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Old 03-03-2015, 09:56 PM   #41
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One response I saw was dead on. Be careful on price. I bought mine at a rv show they give big discounts at them. I saw the same units used going for more money than I paid.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:53 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derek6669 View Post
I ordered this, looks like it might solve the rattle coming from the stove top. http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000EDUTX6/r...088100_TE_item
I used this this past weekend and found it eliminated the stove top rattle. Well worth the $$$$
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:19 PM   #43
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I just looked at a 2006 3100ss today. Exterior very faded, inside very clean, with 33kmiles. Best guess on value?
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:54 AM   #44
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Here is a web site that might help. 2006 Sunseeker by Forest River LE Series M-3100SS Prices, Values & Specs, 2006 Sunseeker by Forest River LE Series M-3100SS Equipment Options | NADAguides, RV Values & Prices . I would think $23 to 25 K would be reasonable in the US
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Old 07-11-2016, 08:07 PM   #45
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Thanks
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:24 PM   #46
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For sale. Excellent condition. Fully loaded with many extras. With tow. 14000 mi. 81K.
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Old 08-15-2016, 05:43 PM   #47
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tight ship

Well from the post above this one the inspection would be short.. nice pic of a very nice rig!

But not knowing what you are going to chase I offer a technical view where each house component is its own system. The truck portion is durable and will always be in some state of approaching needed service, if it runs and stops well under load, idles, no leaks, and the air is cold then I am done with the truck. The two biggest (cost) threats of the house are the roof and the frig. I would look a used unit three times. First fire up the frig on ac, come back the next morning, switch to gas and return again after 5 hours. use a thermometer.

The gen is an easy service and as long as it starts by the fifth attempt primed and ran smooth under load, I would take any onan at 150 hours or so per year.. Even new units need a few times a bat to fire depending how the fuel is piped in.

Air is either cold or not. Measure the discharge temp after 10 minutes and note the external air temp also, humidity would be a nice touch to know.

Pull the wh rod, I would rather see a slight to medium used one opposed to a brand new one.

Put water pressure to it check for tank and line leaks. I would also want to see under the bed if the design has the water tank and wh there like mine. Bring a thin inspection light, thermometer, a extentsion rod mirror, and a small batt screw driver.

Finnnaally..... I would tell the seller the sale would be subject the roof being serviced (caulk check and repair) at my expense at an agreed to rv business. Great time to have the servicer do a walk around for delam.

Settle on a price, buy it, and take it to a truck dealer and have it serviced.
Change the genny oil and plugs, flush the hw and add a new anode.

The rest is house keeping....

This whole run up would only add 300-500 to your price. Oh, take a stiff lip detail person with you....

I am free on Fridays, you buy lunch...
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:18 AM   #48
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What does WH stand for? Water Heater?
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Old 08-16-2016, 12:08 PM   #49
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water heater

Wh is water heater , sorry about that..
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"Harry" the JK toad in the mirror
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Old 08-20-2016, 09:09 AM   #50
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Awesome tips Hoglou.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:50 PM   #51
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Look for water damage. It's about the only thing that can't be fixed. Look for stains inside, mildew smell, ripples and wavyness on exterior fiberglass.
Especially where the cabover starts. That part buckles once things start rotting. Check the condition of rubber roof and caulking. My first class C I got when it was 10 years old and I didn't know better. It had water damage that had been "repaired". I used it for 10 years and had almost no trouble with any appliances, generator or the truck, but I never could completely track down the various water leaks. In the end the water damage trashed it.
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Old 08-22-2016, 05:38 PM   #52
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Thanks for all of the help. I am now the proud owner of 2008 3120 DS.

Had the roof inspected and was in excellent shape. I have the rv in shop now for annual roof service. I am in process of removing overhead entertainment center and building bunk. Fridge and ac work great, I have not tested WH as of yet. Tires have plenty of tread but do show signs of dry rot cracks. I am not real concerned as they are 10 ply. Should I be?
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Old 08-22-2016, 06:22 PM   #53
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Congrats on your purchase. As for the tires, I've heard if the cracks are more than 1/8 inch wide and/or the tires are older than about 7 years, they should be replaced. Put a set of new Michelins on it and it'll ride 10 years younger.
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Old 08-22-2016, 06:47 PM   #54
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Good deal, cracks are very small, hairline size. So Michelens are double the regular tire cost. Worth the extra 600?
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