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Old 10-07-2024, 04:43 PM   #1
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No start 2018 sunseeker chevy chassis

Hi,
This is my first post. I have a Sunseeker 2860 RDS with a Chevy 4500 chassis and I think it's possessed. I had an intermittent start problem we have changed out her starter and her solenoid on the firewall she started in ran. I thought we were over the hump now we are back to where we started. Bought a brand new Battery is at 13.7 volts we tried shifting to neutral and starting I've checked all the connections I cannot get it to turn over. The solenoid clicks but the starter won't spin and engage. Anyone know is there something I'm missing? I also want to hear a click in the back of the RV when I start it and usually of that click is there it will start I'm not hearing the click now sounds like it's where the fuse panel is under the bed in the back please. if anyone can help it would be appreciated.
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Old 10-07-2024, 06:08 PM   #2
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Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Motorhome section's Forester and Sunseeker sub-forum since the OP's questions are specific to a Sunseeker motorhome chassis and not general tech questions.
Also for better help from other Sunseeker owners and possible factory support.
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Old 10-10-2024, 10:38 AM   #3
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Hmmm, I'd expected to see a response or two to this thread by now.

If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn over, it's possible there is sufficient current to engage the solenoid but not turn the starter.

This could be caused by a bad battery or cable connection. Despite having a new battery, the cable to the starter could be corroded internally or have a bad crimp on one or more of the terminals. Likewise, electricity needs a full circuit, so the ground cable may be an issue as well.

While someone is holding the key in the start position, wiggle the battery cables at the battery terminals as well as the ground point, and perhaps on the starter solenoid.

I had a no-start situation as well, but mine differed in several aspects:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...is-278791.html

Good luck; let us know what you find!
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Old 10-10-2024, 08:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc View Post
Hmmm, I'd expected to see a response or two to this thread by now.

If the solenoid clicks but the starter doesn't turn over, it's possible there is sufficient current to engage the solenoid but not turn the starter.

This could be caused by a bad battery or cable connection. Despite having a new battery, the cable to the starter could be corroded internally or have a bad crimp on one or more of the terminals. Likewise, electricity needs a full circuit, so the ground cable may be an issue as well.

While someone is holding the key in the start position, wiggle the battery cables at the battery terminals as well as the ground point, and perhaps on the starter solenoid.

I had a no-start situation as well, but mine differed in several aspects:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...is-278791.html

Good luck; let us know what you find!
Not sure if the Sunseeker on the Chevy chassis is the same as my Ford E450 chassis, but is there a Battery Boost switch that bridges both the chassis and house batteries together to help boost the voltage in either direction?
It’s like a built in jumper cables between your batteries.
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Old 10-10-2024, 08:44 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Higgy View Post
Hi,
This is my first post. I have a Sunseeker 2860 RDS with a Chevy 4500 chassis. I also want to hear a click in the back of the RV when I start it and usually of that click is there it will start I'm not hearing the click now sounds like it's where the fuse panel is under the bed in the back please. if anyone can help it would be appreciated.
I’m not familiar with this click you’re mentioning from the back of the RV.
I have a Sunseeker on the Ford E450 chassis, and I’m not aware of any click during my starting sequence.
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Old 10-14-2024, 10:52 AM   #6
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The Chevy chassis also has the battery boost switch, located in the left side of the driver's seat base. The systems are very similar across platforms.

Regarding the click in the back of the coach; I've never heard a click in mine.
One idea is that it might be the solenoid in the battery control center (BCC) that manages the connections between the coach and house electrical systems.

There may be a click in the converter/charger/breaker/fuse module at the foot of the bed as well; I've never heard clicks from this module, but then, my 68 year old ears aren't quite what they used to be, nor have I tried to listen for clicks from either of those locations.

Try removing the outboard cable at the battery positive; that's the cable that runs to the BCC. Make sure the connections at the battery and starter are clean and tight.
As I mentioned in my first reply, check the ground as well.
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Old 10-14-2024, 11:15 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Not sure if the Sunseeker on the Chevy chassis is the same as my Ford E450 chassis, but is there a Battery Boost switch that bridges both the chassis and house batteries together to help boost the voltage in either direction?
It’s like a built in jumper cables between your batteries.
Ours has that button as well and doesn't help.
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Old 10-14-2024, 11:19 AM   #8
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I have tried that... still wont start. I read there is a frame mounted battery on these chevy chassis (no clue it was there) That can interfere with starting. It closes the relay when trying to start if that battery is dead. If and when it stops raining and I am going to remove it and see if it will start then. Wish me luck
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Old 10-14-2024, 11:22 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by brucemc View Post
The Chevy chassis also has the battery boost switch, located in the left side of the driver's seat base. The systems are very similar across platforms.

Regarding the click in the back of the coach; I've never heard a click in mine.
One idea is that it might be the solenoid in the battery control center (BCC) that manages the connections between the coach and house electrical systems.

There may be a click in the converter/charger/breaker/fuse module at the foot of the bed as well; I've never heard clicks from this module, but then, my 68 year old ears aren't quite what they used to be, nor have I tried to listen for clicks from either of those locations.

Try removing the outboard cable at the battery positive; that's the cable that runs to the BCC. Make sure the connections at the battery and starter are clean and tight.
As I mentioned in my first reply, check the ground as well.
Thank you. I will try this all as well. I will keep you posted appreciate the help.
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Old 10-14-2024, 11:28 AM   #10
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post #3

won't hurt to clean all the battery terminals and cable LUGS
make sure good connection on all of them

find if there is a negative cable/strap connection to the Block
make sure that is good and no corrosion

GM put out a bulletin.. to remove the star washer from under any ground connection
scrape away paint from that connection so you get metal to metal contact then paint over the top of the lug and frame ...
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Old 10-14-2024, 12:38 PM   #11
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Good point on the ground strap between the engine and frame, Aussieguy! That's necessary to get a complete circuit/path from battery to starter and back.

I've been all over underneath, and the only other battery I've found is the coach batteries, which are in the step well. There's no other batteries save the coach battery under the hood, at least on our 2015 chassis.

I've read of someone that had a hidden frame mounted battery... but I'd think that's rare. I'd think...
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Old 10-14-2024, 09:39 PM   #12
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Not familiar with Chevy. On my Mercedes Sprinter, as I understand from the Sprinter forum, the engine control computer looks for a number of conditions (suspect gear position and several others I don’t know) before it allows the key to actuate the starter relay, which in turn energizes the starter solenoid.
Don’t know if Chevy does anything similar.

FYI, Jim
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Old 10-18-2024, 02:56 AM   #13
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Summer 1978, we bought a new Chevy 3/4t pickup. Among the many defects we experienced were many "no start" situations. My wife was 6 months pregnant and this was in hot as hell Phoenix, AZ. The Chevy dealership was clueless as to what was the cause. We took a huge loss on the truck trading it in after just 6 months of terrified ownership. GM ultimately determined the cause of all these "no start" issues people were having was a copper bolt on the heavy duty starter. According to GM, heat would cause the copper bolt to expand enough so that the electrical connection at the starter could not sustain the high current needed to turn over the engine. The fix was to add a thick nylon washer to that copper bolt to take up the slack when it expanded due to heating. By the time GM figured this out, we had traded the truck in for another brand. Might I suggest you check your engine's starter? It may be missing that requisite nylon washer.
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Old 10-18-2024, 08:24 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by brucemc View Post
The Chevy chassis also has the battery boost switch, located in the left side of the driver's seat base. The systems are very similar across platforms.

Regarding the click in the back of the coach; I've never heard a click in mine.
One idea is that it might be the solenoid in the battery control center (BCC) that manages the connections between the coach and house electrical systems.

There may be a click in the converter/charger/breaker/fuse module at the foot of the bed as well; I've never heard clicks from this module, but then, my 68 year old ears aren't quite what they used to be, nor have I tried to listen for clicks from either of those locations.

Try removing the outboard cable at the battery positive; that's the cable that runs to the BCC. Make sure the connections at the battery and starter are clean and tight.
As I mentioned in my first reply, check the ground as well.
.

The OP said there two clicks, the starter solenoid and ? to the rear. The rear may be the fuel pump that comes on with the ignition. That is normal. As for lack of power, your suggestions are worth noting, but I would take a step further.

We were vying for a vehicle at auction . The auctioneer stated that the battery and the positive cable had been replaced just before the sale. But when it came time to demonstrate, nothing but a solenoid click. The vehicle sold for less. We didn't start the bidding, but we were the winning bid. We drove the vehicle home after a jump start.

I chased the connections as you suggested and found a less than ten dollar fix. The ground cable was corroded within and was not allowing consistent current flow. Having replace the ground cable was the simple permanent fix. It never failed starting. Since that time, I have a jump starter available. that I have used on vehicles and equipment and it has paid for itself in a bind.
Recently bought a compact jumper.

Albeit the starter or any electrical that has a power gremlin, it is quite often a ground problem and should be a suggested starting point.

I recall one other incident where out Silverado suddenly acquired a parasitic drain. Three times in the shop and we were told there was nothing wrong. Well, there was. It turned out to be the dome light that stayed on when closing the door. The light went out as it should, but it still drained the battery. Just by chance, I turned off the dome light feature-problem solved.
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Old 10-18-2024, 08:35 AM   #15
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Summer 1978, we bought a new Chevy 3/4t pickup. Among the many defects we experienced were many "no start" situations. My wife was 6 months pregnant and this was in hot as hell Phoenix, AZ. The Chevy dealership was clueless as to what was the cause. We took a huge loss on the truck trading it in after just 6 months of terrified ownership. GM ultimately determined the cause of all these "no start" issues people were having was a copper bolt on the heavy duty starter. According to GM, heat would cause the copper bolt to expand enough so that the electrical connection at the starter could not sustain the high current needed to turn over the engine. The fix was to add a thick nylon washer to that copper bolt to take up the slack when it expanded due to heating. By the time GM figured this out, we had traded the truck in for another brand. Might I suggest you check your engine's starter? It may be missing that requisite nylon washer.
Things have changed a lot in 40 yrs .
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Old 10-18-2024, 09:29 AM   #16
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Things have changed a lot in 40 yrs .
but not the principle for a starter motor.

today's starters work the same way as the ones I replaced in the 70's

ignition key send power to solenoid via tiny signal wire
solenoid provides full battery power to starter motor
only thing different I see is Chevy has better BOLT location ... so much easier to undo a Chevy starter than a Ford or Holden

but symptoms are the same for any bad starter... from 1970's or 2024

one click on solenoid and nothing else indicates a possible starter problem, could be mechanical or electric problem braided wire on the starter can be corroded out ... contacts inside solenoid bad

multiple clicks from solenoid or slow cranking indicates a battery problem

No click indicates electrical problem ... start checking battery voltage and connections at battery ignition switch and solenoid signal wire and finally the solenoid

even today's modern Chevy style starters still has the battery connections where you can jump them with a screw driver to bypass a faulty solenoid
(if you brave enough to get under there and try it)

just replaced one on a 2011 Suburban ... in son's car day before Milton hit
It looks, exact same style and size and would probably fit into my 1989 5.7 Chevy boat motor.

BTW when I changed the CHEVY starter on the suburban
with just a 13 mm socket and long extension + breaker bar , a screw driver to pry off the signal wire clip... didn't even need to jack up the suburban , just scoot under and it takes about 20 -30 minutes.
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Old 10-18-2024, 05:15 PM   #17
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The other thing to think about is don't count out the possibility that you got a defective new starter. As a auto tech of 20 years in a previous life you don't have any idea how many times that one bit me. You thought you would have a diagnosis right put in the new part and no go. Then the mind would get all messed up.
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Old 10-19-2024, 12:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Aussieguy View Post
but not the principle for a starter motor.

today's starters work the same way as the ones I replaced in the 70's

ignition key send power to solenoid via tiny signal wire
solenoid provides full battery power to starter motor
only thing different I see is Chevy has better BOLT location ... so much easier to undo a Chevy starter than a Ford or Holden

but symptoms are the same for any bad starter... from 1970's or 2024

one click on solenoid and nothing else indicates a possible starter problem, could be mechanical or electric problem braided wire on the starter can be corroded out ... contacts inside solenoid bad

multiple clicks from solenoid or slow cranking indicates a battery problem

No click indicates electrical problem ... start checking battery voltage and connections at battery ignition switch and solenoid signal wire and finally the solenoid

even today's modern Chevy style starters still has the battery connections where you can jump them with a screw driver to bypass a faulty solenoid
(if you brave enough to get under there and try it)

just replaced one on a 2011 Suburban ... in son's car day before Milton hit
It looks, exact same style and size and would probably fit into my 1989 5.7 Chevy boat motor.

BTW when I changed the CHEVY starter on the suburban
with just a 13 mm socket and long extension + breaker bar , a screw driver to pry off the signal wire clip... didn't even need to jack up the suburban , just scoot under and it takes about 20 -30 minutes.
You guys can go off in the craziest directions . I was referring to his defect with the washer and the starter . A lot has changed in 40 yrs . never said anything about the general principle of how the starter works or the solenoid except today most solenoids are not hung on the engine compartment but attached to the starter . I went through Milton also . Haven't had to change out a starter in 30 yrs that includes trucks I've owned since new with over 200,000++ miles ... The starters are a lot better today then they were 40 yrs ago?
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Old 10-20-2024, 11:33 AM   #19
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My 2017 Chevy 4500 chassis has the RV Isolated 2nd Battery option. The 2nd battery is located next to the generator under the floor. When the engine is off, the 2nd battery supplies power to chassis for headlights, radio etc. When the engine is started a relay switches between the 2nd battery and the under-hood battery. If you have confirmed all of the electrical connections are good, I'd be looking at that relay. I think it is located near the under-hood battery.
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