P.a.t.s. (Anti theft system)

[DeltaTime]

Hello. I went to retrieve my 2011 forester 2861DS e450 Banks from the storage center. It started for a brief second then died. My pats light on dash is flashing rapidly. I do not have a key fob type key. I reset my remote for keyless entry as per manual but cannot get it to reset pats system. No help from ford dealer or rv center. Any knowledge is appreciated as I need rv for family to stay in while visiting tomorrow evening. Thank you

[JLeising]

Do you have a second key? Believe vehicle is reading a code from a chip in the key. Code enables main engine control computer. Maybe the chip in your key is damaged.

[5picker]

Did it always start and run without the key fob key? (with chip)

If someone bypassed the P.A.T.S. system somewhere along the way then I understand there may be an issue... but if it is factory stock, the bare key is only to unlock the doors in an emergency. When you start it with the bare key, it will act just like you described. That's how the Passive Anti-Theft System operates.

[DeltaTime]

Originally Posted by JLeising

Do you have a second key? Believe vehicle is reading a code from a chip in the key. Code enables main engine control computer. Maybe the chip in your key is damaged.

The other two keys are standard keys. Key using is a standard key with a plastic end. Back up keys are simple silver keys so no chip in them. I need to reset the system but don’t know how

[DeltaTime]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Did it always start and run without the key fob key? (with chip)

If someone bypassed the P.A.T.S. system somewhere along the way then I understand there may be an issue... but if it is factory stock, the bare key is only to unlock the doors in an emergency. When you start it with the bare key, it will act just like you described. That's how the Passive Anti-Theft System operates.

Have never had this problem in the year and a half I’ve owned it. Only thing I’ve done this week was change out my house batteries

[5picker]

I don't know of any way to reset the system. If it's flashing and won't start it's because there is something inoperative/broken or it was unable to read the key.

If you only have the one chip key (which no longer works) and unless you have a Forscan tool and understand how to use it, I suspect your only option is a dealer.

I did read a few years ago that some cell phone chargers, when plugged into a cigarette lighter outlet, emitted enough RF that it would interfere with the key reader but I have no real world experience to verify.

[DeltaTime]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I don't know of any way to reset the system. If it's flashing and won't start it's because there is something inoperative/broken or it was unable to read the key.

If you only have the one chip key (which no longer works) and unless you have a Forscan tool and understand how to use it, I suspect your only option is a dealer.

I did read a few years ago that some cell phone chargers, when plugged into a cigarette lighter outlet, emitted enough RF that it would interfere with the key reader but I have no real world experience to verify.

Thank you for your response and time. I literally parked it and have done nothing out of the ordinary. I have seen other ford models on the internet that have demonstrated reset procedures however can’t find info on mine. A bit frustrating that 2 ford dealers and the authorized rv service dealer have no answer for me. Does not make one bit of sense. I cannot accept that because I know there is a solution. Thanks again

[Bama Rambler]

I suspect that the transponder key is bad. You can buy new transponder keys pretty cheap, but you'll still have to pay a dealer or mobile guy (with programming capability), to program it.

[rlh1957]

You said "I reset my remote for keyless entry as per manual". Is there a procedure to turn keyless entry back on for the remote?
Cars are so smart now, that even the owner can't do anythkng without the proper key fob.

[5picker]

Keyless Entry and the P.A.T.S. are two completely different systems.

[kamper00]

Are you saying that all keys will not start? If you at least get 1 key to start it, some key shops can copy the key and the PATS encryption to the new key and no need to go to dealer. If you don't have any keys that work then dealer will have to retrieve PATS info and create key.

[18CrewDually]

Highly unlikely it is a bad key.
When you go to start, is it cranking or does it not turn over at all? Is the red Security light flashing fast?
Check PCM relay by swapping it with the fuel pump relay. Also check all the fuses by physically pulling them. Corrosion on the pcm plug or a weak body ground can cause this. And of course check battery connections.

[Kirk S]

On my truck, the PATS system would allow the engine to turn over but not start because it interrupts power to the fuel pump relay.

My problem was the PATS relay in the fuse box under the hood. As mentioned earlier, swap that relay with your fuel pump relay (they are identical) and try to start it.
In the end I replaced both relays and no trouble since.

Also may be of interest...the blinking red light is sending a code. Count the flashes and look up the code meaning. Mine flashed a certain number of times, paused, then flashed a different number of times which provided a 2 digit code.

If you are using your original factory keys with the plastic head, the PATS chip is embedded in it.

Most Ford errors/codes can be cleared/reset by disconnecting both cables from the battery in the engine compartment and touching the cable ends together. HOWEVER, due to the Battery Management System in the RV, before touching the cable connectors together, use a meter to be absolutely certain there is no voltage coming from the coach batteries to the engine battery.

Link to other possible solutions:

https://www.autoblog.com/2016/06/03/...e-in-your-car/

[Rrickim63]

Long shot here. Put a former working key in ignition and turn the key to on position and leave it there in on position for a few minutes. Then turn off key. Try again.

[Steve-W]

Per Ford documentation the securiLock (PATS) is not available (even as an option) on 2017 DRW cutaway chassis. May also be others years as well but I have not looked into that.
See Ford doc below.

[18CrewDually]

Originally Posted by Steve-W

Per Ford documentation the securiLock (PATS) is not available (even as an option) on 2017 DRW cutaway chassis. May also be others years as well but I have not looked into that.
See Ford doc below.

What does a spec sheet from 2011 say?

[Steve-W]

For some reason I guess I got sidetracked and was thinking the OP was asking about 17’s.

[DeltaTime]

On my 2011 2861ds forester I started, it ran for a minute, it shut down. Pats light on dash flashed rapidly and would not start again. Just kept cranking. I turned key to on position and waited as suggested until light went off. I turned over and it runs strong for a minute or two then idles down as if at running temp then shuts down. No mobilizer ring around ignition switch. I repeated 5 times and it continues to do same thing. Starts, runs for a minute, idles down then dies. Is this the relay under the hood??? Vexed. Had locksmith check, talked to ford dealer with no support due to no longer being an authorized service dealer. Trying to save a tow to rv dealer etc. what relay and position under hood should I try??? Please help.

[Kirk S]

Originally Posted by DeltaTime

On my 2011 2861ds forester I started, it ran for a minute, it shut down. Pats light on dash flashed rapidly and would not start again. Just kept cranking. I turned key to on position and waited as suggested until light went off. I turned over and it runs strong for a minute or two then idles down as if at running temp then shuts down. No mobilizer ring around ignition switch. I repeated 5 times and it continues to do same thing. Starts, runs for a minute, idles down then dies. Is this the relay under the hood??? Vexed. Had locksmith check, talked to ford dealer with no support due to no longer being an authorized service dealer. Trying to save a tow to rv dealer etc. what relay and position under hood should I try??? Please help.

Did you try the other earlier suggestions like disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. The relay swap (fuse box under hood near firewall on driver's side) is what worked for me.

[DeltaTime]

Originally Posted by Kirk S

Did you try the other earlier suggestions like disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. The relay swap (fuse box under hood near firewall on driver's side) is what worked for me.

Thank you going to try that in the morning