Replacing Charger / Converter with Progressive 60 AMP

[oregonct]

I have a 2015 Forest River Mercedes 2400RS. Anyone replace the existing charger . converter with a Progressive 60AMP unit? Any issues with the replacement?

[Duckogram]

Are you replacing the entire box or just the power supply and charger?

[oregonct]

Just the power supply and charger.

[Duckogram]

I looked into that when I was trying to update my 03 Jayco which had an unsuported IOTA box. Progressive D has a series (I think 4600) that are direct replacements for other brands. I suggest you check their website armed with your current box model number to find which one fits. You may not be able to get to 60A but you will will get the ultra important charge wizzard.

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by oregonct

I have a 2015 Forest River Mercedes 2400RS. Anyone replace the existing charger . converter with a Progressive 60AMP unit? Any issues with the replacement?

I just replaced my converter section of my Progressive Dynamics PD4060. It was because I switched over to Battle Born Lithium Batteries and they have a new drop in Converter with the correct charging profile for Lithium Batteries. It is different that AGM. I also replaced my Zamp Solar Controller also.

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by mlmay12

I just replaced my converter section of my Progressive Dynamics PD4060. It was because I switched over to Battle Born Lithium Batteries and they have a new drop in Converter with the correct charging profile for Lithium Batteries. It is different that AGM. I also replaced my Zamp Solar Controller also.

I was not happy with the PD LI charger. The current lithium charger by PD is not a smart charger, it is dumb. Runs up to 14.6 volts and just sits there. They said they are working on another model that will have a lower voltage float. The LI batteries like to be charged up to that voltage but do NOT like to be held there. The Battleborns sit at about 13+ volts and like to be left alone, don't mind being discharged, don't mind being left partly charged.

The Drop in lithiums are a new ball game, and should be treated with care. Holding them at 14.6 for any period of time is not good.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by garbonz

I was not happy with the PD LI charger. The current lithium charger by PD is not a smart charger, it is dumb. Runs up to 14.6 volts and just sits there. They said they are working on another model that will have a lower voltage float. The LI batteries like to be charged up to that voltage but do NOT like to be held there. The Battleborns sit at about 13+ volts and like to be left alone, don't mind being discharged, don't mind being left partly charged.



The Drop in lithiums are a new ball game, and should be treated with care. Holding them at 14.6 for any period of time is not good.

Have you looked at anyone else’s chargers?

I’m considering the Victron all-in-one inverter/charger/solar controller. But it’s a lot of pennies.

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by ependydad

Have you looked at anyone else’s chargers?

I’m considering the Victron all-in-one inverter/charger/solar controller. But it’s a lot of pennies.

I did a ton of research on this. Once charged mine sit at 13.5V after the initial 14.2V to 14.6V charging. Battle Born Batteries have a built in Management System to shut off charging if required and do not need to float. My Zamp Solar Controller holds them between 13.2V and 13.5V indefinitely. The new PD Converter replacement I just put in was recommended by Battle Born and just came on the market. I haven't run it extensively yet and I will be sure to keep an eye on it.

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by mlmay12

I did a ton of research on this. Once charged mine sit at 13.5V after the initial 14.2V to 14.6V charging. Battle Born Batteries have a built in Management System to shut off charging if required and do not need to float. My Zamp Solar Controller holds them between 13.2V and 13.5V indefinitely. The new PD Converter replacement I just put in was recommended by Battle Born and just came on the market. I haven't run it extensively yet and I will be sure to keep an eye on it.

I will give Battle Born a call tomorrow and double check on if it is OK for them to sit at 14.5V at length while on ground power. I almost never have a power cable plugged in and just depend on my 400W solar to top off the batteries but will check just to make sure. I think when a 14.5V potential is shown on the display the batteries have already shut down and that voltage is just the output of the converter.

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by mlmay12

I will give Battle Born a call tomorrow and double check on if it is OK for them to sit at 14.5V at length while on ground power. I almost never have a power cable plugged in and just depend on my 400W solar to top off the batteries but will check just to make sure. I think when a 14.5V potential is shown on the display the batteries have already shut down and that voltage is just the output of the converter.

That would be cool if it was true. I wonder how to tell that is happening, and at what voltage the batts kick back in.

Does operating at a constant 14.5 volts affect any systems, I saw a case where the equalizing cycle fried some led hockey puck light.

So much fun stuff to learn.

Battleborn told me that being held at 14.6 was not good, and PD told me they were working to develope a float setting for the LI converters, so that is all I know. I sometimes wonder if these folks are just telling us what we want to hear. I also unplug the power usually and also have 400 watts of solar and the Zamp controller and it works perfectly.

[mlmay12]

Originally Posted by garbonz

That would be cool if it was true. I wonder how to tell that is happening, and at what voltage the batts kick back in.

Does operating at a constant 14.5 volts affect any systems, I saw a case where the equalizing cycle fried some led hockey puck light.

So much fun stuff to learn.

Battleborn told me that being held at 14.6 was not good, and PD told me they were working to develope a float setting for the LI converters, so that is all I know. I sometimes wonder if these folks are just telling us what we want to hear. I also unplug the power usually and also have 400 watts of solar and the Zamp controller and it works perfectly.

Hi Garbonz, your situation is very similar to mine. I just got off the phone with an Engineer at Battle Born. He said because of the concerns people had they did some accelerated testing at different voltages at and above 14.6V to try and determine if there would be any damage from maintaining a constant 14.5V on their batteries. He stated they could find no adverse effects of this to the batteries health or longevity.

Whether this affects any other systems in the RV time will tell. Most systems I have found have a range of between 12V and 15V listed that I have seen and many are OK for 24V or above systems. I am going to go through the specs on all my installed equipment and see what it states.

I very seldom plug in to ground power for any length of time except when prepping for a trip at home and usually that is for just a few days to cool the fridge. I have decided on a procedure, although probably unnecessary until more information is in on these relatively new batteries. I will shut off the 15A AC Circuit Breaker that goes to the Charger section of the Progressive Dynamics Power Center once the batteries are fully charged. This will allow my Zamp Solar Controller to maintain them at 13.4V. Luckily the Converter has its own dedicated AC Circuit Breaker.

I feel this is a small price to pay for the rapid charging the Lithium system allows when running off the Generator to top off the batteries in the late afternoon for unlimited power through the night.

I love the added benefit these batteries provide of being able to close the FW Slide without starting the generator especially when closing up for a 4AM start from a campground in the morning. I'm sure other campers appreciate it also. It's pretty amazing that they stay at or above 13V up to close to 80% depletion.

I am confident in my ability to keep an eye on the electrical systems in the RV and will continue to update information on results I find with use.

Before retiring in 2009 I spent 35 years as an Electronics Tech and Electrician on Aircraft in the Navy so hopefully I can figure out what I'm doing.