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Old 06-29-2017, 10:47 PM   #321
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Originally Posted by AbdRahim View Post
What I meant was a separate 20 amp line directly from the pole, using a Norinco plug through the wall of the MH.
That sounds like a great idea and probably wouldn't be that difficult of a project.
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Old 07-05-2017, 05:34 PM   #322
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Has anyone upgraded their headlights? Just wondered if there are any worthwhile changes or mods. I try to avoid traveling at night but I didn't think the stock setup was that great. There are a lot of critters that like to jump out in front of you around here, any advantage would be good.
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:07 PM   #323
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I have not upgraded, but I have thought about adding fog lights, since they extend peripheral vision at night. The light extends further to the side of the road. Fog lights also help a lot to see people who insist on walking at night in dark clothing.
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:02 PM   #324
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Has anyone upgraded their headlights? Just wondered if there are any worthwhile changes or mods. I try to avoid traveling at night but I didn't think the stock setup was that great. There are a lot of critters that like to jump out in front of you around here, any advantage would be good.
SilverStar Ultras... Relatively inexpensive and they add a lot of light. I use them in all my vehicles that are not HID.

If you have DRL's that use the headlight bulb it will reduce the Ultra's life span. Running these bulbs on a reduced voltage as a DRL isn't the best thing for them. This may not be an issue but I'm not sure how Ford did DRL's on the E-450 chassis since I don't have them...
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:41 PM   #325
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What is a DRL?
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:43 PM   #326
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What is a DRL?
Daytime Running Lights
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:55 PM   #327
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Oh. Thanks. Don't have those. I will check out those bulbs. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference they make.
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Old 07-05-2017, 09:31 PM   #328
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Me too, thanks for the link, I do have DRL's but I usually turn the headlights on anyway.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:18 PM   #329
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I've discussed adding a second A/C unit with both my local dealer and a couple independent shops. The issues are:

Adding a second A/C means either doing a conversion to 50Amp service or figuring out an easy way to swap the existing AC power between the A/C units to run them one at a time. I looked at going to a 50 Amp service.

All of the existing wiring in the GTS is set up and installed to support a 30Amp service. To convert to 50Amp will require some modifications starting with the power connections on your coach. And the power cord you use to connect to the pedestal.

My plan was to take all the existing AC power wiring and put it on Leg 1 of the 50Amp service. Nothing would move to Leg 2, it would only be used for the second A/C unit. Leg 2 would require a new AC circuit breaker panel to be installed to support the second A/C unit. The independents I discussed this idea with thought that this should be a workable solution. The big advantage is you are not needing to rewire the existing AC power grid in your coach, nothing changes. The disadvantage is you gain no load sharing between the two power legs in a 50Amp service, you are running two separate 30Amp services effectively.. So you could still trip a breaker by turning on your microwave with A/C unit number one running...

If you go to 50 Amps, and run both A/C units at the same time, the location of the existing A/C units thermostat may be a problem. Unit number Two will blow cold air on unit ones thermostat, that could cause some interesting issues for unit one thinking it is too cold.... So plan on moving the existing thermostat.

Adding a second A/C unit will require pulling the required AC power wiring to the bedroom ceiling. Right now there is only wiring for a DC powered fan.

The cost was the deciding factor in not doing this mod, somewhere around $4-5k was the lowest quote I heard...

So we solved this issue, and several others, by down sizing to a smaller coach with much less space to cool. Our new TS should be here in about a month...
Our local dealer quoted around 1500 to install a non-ducted =) They will put in a breaker and completely bypass all of the existing wiring. Promised no wiring would show and they are putting a plug on the outside that will match our current 30 amp plug. We will just plug the 2nd unit in directly to the pedestal. Hopefully this will happen next week.
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:51 PM   #330
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I'm really curious about this one... They are installing a second, stand alone, 30Amp service for the second A/C unit? If so when you want to use both A/C's are you connecting to the pedestals 50Amp service with a Y-connector splitting the power in to two separate 30Amp feeds?

The advantage of this design is you can use either 30Amp or 50Amp service depending on your A/C needs. The downside is you need two 30Amp power cords, two surge guards; both a 30Amp and a 50Amp, and the Y-splitter. Basically you are doing outside the RV what I was looking at doing inside...but I would have been 50Amp service only. Your plan is definitely more economical...

You may still need to move the thermostat for the OEM unit as your second A/C unit will be blowing cold air down on it...
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:30 PM   #331
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I picked up a Scangauge and decided to do the coin tray mod to mount it. I found a couple pics of someone that had done it and figured it couldn't be that hard lol. Man just getting the thing out of the dash was a battle even with the whole dash trim off and a dash trim tool. There are three metal clips along the top that hold it in and they were pretty stiff. I knew the Scangauge was too big and the opening had to be enlarged, it took a lot of cutting, filing, and sanding but it finally fits like a glove.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-08-2017, 02:03 PM   #332
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Nice.
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:14 PM   #333
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Very nice and yes that tray is a bear to get out
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Old 07-13-2017, 10:23 PM   #334
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I'm really curious about this one... They are installing a second, stand alone, 30Amp service for the second A/C unit? If so when you want to use both A/C's are you connecting to the pedestals 50Amp service with a Y-connector splitting the power in to two separate 30Amp feeds?

The advantage of this design is you can use either 30Amp or 50Amp service depending on your A/C needs. The downside is you need two 30Amp power cords, two surge guards; both a 30Amp and a 50Amp, and the Y-splitter. Basically you are doing outside the RV what I was looking at doing inside...but I would have been 50Amp service only. Your plan is definitely more economical...

You may still need to move the thermostat for the OEM unit as your second A/C unit will be blowing cold air down on it...

Dropped her off at May's RV this morning and picked her up this afternoon. Couldn't be happier! They installed the second unit (non-ducted) and wired to a breaker with an outside plug that looks like it was store bought We have a couple of options for running the second A/C. We can plug into the pedestal via a 30 amp cord and use either an adapter to the 20 amp plug on the pedestal or we could plug into the 30 amp plug and use an adapter to plug the camper into the 50 amp plug. Right now we have it running with the first method and plugged into the house. Cost under $1,400. Hopefully I explained this right And yes, we will have to take 2-30 amp power cords but no biggie. We store our cords in the built in trash can while traveling so the second one won't take up any more storage space. We will still use our Progressive EMS for the camper. Guess we need to consider something similar for the second A/C. As far as the thermostat goes, we will just adjust it as needed. This setup works for us as it keeps us at 30 amps which opens up a lot of the older campgrounds.
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Old 07-14-2017, 05:41 AM   #335
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Just curious but do you forsee any consequences with running two power cords to the CG pedestal from the CG's point of view,such as extra costs for the site? I know there are some CGs that charge extra for A/C,wondering what they might do with dual power lines.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:58 AM   #336
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Hadn't thought about it but we have never stayed anywhere that charged extra for A/C. We do stay places that charge more for 50 amp but it is usually $5. I've never seen a charge for using the 20 amp but I'm sure it could happen. It will be worth the extra during the heat of summer in Texas.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:12 AM   #337
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Just curious but do you forsee any consequences with running two power cords to the CG pedestal from the CG's point of view,such as extra costs for the site? I know there are some CGs that charge extra for A/C,wondering what they might do with dual power lines.
I have never in my life...been to CG that had 2 -30A or 2-50A plugs on the same pedestal. Apparently I don't get around as much as I think.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:40 AM   #338
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I've never seen such either. Around here it is usually one of each.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:45 AM   #339
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I have never in my life...been to CG that had 2 -30A or 2-50A plugs on the same pedestal. Apparently I don't get around as much as I think.
Hmmm... I haven't seen one either but my understanding pcryer was running 2 lines one to 50 amp with adapter and second to 30 amp
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Old 07-18-2017, 07:30 PM   #340
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Recently added one of these myself - $558 for the carrier plus the wheel and the tire ran around $800. I think well worth the investment! Personally I had 3 flats on my previous motorhome (a Solera) in the past 6 years and the last thing anyone wants to do is be stuck w/out a spare. Fortunately I have no rear slide so don't have that issue.

Hope you are still hanging around these forums as I have a question on the tire carrier. We have to do something. Had a flat this weekend and the nut and bolt that held the spare up came stripped from the factory Ended up calling roadside assistance and they had to use an impact wrench to get it off. Needless to say it is no bueno now. Could you tell me the height of this unit from the top of the receiver hitch to the top of your tire (I am assuming 16" tires)? We have a rear slide but it is pretty high. Thanks for any help.
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