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Old 08-08-2018, 05:39 AM   #1
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No ice

On my 2014, 3050S with four door fridge the ice maker is not making ice. I can see air in the water lines. I replaced the solenoid thinking that was the problem. It wasnít. Suggestions?
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:10 AM   #2
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When you took the supply line off the solenoid...did water come out? Is the feed turned on? Some units have a shutoff valve between the PEX and the 1/4 inch water line to the reefer.

Beyond that, the icemaker may not be asking for water and is either turned off or has a problem firing the valve. Does it appear to cycle anyway. On most units you can hear the valve fire and the ice drop.
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:26 AM   #3
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Yes water came out when I disconnected the supply line, the clear 1/4” line. Yes the gears turn and acts like it will dump ice but no ice.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:01 AM   #4
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I think something is wrong with supply line. I can see air in the line.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:25 AM   #5
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Check the supply line entering the ice make to make sure it's not frozen.
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Old 08-09-2018, 06:55 AM   #6
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When you say the "supply line" do you mean the line to the valve from your water supply or the line to the icemaker from the valve?

It is generally hard for the line to the icemaker to freeze since it goes to a channel in the cold icemaker section and not to an actual line. You could take it off or put a separate piece of line in the valve and see if water comes out during the normal cycle.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:22 AM   #7
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If there in no water and only air in the lines..."before" the solenoid, I'd say there in an issue in the supply line from the source. As mentioned earlier...valve shut off on supply line ?? or is there no power to solenoid and it's not opening and it's trapped air in the line ?
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
When you say the "supply line" do you mean the line to the valve from your water supply or the line to the icemaker from the valve?

It is generally hard for the line to the icemaker to freeze since it goes to a channel in the cold icemaker section and not to an actual line. You could take it off or put a separate piece of line in the valve and see if water comes out during the normal cycle.
Where the water line enters the freezer before it dumps into the spout to fill the icemaker. I have experienced this part of the "Supply Line" freeze. This might not be the problem, but break it down. Water enters a shut off valve. Open? Yes. Water continues to solenoid. Replaced, yes. Water continues through the tubing through freezer wall to ice maker. If ice maker is calling for water and not getting it, you have a restriction, blockage, crimped line, etc. What's your thoughts?
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:30 AM   #9
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Quick question. Did you have ice and now don't.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:44 AM   #10
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all true, but you don't know that the icemaker is calling for water and actually powering the solenoid. You can run it with another short tube to a mason jar and wait and see if there is any water in the jar. The water line to the icemaker itself generally goes to a fitting on the warm side of the freezer. From there the water flows in a plastic trough that is pretty immune to actually forming an ice block. You can look for one right at the fitting or remove the line from the solenoid and see if you can blow through it.

If that line is plugged the supply line will generally blow itself off the back of the reefer since it is only friction fit into the fitting on the outside wall of the freezer. Not your unit, but the concept is the same....
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:49 AM   #11
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I did have ice.
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:41 AM   #12
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all true, but you don't know that the icemaker is calling for water and actually powering the solenoid. You can run it with another short tube to a mason jar and wait and see if there is any water in the jar. The water line to the icemaker itself generally goes to a fitting on the warm side of the freezer. From there the water flows in a plastic trough that is pretty immune to actually forming an ice block. You can look for one right at the fitting or remove the line from the solenoid and see if you can blow through it.



If that line is plugged the supply line will generally blow itself off the back of the reefer since it is only friction fit into the fitting on the outside wall of the freezer. Not your unit, but the concept is the same....


Iím of the current thought that the solenoid is not getting power to initiate water. I bleed the air out of main water supply to solenoid so there is no longer an air bubble in that line. However on the other line which goes to ice maker has an bubble. Where would the power to solenoid come from?
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:43 AM   #13
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[QUOTE=DrJMB;1895727]I did have ice.[/ím of the current thought that the solenoid is not getting power to initiate water. I bleed the air out of main water supply to solenoid so there is no longer an air bubble in that line. However on the other line which goes to ice maker has an bubble. Where would the power to solenoid come from?
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:56 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=DrJMB;1895779]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJMB View Post
I did have ice.[/ím of the current thought that the solenoid is not getting power to initiate water. I bleed the air out of main water supply to solenoid so there is no longer an air bubble in that line. However on the other line which goes to ice maker has an bubble. Where would the power to solenoid come from?
Usually gets 110 volts from a switch in the icemaker...on a residential unit. can't remember what kind of unit you have. If it is an LP/AC unit, that might be 12 volts, since they don't need 110 to operate. The solenoid valve you took out should say. If it is 110V, you can test fire it with a cheater cord, just don't fire it for more than a couple of seconds, since the volume of the tray is not that high.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:02 PM   #15
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Funny, I looked up Dometic 4 door reefer icemaker valve and it is 110 volts. Does that mean it doesn't make ice without shore power???? Strange.


are you connected to shore power???
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:19 PM   #16
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Yes 110v 60hz 36w.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:52 PM   #17
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Disconnect the wires and use a cheater.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:11 PM   #18
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The RM1350 refer icemaker is 120 AC only. It actually has a seperate AC power cord than the rest of the refer. All icemaker functions are controlled by the icemaker unit itself. The water solenoid is 120AC, as mentioned best way to test is to use a cheater cord. Do not energize the solenoid for more than about 30 seconds at a time due to heat buildup.
If you are getting power to the icemaker I would look at the timer in the icemaker to see if it is cycling. There should be test/jumper terminals on the icemaker motor assembly to initiate the different cycles. It works the same as most residential units. You can download the manual and wiring prints at Dometics site.
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:12 AM   #19
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I replaced the ice maker. Now it works again
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