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Old 04-25-2017, 10:08 PM   #301
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I cannot find the post, but did one of you say that their FW monitor only read full or empty? If so, next time you are at the dealer, have them check the wiring. Mine was wired incorrectly from the factory. The tech said that the sequence should be red, yellow green, or vice vs. I did not get a look before he closed it up.
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Old 04-28-2017, 03:41 PM   #302
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Bit The Bullet...

I just broke down and ordered a set of Sunguard™ RV Window-Shades™ for the GTS from the RV Toy Store. I went with the 94% Hi-Density Sunguard in White with Velcro attachments for all the large exterior house windows. I did not order one for the small kitchen window, the bedroom slide out's small side windows or the door window.

I've done a lot of research and this is the "best" solution I could find for trying to keep more heat out in the summer. The price, just under $500, was about the same as having the windows professionally tinted. By ordering the window covers with Velcro I won't need to drill any holes for snaps. But if the Velcro turns out to be a problem the covers do come with snaps installed and the hardware as part of the price.

After measuring the windows, the actual size listed first, and then allowing for a 1-2 inch per side overlap, here are the measurements I used to order:

Dinette Slide out and tall bedroom windows: 37.25 x 19.25
Order Size 40 X 22
Passenger Side Lounge window: 26.25 x 55.25
Order Size 30 X 60
Rear Bedroom Slide out window: 41.25 x 23.5
Order Size 44 X 28

I do not intend to drive with these installed. They will only be put on when necessary or when we are staying somewhere for a longer duration like at the FROG Rally. Putting them on, or taking them off, doesn't look like it will add more than 5-10 minutes to setup or teardown time with the wife and I both working at it.

If this doesn't get the summer heat issues addressed I suspect my next step will be a conversion to 50Amps and a second AC unit in the bedroom... Since these covers are custom made to the sizes you specify I don't have a delivery date yet. I'll update the thread, with pictures, when they arrive and we install them.
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:06 PM   #303
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I forgot to mention this mod I had installed during our spring check up. I had a Fan-Tastic EZ-Breeze Fan installed in the bathroom. The EZ-Breeze design allows the vent to remain open in the rain. Plus it isn't a smart fan so you do not need power to open or close the venting. That took care of the last of the vents on our GTS...
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Old 05-05-2017, 10:23 AM   #304
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I added a Garmin RV660 GPS this week as a backup. Amazon has $100 off for prime members
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Old 05-06-2017, 05:40 PM   #305
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I just added a Garmin as well. Garmin is redoing their Dash Cam line up replacing most of their existing models. So the "old" models are going on Fire Sale prices. I just bought a Garmin Dash Cam™ 35, for $99.00 with Free shipping , and a bean bag base for it to sit on the dash of the GTS. I may use the windshield "hard" mount and hardwire it in later. But the bean bag lets me easily transfer it from the GTS to the TOAD and back depending on which we're driving.

I just took it out and played around with it this afternoon and I was very pleasantly surprised at the high quality the video. Good enough that I'll be using it on the dash on scenic drives as well as for the accident concerns. No need for a GoPro now....
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:17 PM   #306
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I replaced the shower head on the outside shower with a new product I read about. It's called Relaqua Power Boost Spray. It definitely increased the pressure of the outside shower.
Did a video on install and review.
https://youtu.be/n1Sd9HwtPX4
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Old 05-20-2017, 08:35 PM   #307
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Thanks sgtlm17. Very professional.
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:58 AM   #308
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Slide Motor

Thinking about getting a spare slide motor...just in case. We have already had two replaced under warranty and don't want to get stuck somewhere with slide failure. Does anyone know if the 2800/2801 slide motors are the same for all four slides? Does anyone know how to identify our exact slide motors(s) without having to physically remove them? Anyone done this? How much did you have to pay?

Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 06-08-2017, 04:36 PM   #309
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I installed this month's ago but finally did a video on it. It's the Blue Streak Chem Dispenser. It attaches to the toilet and automatically treats the black water holding tank with each flush. Best of all it leaves the bowl water blue.
https://youtu.be/LiFzca2PWU4
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:05 PM   #310
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What size & kind of screws did you use and is there wood behind that wall?
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Old 06-09-2017, 03:30 AM   #311
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I used the supplied screws with the kit which were one inch stainless. The only wood is the Luan panel. The screws hold fine since the reservoir just hangs on wall.
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:53 AM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbdRahim View Post
What size & kind of screws did you use and is there wood behind that wall?
There is very little, if any, wood framing on any of the exterior walls. Since FR uses aluminum framing there is no need for the wood. When we did a plant tour I watched them build an exterior wall and I didn't see any wood placed in it around the framing. I suspect they do put some wood in where the prints call for an anchor point for a interior wall, or a heavy appliance, but that is a just a SWAG on my part.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:06 PM   #313
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What size are the speakers?

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Originally Posted by Tombsy View Post
I finished up installing the Infinity speakers and Dynamat in the doors. Pretty straightforward the door panels are easy to remove once you know where the screws are. (Found a video on YouTube). I still have to road test it but it sounded pretty good parked. I measured the compartment doors and ordered 3 small-slide gas lift kits. One for the sewer door and two for the rear door. Had enough of holding it with my head while loading/unloading our zero gravity chairs
Attachment 123534
Are they 5 X 7? I guess a 6.5 round will not fit from the photo.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:39 PM   #314
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The box is spot welded and glued

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Added Vortex ll fan in bathroom. I had one I bought some years ago for a trailer and never got it installed. I had to use the original vent crank for the convenience of removing the fan without removing the handle. I could not get the switch box off so I just crushed it a little.

Attachment 135380

Go Tomsby. My former boss always used to say "get out there, they are getting away from us.
It will twist off gently.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:06 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles l View Post
Are they 5 X 7? I guess a 6.5 round will not fit from the photo.


The speakers fit 5x7 or 6x8 you might have to do a little trimming for a 6.5 not sure. Someone probably makes an adapter plate to mount a round speaker in an oval hole.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:28 PM   #316
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Air Conditioner

Anyone add an A/C unit over the bed? We are considering adding a non-ducted unit that we could plug direct into the pedestal. Any thoughts? We are in Texas and it gets REALLY hot here.
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Old 06-27-2017, 07:42 PM   #317
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I've discussed adding a second A/C unit with both my local dealer and a couple independent shops. The issues are:

Adding a second A/C means either doing a conversion to 50Amp service or figuring out an easy way to swap the existing AC power between the A/C units to run them one at a time. I looked at going to a 50 Amp service.

All of the existing wiring in the GTS is set up and installed to support a 30Amp service. To convert to 50Amp will require some modifications starting with the power connections on your coach. And the power cord you use to connect to the pedestal.

My plan was to take all the existing AC power wiring and put it on Leg 1 of the 50Amp service. Nothing would move to Leg 2, it would only be used for the second A/C unit. Leg 2 would require a new AC circuit breaker panel to be installed to support the second A/C unit. The independents I discussed this idea with thought that this should be a workable solution. The big advantage is you are not needing to rewire the existing AC power grid in your coach, nothing changes. The disadvantage is you gain no load sharing between the two power legs in a 50Amp service, you are running two separate 30Amp services effectively.. So you could still trip a breaker by turning on your microwave with A/C unit number one running...

If you go to 50 Amps, and run both A/C units at the same time, the location of the existing A/C units thermostat may be a problem. Unit number Two will blow cold air on unit ones thermostat, that could cause some interesting issues for unit one thinking it is too cold.... So plan on moving the existing thermostat.

Adding a second A/C unit will require pulling the required AC power wiring to the bedroom ceiling. Right now there is only wiring for a DC powered fan.

The cost was the deciding factor in not doing this mod, somewhere around $4-5k was the lowest quote I heard...

So we solved this issue, and several others, by down sizing to a smaller coach with much less space to cool. Our new TS should be here in about a month...
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Old 06-27-2017, 09:03 PM   #318
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More 2801 mods

Yikes. I just cover the dinette skylight rear window, windshield, and side cab windows with with Reflectix. The shower skylight is painted white and has a dark vinyl shade on the inside. On really hot days, the windshield and cab side windows also has the outside white cover. I set the A/C at 75 and all seems good. I also have a curtain between the cab and living area. I am thinking of changing to a heavier drape material. Also, there is a second layer of reflective insulation for the windshield, if needed. In very hot weather, I also keep all of the shades closed. Hopefully a class A with 50 amp is in the future, maybe a decade from now if health (financial and physical) allow. Btw, DW always thinks it is too cold, but she is not in it often.

One thing under consideration is a connection for a separate 20 amp line so to run an electric heater in the winter, or the coffeemaker or toaster in the summer without having to turn off the A/C for each cup of coffee, or pice of toast.
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:59 AM   #319
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Quote:
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One thing under consideration is a connection for a separate 20 amp line so to run an electric heater in the winter, or the coffeemaker or toaster in the summer without having to turn off the A/C for each cup of coffee, or pice of toast.
I was also considering adding a couple AC outlets in the kitchen on the 2nd Leg if we had went that route. That would have solved the A/C versus just about anything else issue. Just make sure you do a GFI breaker system to protect you. Accidentally getting between two separate power feeds, with different ground types, could be very bad...
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:29 PM   #320
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What I meant was a separate 20 amp line directly from the pole, using a Norinco plug through the wall of the MH.
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