Please check my battery logic

[Chigbot]

Bought a beautiful 2016 2400WS a couple days ago with 26k miles. Gentleman did nothing but camp with full hookups. After putting her on shore power all of last night I noticed the house batteries were no longer able to start the generator after about 24hrs (slow, unsuccessful crank) also, radio wouldn't work etc. If I started the coach, the generator would then in turn fire right up and everything was fine. Same with shore power: when plugged in everything worked fine.
I'm guessing the house batteries are toast when it comes to cranking, Voltmeter read 13.4 shortly after running generator but that does not tell me much. I wanted to upgrade these 5-6 year old batteries with AGM's anyways. Fingers crossed I don't have a parasitic draw.
When replacing the batteries, where is the main breaker on the 2400? Anything else I should kill/do before doing the swap? No solar. Thanks!

[Reverse_snowbird]

Sounds like the batteries are toast, but you can get them tested to make certain.
As to parasitic draw.... all rvs have them. The only way to completely shut off a parasitic draw is a physical battery shutoff installed directly on the battery.
Of course, having a motorhome complicates the situation because the 'house' and 'chassis' batteries are usually connected in some manner.

I don't know where your main cutoff switch is, but try the power panel (usually near the floor).

Before replacing the batteries, take a picture of the connections and perhaps label them to make reattaching them fool proof. It's pretty easy to mess up the connections. (At least that's what others on this forum have said.)

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Chigbot

Bought a beautiful 2016 2400WS a couple days ago with 26k miles. Gentleman did nothing but camp with full hookups. After putting her on shore power all of last night I noticed the house batteries were no longer able to start the generator after about 24hrs (slow, unsuccessful crank) also, radio wouldn't work etc. If I started the coach, the generator would then in turn fire right up and everything was fine. Same with shore power: when plugged in everything worked fine.
I'm guessing the house batteries are toast when it comes to cranking, Voltmeter read 13.4 shortly after running generator but that does not tell me much. I wanted to upgrade these 5-6 year old batteries with AGM's anyways. Fingers crossed I don't have a parasitic draw.
When replacing the batteries, where is the main breaker on the 2400? Anything else I should kill/do before doing the swap? No solar. Thanks!

If batteries were originals from 2016 (probably 2015 dated batteries) they are definitely past their prime. The 13.4 volts read shortly after running the generator was merely a surface charge.

I would replace batteries with some of your choice (AGM's are expensive but if you plan on lots of off grid camping probably worth your while.

Only thing really needed if just changing to either new Lead Acid or AGM batteries is to give the terminals on wire ends a good cleaning and inspection. If batteries were previously ignored they may be corroded and perhaps even need replacement.

Other than that, just replace, keep charged, and enjoy life

[Chigbot]

Already had the old ones (2017 date) tested and I replaced them with group 27 AGM’s. Per this forum the stock inverter is ok when upgrading to AGM’s!

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Chigbot

Already had the old ones (2017 date) tested and I replaced them with group 27 AGM’s. Per this forum the stock inverter is ok when upgrading to AGM’s!

It is actually the Charge Wizard contained within your Progressive Dynamics power distribution box along with your Precision Circuits BIM that makes the switch to AGM a piece of crumb cake.

An inverter, if you had one, would convert your 12V DC battery output power to 120V AC power. If you were to use that 120V power supply to run a battery charger you would put your batteries into a death spiral.

What you have is a Converter that uses shore/genset 120V AC input and changes it to 12V DC to run your 12V system (lights, fridge etc.) and charge your batteries.

… and then there is solar.

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by Chigbot

Already had the old ones (2017 date) tested and I replaced them with group 27 AGM’s. Per this forum the stock inverter is ok when upgrading to AGM’s!

when did you replace them.... Your first post sounds like you still have the OLD ones in place?
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Inverter / charger could be installed
it automatically detects is shore power is available ... if yes, it charges the battery

if no shore power connected it goes into Inverter mode and makes 120v
while not in use.... you do not want to leave it turned "ON" and powering things such as the fridge or water heater using Inverter MODE the batteries will drain quiet fast


Check you user guide on how to store the RV
------------------------------------------------------------
no guessing involved.

test battery voltage using multi meter at the battery posts
best to disconnect the positive cable from the battery so no outside power source can interfere with your reading

To test if battery is drawing a parasitic load...
use multi meter set to read amps

[Chigbot]

Converter not inverter*! The distribution box and BIM is great info, thank you for that!

[Chigbot]

I replaced them yesterday. After pulling one out I was able to find a manufacturer date of march of 2017 and confirm they were older. Went ahead and had them tested (tested bad) and bought a pair of AGM’s. They were a breeze to install after making a wiring diagram.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

when did you replace them.... Your first post sounds like you still have the OLD ones in place?
--------------------------------------------------

Inverter / charger could be installed
it automatically detects is shore power is available ... if yes, it charges the battery

if no shore power connected it goes into Inverter mode and makes 120v
while not in use.... you do not want to leave it turned "ON" and powering things such as the fridge or water heater using Inverter MODE the batteries will drain quiet fast


Check you user guide on how to store the RV
------------------------------------------------------------
no guessing involved.

test battery voltage using multi meter at the battery posts
best to disconnect the positive cable from the battery so no outside power source can interfere with your reading

To test if battery is drawing a parasitic load...
use multi meter set to read amps

Your random phrases with little punctuation or sentence structure are difficult to follow.

The 2016 2400W does not come standard with an inverter/charger, so why even bring it up? It comes standard with a 60 Amp Progressive Dynamics Converter. If you are unfamiliar with the RV being discussed, look up the specs and features first before commenting. Here is the 2016 Sunseeker brochure: https://forestriverinc.com/brochures...erbrochure.pdf

Regarding the final bit of advice, you advise testing battery voltage “using multi meter at the battery posts”, then say to test for parasitic load “use multi meter set to read amps”. At that point the multimeter leads are still on the battery posts, as you have not instructed otherwise. If you know much about circuits and multi meters, you should know this is not going to give the results for parasitic loads that you’re looking for.

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by BehindBars

Your random phrases with little punctuation or sentence structure are difficult to follow.
.

NOTED.. Thanks
had others complain instructions too long before..... so trying to be brief?
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I am NOT going to try teach someone exactly what to do and how to read meter. plenty of good videos out there for using a meter.


"At that point the multimeter leads are still on the battery posts"
standard multi meter probes are NOT attached .... you just touch them to the posts to read.

you can buy optional alligator clamps etc to attach probes if you need more time to read it...
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OP mentioned an Inverter .. post #4