramps on a MH.

[vasnipe]

On a "level" for everyone else site I use four 2X12" blocks to overcome the downward stance of my E-450 chassis. That consists of a base board of about 2 ft long and another about 18" long, stacked and staggered, one set per wheel. That can raise the nose by the three inches needed to level nose to tail. I carry six sets of 2X12 blocks, four for the duals and the pair for the front wheels. If I need more than that I'm looking for a more level spot.
I try to get the 2X12 as "cull" lumber from Home Depot or Lowe's ie boards that have split or twisted part way so that they can't sell as a full board. That has been difficult lately since for some reason they haven't had much cull pulled aside. So in my meanderings I look for new home construction sites and ask if they have scrap they might part with. The 2X12 yellow pine joist and stair stringer boards work quite well.
I don't worry about treated lumber since they aren't down long enough to affect them and the ones I use are close to 12 years old.



Good luck and safe travels.


Chris in Virginia

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by WAORGANY

Just curious what everyones suggestions for manually leveling a 32' class C? New to the C world coming from a 5th'r and still learning the ropes. Want to buy something before our up coming trip and looking for best suggestions, tips, techniques, advice and so forth? Thanks in advance, cheers.

Often it just depends. As a 30.5' Class C owner of 16 years, I only use Lego type of leveling blocks in extreme situations - most campgrounds I visit have very level pads, even if just gravel or dirt. If your boondocking, that's another matter.

In general, I don't find leveling is necessary at private, state, or COE rv sites. Your paying something and they usually provide a fairly level pad. There are exceptions

I never level for lunch breaks, just find an acceptable parking location.

For the night :

My philosophy is I don't want walking in the coach to be like walking through a fun house at an amusement park or have the bathroom door slamming shut or banging open either, so I'll level to within an acceptable degree and let it go at that.

Got a level, rarely use it. When I have used it is useful to a point, law of diminishing returns applies.

Btw, I cut a small piece of a pool noodle and put it over the bathroom door handle so if the door does swing open it i's cushioned. If your coach door doesn't have an opener to limit its swing, you may want a piece of pool noodle for the door stop on the coach wall. Unless the coach is perfectly level, door swing will happen.

My favorite blocks have a chock to stop the tire guaranteeing I am at the top but flat interlocking pads work well too. I carry a mix. It helps to have a helper watch if exclusively using flat interlocking pads.

'They say' to use blocks under both duall tires but I never have and have not had any issues, caveat is my leveling block useage is not extreme as far as height goes. If I was going to boondock it, I probably would.

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Just clarifying. Just because I have leveling does not mean that I do not use legos, lumber and ramps. I use all 3 as appropriate. Level means level. If you only do one axis and the other is off you are not level.
I find the fastest and easiest for the front are these:
https://www.campingworld.com/tri-lev...low-94955.html
For the rears, legos or lumber.
The most cost effective used to be lumber but I doubt that is true these days.

I have never seen anyone use the curved ramps on a MH.

I use the “trailer aid” ramps to to raise the front end at a NASCAR CG I frequent. Very level side ways but very low in front. Without the ramp help the front wheels would be airborne. After driving onto the ramps I use four 2x10 boards under the footpads so the jacks don’t have so far to move to finish leveling (more stability). For the rear I only have to extend the jack’s barely enough to touch the ground to prevent bouncing.

I’m on the standby list for a better site but since it took seven years to get this site I’m not very hopeful.

[Reverse_snowbird]

We use the Tri-Lynx Levelers with the Tri-Lynx Wheel Chock. One person can put the levels down and put the Wheel Chock on the chocks and behind the wheel. Without a spotter, it's easy to drive off the back of the levelers and this prevents that. (You want to get levelers that will handle the weight of your rig.)

[PoppySteve]

I am also curious about the double wide lego blocks for the rear. Anyone have any experience with these?

[dougc905]

Similar to vasnipe, I made stacking blocks out of 2x10 pressure treated. They stack three high and connect via dowel pins. The leading edge - where you drive up onto them, is stepped to make it effectively three small steps instead of one big step. I found this was necessary to prevent the blocks from being pushed along the ground when I was trying to drive up onto them. Improvements for the future include cutting slots in the bottom for more traction to prevent slipping.


I have three of these. Usually I place them under the front wheels only. Occasionally I use one on the back to level side to side with two on the front. Changing around the number of blocks allows me to vary the height of each wheel.

[BDenn]

I use 2x12 treated wood. Beveled the edge with the grain. The rear I cut about 22" long one board goes across both dually tires. Front about 10". I think parking with tires across grain will help the wood from splitting. So far 3 years no split wood. If I need anything more than that I have old boards from my trailer to stack, these boards are parked with the grain they split. Fixed this year with threaded rod and nuts, see how it goes. I also put nylon strap handles on, making them easy to handle.

[Canadian Eh]

I have a mix of 3 step, lego and a couple of 4x6 that I cut to create ramps. I also carry some scraps of solid oak flooring. I will put it under the 3 step if I think the base isn't strong enough. One thing is try and park perpendicular to the slope so that you don't need to compensate the height difference from from to back compared to side to side. Not always easy to do.

[Tombsy]

Originally Posted by PoppySteve

I am also curious about the double wide lego blocks for the rear. Anyone have any experience with these?

I use the double wide lego blocks for front and rear leveling.

[bukhrn]

I use the same as NoviBill, they are called Lynx Levelers.

[PoppySteve]

Originally Posted by Tombsy

I use the double wide lego blocks for front and rear leveling.

Like em?