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Old 07-09-2019, 09:42 AM   #1
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Outside Door Latch Problem

Since we have had the RV (we are in year 4) I have had issues with closing the outside door off and on. However, this year the problem has been more consistent and seems to vary with temperature, sun direction, position of the RV and if it is up on levelerís or not. The problem at this point is that the flat part of the latch (see picture with latch circled) is contacting the strike plat right on the beginning of the flat section of the latch which does not force it to retract and close. I.e. when the variables I mention above force the door into a position where the latch contacts the plate on the inline, the door closes, and when it contacts the plate on the flat section, it does not close and I have to pull the handle out to close the door.

My question for the forum is does anyone know who the door lock/latch mechanism is manufactured by? And/or does anyone know if there is an option to slightly retract the latch inside the housing such that the flat portion of the latch will not extend out so far and I can force the incline portion of the latch to contact the strike plate.

Thanks

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Old 07-09-2019, 12:55 PM   #2
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Same issue, following

I have the same issues when it is hot outside, so just following to hear what folks have to say.
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:24 PM   #3
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The latch assembly is made by Trimark.
The adjustment you asked about does not exist. From your pictures it appears the issue is that the door is not properly mounted in the sidewall. There should be a slight gap between the frame and the edge of the door. From the wear marks in your picture this is not the case. You may be able to seat the door strike side of the frame a bit to create a gap. That may be only simple solution other than correctly remounting the door. .
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Old 07-09-2019, 03:30 PM   #4
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They’re adjustable. Start on the door frame side. Loosen the two Phillips head screws...BARELY. Note where the screws are positioned (magic marker). Close the door several times. It will push the strike plate up or down. Then, see which direction the part moves, loosen it a little more and move it about an additional 1/32 inch. Securely tighten the screws (I use a Phillips bit set into a socket). If that’s not enough or doesn’t work repeat the process by loosening and moving the two round pins on the door.

I had to adjust mine several times before I was satisfied. The only time I have a problem now is when the auto level doesn’t cooperate. The tight door tells me to re-level. Works every time.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:31 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve-W View Post
The latch assembly is made by Trimark.
The adjustment you asked about does not exist. From your pictures it appears the issue is that the door is not properly mounted in the sidewall. There should be a slight gap between the frame and the edge of the door. From the wear marks in your picture this is not the case. You may be able to seat the door strike side of the frame a bit to create a gap. That may be only simple solution other than correctly remounting the door. .
Steve, Those are not wear marks, I actually used a grinder on the door edge because it was hitting the strike plate as well. That removed that issue but i still have the issue with the latch hitting the strike plate on the flat edge. I looked at is some more and I may be able to seat the strike plate back a little by using some washers between the strike plate and door jamb. This may give me just enough room to mitigate the issue. I might have to grind down the door jamb a bit to do this but it may work.

PS. Thanks for providing the Trimark detail. I actually figured that out late yesterday and was also able to see that there are no internal adjustments by watching this video which shows someone making a repair to a similar unit.

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Old 07-10-2019, 07:36 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by emm-dee View Post
Theyíre adjustable. Start on the door frame side. Loosen the two Phillips head screws...BARELY. Note where the screws are positioned (magic marker). Close the door several times. It will push the strike plate up or down. Then, see which direction the part moves, loosen it a little more and move it about an additional 1/32 inch. Securely tighten the screws (I use a Phillips bit set into a socket). If thatís not enough or doesnít work repeat the process by loosening and moving the two round pins on the door.

I had to adjust mine several times before I was satisfied. The only time I have a problem now is when the auto level doesnít cooperate. The tight door tells me to re-level. Works every time.
emm-dee,

Yes, when up on levels there is no issue, when I park door side facing the house there is an issue and when I park door side facing street there is not. Obviously the geometry of the door changes just enough when the RV is in different situations to cause the issue. So when I repair it I will be doing so with the driver side facing the house and if I get it to close properly then, we are probably good to go.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:56 AM   #7
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What about taking the grinder to the latch bolt and tapering the flat section a bit so that it flows into the factory taper.

The root cause is the improper mounting of the door at the factory. Mine was the same but opposite, the weather seals did not touch.you. Could see light along 2/3 of the strike side. The door was replaced at the factory this past winter.

I also have found if the unit is sitting at a angle the door binds more than it should. Obviously frame flex.
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:28 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Steve-W View Post
What about taking the grinder to the latch bolt and tapering the flat section a bit so that it flows into the factory taper.

The root cause is the improper mounting of the door at the factory. Mine was the same but opposite, the weather seals did not touch.you. Could see light along 2/3 of the strike side. The door was replaced at the factory this past winter.

I also have found if the unit is sitting at a angle the door binds more than it should. Obviously frame flex.
Steve, I did grind the latch a bit before and that helped but it seems the door shifts more than it used to so now that is probably not the best option. And I agree, when the RV is sitting at an angle one way or the other, the problem is much more noticeable.
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:44 PM   #9
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Door lock

Here is what I found. The red knob that is the main lock was just big enough that in the summer it was swelling up against the screen door causing it not to close properly . So what l did was take a pair of channel locks and squeeze on the screen door Were the red lock Push against it and that solve my problem . I wish I could sent you a picture , but my rig is in the shop getting the bedroom slide fix weíre a landscape guy back into it and warped it
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Old 07-10-2019, 05:40 PM   #10
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NewRVer
FR is now using Bauer door latches rather than the Trimark (at least on my new door) the latch is tapered all the way back in to the door so the flat spot your dealing with does not exist.

I dont know if the mounting hole in the door is exactly the same but just wanted to put another possible option on the table.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:06 PM   #11
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My guess

My guess is that the door is too close to the latch side of the frame, and too far from the hinge side. This often happens when the hinge screws work loose. Have you tightened them?

I was at my son's home last week and he was complaining about the door interfering with the frame on the latch side. I simply lifted the door by the inside and outside handles and he could see the top hinge flapping.
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Old 07-11-2019, 07:25 AM   #12
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NewRVer
FR is now using Bauer door latches rather than the Trimark (at least on my new door) the latch is tapered all the way back in to the door so the flat spot your dealing with does not exist.

I dont know if the mounting hole in the door is exactly the same but just wanted to put another possible option on the table.
Thanks. If at some point I have to replace the lock, I will keep this in mind.
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Old 07-15-2019, 03:59 PM   #13
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I've got the same problem right now. But I know what caused it. It jammed up on us last month so I took it apart and the only plastic part inside (spacer of some sort) had broken and was jamming the mechanism. I removed the pieces and now the plunger comes out too far and hits solid on the latch. I'm gonna replace the entire latch but may wait to do it at the rally.
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Old 08-12-2019, 07:54 PM   #14
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Well after listening to my wife complain again about now being able to close the door after cleaning out the RV today I finally decided to to perform a quick fix. I essentially moved the latch plate back a bit by placing a pair of washers between the door frame and the latch plate on each screw. I also installed slightly longer 1/4-20 x1/2" screws since the original screws would not have had much thread into the latch plate after the washers were installed. Additionally I had to file down the frame a slight bit behind the latch plate to be able to recess it. You can see the before and after results in the attached pictures. The good news is that the door close quite well now even when it's not up on the leveler's. This may even be the permanent fix but we'll just have to wait and see.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:32 AM   #15
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Lock

Your lock I a little different then mine. I sent you some pictures. The one with the latch and the red arrow was hitting the screen door. The screen door picture the red arrow is how the door looked the latch was hitting. The blue arrow is we’re I took my channel locks and bent the Screen door and no problem. I tried what you did and it didn’t work. Not sure if my edit pictures will come through.
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Old 08-18-2019, 10:00 AM   #16
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3011 DS 2017 door lock

Mine failed earlier this month. It locked us in the RV and we had to get out using the cab doors. Glad that I didn't have a emergency that we had to escape from, I don't know if we would have thought of that route.
I took the handle apart and found that a cheap piece of plastic that slid back and forth was wearing out and jamming the door action. I had to destroy the bad part and remove it. This allowed us to open and close the door and for the rest of our trip and to lock it only with the Dead Bolt part of the mechanism. The lock manufacturer was not the least concerned that this happened and endangered us. They only offered to sell us a new assembly for $140. + shipping.
DW has always been envious of friends RV's that had handles with a keyboard so after a lot of research I found a replacement unit that is not only a keyboard digital, it also has a keychain fob and of course a key if the battery should fail. It fit right in and I didn't have to re adjust anything.
The only bad part of my story is the price - $260 and free shipping. I don't have a Forest River dealer within 100 miles so I do most of these types of repair my self. It's worth not losing weeks of down time while it is sitting waiting to be repaired during camping season. Plus the DW is happy, that is worth the money.
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Old 08-18-2019, 05:24 PM   #17
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I just had this problem "fixed" at the Goshen rally by a lipper supervisor.
He loosened the 2 screws above and below the latch then hit the latch several good wacks with a hammer, straight in to the door. Tightened the screws and problem was solved.
I didn't understand it but it fixed it.
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
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I just had this problem "fixed" at the Goshen rally by a lipper supervisor.
He loosened the 2 screws above and below the latch then hit the latch several good wacks with a hammer, straight in to the door. Tightened the screws and problem was solved.
I didn't understand it but it fixed it.

Just just gotta love it when people use hammer's to fix things! And if I used this process it would inevitably break something else in the process.

The net affect is probably the same as I what i did, minus the hammer. I.e. he moved the face of the latch plate back towards the door jamb by bending it with the hammer whereas I took an approach that required less brute force.
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Old 09-27-2019, 05:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hailey View Post
Mine failed earlier this month. It locked us in the RV and we had to get out using the cab doors. Glad that I didn't have a emergency that we had to escape from, I don't know if we would have thought of that route.
I took the handle apart and found that a cheap piece of plastic that slid back and forth was wearing out and jamming the door action. I had to destroy the bad part and remove it. This allowed us to open and close the door and for the rest of our trip and to lock it only with the Dead Bolt part of the mechanism. The lock manufacturer was not the least concerned that this happened and endangered us. They only offered to sell us a new assembly for $140. + shipping.
DW has always been envious of friends RV's that had handles with a keyboard so after a lot of research I found a replacement unit that is not only a keyboard digital, it also has a keychain fob and of course a key if the battery should fail. It fit right in and I didn't have to re adjust anything.
The only bad part of my story is the price - $260 and free shipping. I don't have a Forest River dealer within 100 miles so I do most of these types of repair my self. It's worth not losing weeks of down time while it is sitting waiting to be repaired during camping season. Plus the DW is happy, that is worth the money.


May I ask what lock did you choose? And was the old lock a Trimark lock?
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Old 09-29-2019, 07:39 AM   #20
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Mine did the same thing. I just ordered a replacement from Amazon. A small plastic piece broke off inside the lock mechanism and I couldn’t find a replacement part, so just ordered the whole locking mechanism. I contacted TriMark but never heard back from them.
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