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01-18-2023, 03:03 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 75
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Replacing a RV TV....
In replacing a TV, for a larger screen, will a house TV work or must it be a special RV 12v TV. Pro & cons .... anyone?
Thanks.
Papa Dee
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01-18-2023, 03:09 PM
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#2
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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The only "special" TVs I know of utilize a 12v source for use when shore power isn't available. They aren't built more rugged, just maybe more convenient but they often lack features.
With that said, many newer TVs use a "brick" power supply that converts 120v to usually 12v so some can be used anyway. (some not all)
If having TV without shore power is a must, look for one that uses 12v input power or buy an inexpensive inverter to supply the 120Vv AC.
Bottom line, find a TV you like (features/picture quality) and there are numerous ways to power it. No "special" R/V TV needed.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=86
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01-18-2023, 03:23 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,854
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I'm using a Harbor Freight inverter that is similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/GELOO-Inverte...dp/B087WP9KZZ/
It powers a 27" TV, Roku Box, and Raspberry Pi with Kodi. A 55" TV only uses 120 watts max.
You don't need a special TV for RV use.
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01-18-2023, 03:48 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Dee
In replacing a TV, for a larger screen, will a house TV work or must it be a special RV 12v TV. Pro & cons .... anyone?
Thanks.
Papa Dee
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Easy answer:
If the power source is 12v DC, then you need a 12v tv.
If the power source is 110v AC, then any tv will work.
RV manufacturers rarely install a smart tv.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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01-18-2023, 04:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 4,854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
Easy answer:
If the power source is 12v DC, then you need a 12v tv.
If the power source is 110v AC, then any tv will work.
RV manufacturers rarely install a smart tv.
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If the power source is 12v DC then you need a 12v TV - or an inverter.
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01-18-2023, 08:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 494
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When you purchase an inverter, get a Pure Sine Wave unit. I tried a 200 watt MSW with our new 40 watt 115VAC TV, and couldn't make an hour before the low voltage alarm went off.
My Samlax 300 watt PSW was elsewhere in our unit, so I ran an extension cord from the TV to the Samlax, and we ran several more hours with no alarm.
Likewise, properly size the wiring for the inverter. Using existing 14 or 16 gauge wire for the old 12V TV won't power the inverter without too much voltage drop. I used about 6' of 8 gauge for our 300 watt PSW.
I've since moved the PSW inverter to a location near the power distribution panel, and shortened the 8 gauge input line to about 2'. I was able to take advantage of a 115V ac line and have since wired up a dedicated circuit from the inverter. The line is switchable with a DPDT switch. In the inverter position, it turns on the inverter and routes the hot side of the 115 line from the inverter to the dedicated line.
In the house position, it connects the dedicated line to the one of the house branches, and leaves the inverter unpowered.
__________________
2016 Sunseeker 2250LE/Chevy
Formerly: 2000 Four Winds 26Q/Ford, '96 Kit Sportsmaster 22' 5th wheel, '91 Sunlite truck camper, Wildernest flip-top canopy
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01-19-2023, 06:00 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 75
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Wow.... thanks for the info.... who would have thought I would have to go take a course in electrical engineering just because I wanted a larger TV screen in my RV. This is a whole new world on info I need to learn. .... well, I am retired.... what else will I do with my time!!!
Papa Dee
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01-19-2023, 02:04 PM
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#8
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Flyboy1950
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Lodi, CA
Posts: 240
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From my own experience upgrading my RV TV I would recommend a name brand such as Samsung mainly because they typically have the latest software and the TV will get Samsung’s latest software updates. Make sure it’s a smart TV that already has App’s such as Netflix & Prime already on the TV. (That’s assuming you are already subscribed to one or both of those video services)
Last, if possible make sure it has Bluetooth capability for easier connection to your personal devices, if necessary.
These aren’t “requirements”, just suggestions to make life a little easier that I have learned from buying several previous RV TV upgrades.
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01-19-2023, 02:37 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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Modified Sine Wave
Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyLCDR
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The Amazon device you recommended has the following in the Questions & Answers:
Question:When having a laptop plugged in and using it for audio purposes will i get the inverter buzz through the speakers
Answer:Hello, because our GELOO inverter is a modified sine wave inverter, it may receive magnetic interference from the speaker and generate noise. If you want speakers not to be disturbed by noise, it is recommended to use pure. Hope it can help you .
The OP might be better advised to look for one that's specified to have "pure sine wave" output.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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01-19-2023, 04:41 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc
I've since moved the PSW inverter to a location near the power distribution panel, and shortened the 8 gauge input line to about 2'. I was able to take advantage of a 115V ac line and have since wired up a dedicated circuit from the inverter. The line is switchable with a DPDT switch. In the inverter position, it turns on the inverter and routes the hot side of the 115 line from the inverter to the dedicated line.
In the house position, it connects the dedicated line to the one of the house branches, and leaves the inverter unpowered.
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What did you do with the neutral line? You say DPDT so I thought you were switching both Hot and Neutral. But then you mention that the switch also controls the invertor one/off.
Jim M.
__________________
2020 Flagstaff Super Lite 26RBWS
Former: 2017 Rockwood MiniLite 2104S
2015 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L Gas
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01-19-2023, 05:28 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,458
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A manual Transfer Switch!
Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc
I've since moved the PSW inverter to a location near the power distribution panel, and shortened the 8 gauge input line to about 2'. I was able to take advantage of a 115V ac line and have since wired up a dedicated circuit from the inverter. The line is switchable with a DPDT switch. In the inverter position, it turns on the inverter and routes the hot side of the 115 line from the inverter to the dedicated line.
In the house position, it connects the dedicated line to the one of the house branches, and leaves the inverter unpowered.
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A manual transfer switch! I hope you made sure to get one that is break-before-make. You really don't want that instant where the inverter output and line are connected together.
Here is an automatic version.
__________________
Larry
"Everybody's RV is not like your RV."
"Always take pictures with the button on the right."
"Always bypass the water heater before opening the low-point drains."
Sticks and Bricks: Raleigh, NC
2008 Cherokee 38P: at Ivor, VA permanently
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01-19-2023, 08:21 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 247
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I just went the other way; the 50" tv that came in my trailer fit snugly in its recess in the wall. On the road it evidently thumped repeatedly against its surroundings until it beat itself to death in just 2 seasons. I just replaced it with the next smaller size to eliminate the thumping. Bought an inexpensive brand from the big box store. Works fine.
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01-20-2023, 07:54 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: NY
Posts: 158
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I have a 2019 Forester 2861DS that had a 40 inch Continu-us 12 volt TV that died in early 2021. I replaced it with a Free Signal TV 12 volt, which is a direct replacement and mounted easily. So far we have no complains and the picture is good. The web address is: https://www.freesignal.tv/televisions
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01-23-2023, 12:03 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmarako
What did you do with the neutral line? You say DPDT so I thought you were switching both Hot and Neutral. But then you mention that the switch also controls the invertor one/off.
Jim M.
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The neutral and ground are each bonded within the box, only the hot (black) is switched. If you desire to switch the neutral and power/depower the inverter, you'll need a triple pole double throw. (or at least a triple pole double throw on two lines of the three...)
And yes, it is a break before make, as it also has a center off position. BBM is certainly a requirement!
An auto transfer switch makes it easy as well, but costs far more than the $5 DPDT switch, which is 20A AC rated.
__________________
2016 Sunseeker 2250LE/Chevy
Formerly: 2000 Four Winds 26Q/Ford, '96 Kit Sportsmaster 22' 5th wheel, '91 Sunlite truck camper, Wildernest flip-top canopy
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01-23-2023, 09:10 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2022
Location: Tarpon Springs FL
Posts: 3,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa Dee
Wow.... thanks for the info.... who would have thought I would have to go take a course in electrical engineering just because I wanted a larger TV screen in my RV. This is a whole new world on info I need to learn. .... well, I am retired.... what else will I do with my time!!!
Papa Dee
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I can confuse you some more
many TV's already have an input for DC power ... usually 19v
look at the back of the TV ... for the round DC input
Samsung is known to make a lot like this.
If the voltage is 19v DC you could use a STEP UP Converter
transforms battery 12v DC to 19v DC
You can then leave it permanently hooked to TV .
Along with a on/off switch to converter... no waste power when TV not being used.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Difference between this and a Inverter,
Inverter you have to be careful what you plug in........ a hair dryer or a TV.
AND the inverter's location + the 12v wire size to the battery..
have to use some sort of extension cord OR a dedicated inverter circuit and outlet...
The hardwired 19v step up Converter.. only uses a very small amount of power and could be used on the existing 12v wiring.
There may already be a 12v source near the TV you can tap into.
20 minutes to setup , neat and tidy with no extension cords
BUT no ability to power other stuff... like a Inverter.
__________________
Tarpon Springs FL
2022 Salem 24RLXL
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01-23-2023, 09:30 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemc
The neutral and ground are each bonded within the box, only the hot (black) is switched. If you desire to switch the neutral and power/depower the inverter, you'll need a triple pole double throw. (or at least a triple pole double throw on two lines of the three...)
And yes, it is a break before make, as it also has a center off position. BBM is certainly a requirement!
An auto transfer switch makes it easy as well, but costs far more than the $5 DPDT switch, which is 20A AC rated.
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The reason I asked was I'm not sure if you want to connect the neutral out from the invertor to the neutral of the trailer. I think I would have kept them separate. The other thing that you mentioned was that you have the ground and neutral "bonded in the box". Neutral and ground are suppose to be kept separate in a trailer.
Jim M.
__________________
2020 Flagstaff Super Lite 26RBWS
Former: 2017 Rockwood MiniLite 2104S
2015 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L Gas
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01-23-2023, 04:06 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 494
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Yea, I re-read my statements and came to the same conclusion. My mistake; I've corrected the post to say "he neutral and ground are each bonded within the box".
In other words, wire-nut the neutral to neutral and ground to ground. Do not connect neutral to ground; keep them separate.
__________________
2016 Sunseeker 2250LE/Chevy
Formerly: 2000 Four Winds 26Q/Ford, '96 Kit Sportsmaster 22' 5th wheel, '91 Sunlite truck camper, Wildernest flip-top canopy
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01-23-2023, 07:08 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 77
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This is all being made too complicated. If your current tv plugs into what looks like a household outlet, just get a regular TV. Better yet, look on the back of your TV and it will tell you the voltage.
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01-23-2023, 10:21 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 14
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I bought a 40" TV at Wally. My grandson and I installed while we were on vacation. We had to modify the original mount. I slide a half round piece of pool noodle under the bottom edge when traveling to help support it.
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01-23-2023, 10:33 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 77
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TV Mount
I use a PAWS International 2 piece mount with an articulating wall mount for my 40 inch TV. This allows me to lift the TV off the wall and store it safely on the bed during travel and eliminates strain on the wall mount.
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