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Old 07-03-2017, 07:29 PM   #201
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Originally Posted by GL1800Rider View Post
Michelle, like I have told others, don't let a handful of roof complaints deter you. I honestly think the percentage is less than 1%. Check your roof every six months and maintain the seal. If you are super worried you can do as others have done and apply strips of eternabond and you should never have a problem.

I just had mine in for an A/C check and roof inspection from a free gift card I won at a rally and after 2 years all is good.
Do you have some valid data for this claim or are you just making up a number? If you are making it up, I think you are doing a disservice to the person who asked the question and possibly giving them a false sense of security. I doubt if even FR could tell you the percentage of roof leaks unless they occur under warranty and the dealer reports them. Too many folks just deal with these issues themselves to have any idea on the real numbers.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:16 PM   #202
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Originally Posted by KatanaPilot View Post
Do you have some valid data for this claim or are you just making up a number? If you are making it up, I think you are doing a disservice to the person who asked the question and possibly giving them a false sense of security. I doubt if even FR could tell you the percentage of roof leaks unless they occur under warranty and the dealer reports them. Too many folks just deal with these issues themselves to have any idea on the real numbers.


Agree with you KatanaPilot, I had two class C's with front cap/trim leaks. Problem was neither was detectable till major damage had occurred. No obvious seam cracks appeared saying "fix me!
My failure rate was 100%, a bit higher than 1%.
Best idea I've seen for this is The Seal- Tech test. We used a variation of this test to check welding on huge fabricated watertight structures (shipboard houses). The test is described a few posts back.
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Old 07-04-2017, 01:05 AM   #203
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Mine was a rear cap leak. Unit was just over a year old when it started. Still trying to get it resolved . Looks like I will have to go the eternabond route.
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:58 PM   #204
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Ordered a roll of Thermobond and a roller yesterday. Two and a half years and I haven't seen any signs of water damage in the cabinets on either side of the tv, I have the entertainment center instead of the bunk. Before last trip I replaced the vinyl strip that covers the the metal strip under the cap to the bottom of the house on the passenger side. When I took the top screw out there was water dripping out and the screw was rusty, so I'm not taking any chances before I cover it. Someone said to use Acetone to clean the area before you tape. My question is do you use the Acetone to just clean the area on either side of the Diccor sealant. The label says it dissolves things so I don't want to dissolve the sealant.
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:00 PM   #205
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Sorry etrnabond tape
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:29 PM   #206
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If you carefully read the thousands of posts here I doubt you'd find 10% of them are reporting a front or back cap leak.

The folks that have leaks are, of course, very upset and think that this is some kind of universal problem. But I've been posting here for 2-years and cap leaks are a very minor percentage of the reported problems here.

And, not every front cap leak is a major thing. A year ago I lost a front clearance lens on a 1000 mile trip. I noticed it one morning at a campground and figured I'd get it replaced at my destination. I didn't try to cover it. It was simply a missing lens. Later that day we drove through a heavy storm, BIG head winds, rain, sleet and even driving snow. Suddenly a stream of water started falling on my wife in the passenger seat. "Oh no, now we've got a front cap leak" I thought. But then I remembered the missing clearance light lens. We pulled over and put some duct tape over the exposed light and drove on.

Then a few days later we replaced the lens and never once had any kind of leak in the RV anywhere (until one of the overhead vents got a crack and started leaking because I had not put a cover over it).

So, not all front leaks are the same. Or serious. Or difficult to correct.

There are vastly more problems with other RV components on a FR Motorhome than there are reported cap leaks. I would warn anyone about RV ownership for lots of reasons but not for cap leaks at the front or back of the RV.
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:46 PM   #207
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Uhhhhhh, no. Way too much work. Sign up for THE RALLY for 2 consecutive years. 95% will be repaired or replaced. The remaining 5% is normal stuff. Also, if a known defect, the factory will work with you in terms of sending replacement parts. Remember to make a warranty checklist: ex: Dometic has its own 2 yr warranty.
Surburban ( furnace ) refer, etc.
My Silverback steps failed. New set on the way. I pay install. Had unit 3 years.
Just say'n. On here because we are considering a 26 ft class c, vs 36 ft 5er!! Getting old and tired
Interested in process for rally. Where do I sign up? Is there more than one each year?
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:11 PM   #208
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Only 1 FROG Rally sponsored by Forest River. Held in August at Goshen, Indiana Fairgrounds. Info is available on this forum. Search headers. Sells OUT full registration in DAYS following annual announcement. It's maxed out annually.
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Old 07-06-2017, 12:14 AM   #209
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Roof leak at front cap on 2016 3101ss

Interesting that a most don't have leak problems . Wish I was one of them. When I was at CW there were 3 FR in for roof leak problems. And not all RV owners are on forums. So who knows how many have leak problems. Just saying.
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:56 PM   #210
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Well just got done checking the front cap on our 2013 Sunseeker 3010 DS and everything seems copacetic, but I would like to get the groups opinion on repairing these leaks with either Kevlar or Fiberglass tape and resin instead of using Dicor? My thinking is that the Kevlar or Fiberglass might provide more strength then just applying the Dicor.
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Old 07-09-2017, 05:25 PM   #211
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re

After reading all these horror stories, yesterday I ran a 4" strip of ethnabond across the cap joint and pumped some Dicor in the corners
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:24 AM   #212
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After reading all these horror stories, yesterday I ran a 4" strip of ethnabond across the cap joint and pumped some Dicor in the corners
Did you do much prep work beforehand and how did it turn out? I am thinking about doing the same before putting it into storage for the winter this year.
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Old 07-10-2017, 11:27 AM   #213
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Pretty easy, just make sure you clean area with acetone before laying down the tape. I didn't have a leak before so no way to judge how effective
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Old 09-10-2017, 12:39 AM   #214
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For anyone buying a C-class FR. Get your butt up there and seal the perimeter with eternabond the same day you bring it home. You can't afford not to. Don't listen to anyone else that says there is no rush.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:05 PM   #215
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For anyone buying a C-class FR. Get your butt up there and seal the perimeter with eternabond the same day you bring it home. You can't afford not to. Don't listen to anyone else that says there is no rush.


Need to think this over very carefully, once this tape is applied the roof and coach are downgraded to "patched". No one expects to sell on the spot, maybe upgrade or worse. The roof will be "patched" forever. Yes the buyer will notice, and yes no one can tell what's under that "patch".
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:14 AM   #216
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We ended up finding the root cause of the leak and delamination! It was caused by a repair which was performed under warranty.
- We reported a tiny crack in the fiberglass probably caused by stress underneath to the dealer, I expected them to fix with a drop of epoxy and cover with "literally" a drop of gel coat.
- RV stayed at the dealer for 4 month for the repairs, awful! Note that the slideout was shut and did not open and there was a lot of other defects
- Upon final inspection 4 month later everything "seemed" good!
- Discovered lately that there was a strange plumbing vent on the roof, located over the slide out (note that some sunseekers, like ours, only has a single vent, grey is not vented outside, instead a one way valve is used under the sink -- I did not know this before), hence I never suspected the second unexpected vent on roof.
- The strange plumbing vent was installed by the dealer to hide the crack, was not sealed properly and caused the delamination

I did raise the concern with FR, they refused to cover any of the repairs, they initially denied that the crack existed, then they denied that they approved installing a plumbing vent [I got the thread btw dealer and FR warranty with the proofs] regardless they said no stating that my 2014 was an "older" model. Not impressed.

I obviously cannot let those who broke it do the repairs! Learned how to fiber gladd (West Systems epoxy based // check boatworks today on youtube) and did all the work myself. At the same time we had 400W Renogy MPPT system installed, which was awesome this summer.

You pay less for the RV but this is what you get, very deceived. Other companies (ex: Winnebago have a 10 years on the roof). I have pics of the repairs, I'll post... It was a messy but very rewarding job.

The design of the roof has flaws! The trim on both sides holding the fiberglass sheet makes it such that water cannot drain... FR was proven to loose against nature... Standing water = leaks. With the repairs I removed the trims from the front sides and glued the fiberglass roof sheet to the edge with fiberglass (mat and epoxy), I also flattened the edge of the repair to make it smooth with fiberglass Fairing compound.

It was a big job, all this to address design flaws. With these problems, I have major concerns regarding long term reliability.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:24 AM   #217
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Some pics..

Quote:
Originally Posted by bambam View Post
We ended up finding the root cause of the leak and delamination! It was caused by a repair which was performed under warranty.
- We reported a tiny crack in the fiberglass probably caused by stress underneath to the dealer, I expected them to fix with a drop of epoxy and cover with "literally" a drop of gel coat.
- RV stayed at the dealer for 4 month for the repairs, awful! Note that the slideout was shut and did not open and there was a lot of other defects
- Upon final inspection 4 month later everything "seemed" good!
- Discovered lately that there was a strange plumbing vent on the roof, located over the slide out (note that some sunseekers, like ours, only has a single vent, grey is not vented outside, instead a one way valve is used under the sink -- I did not know this before), hence I never suspected the second unexpected vent on roof.
- The strange plumbing vent was installed by the dealer to hide the crack, was not sealed properly and caused the delamination

I did raise the concern with FR, they refused to cover any of the repairs, they initially denied that the crack existed, then they denied that they approved installing a plumbing vent [I got the thread btw dealer and FR warranty with the proofs] regardless they said no stating that my 2014 was an "older" model. Not impressed.

I obviously cannot let those who broke it do the repairs! Learned how to fiber gladd (West Systems epoxy based // check boatworks today on youtube) and did all the work myself. At the same time we had 400W Renogy MPPT system installed, which was awesome this summer.

You pay less for the RV but this is what you get, very deceived. Other companies (ex: Winnebago have a 10 years on the roof). I have pics of the repairs, I'll post... It was a messy but very rewarding job.

The design of the roof has flaws! The trim on both sides holding the fiberglass sheet makes it such that water cannot drain... FR was proven to loose against nature... Standing water = leaks. With the repairs I removed the trims from the front sides and glued the fiberglass roof sheet to the edge with fiberglass (mat and epoxy), I also flattened the edge of the repair to make it smooth with fiberglass Fairing compound.

It was a big job, all this to address design flaws. With these problems, I have major concerns regarding long term reliability.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:25 AM   #218
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More pics with final results... Note that I also removed the antenna..
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:49 AM   #219
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BamBam,

That's a big job and the finished work looks pretty good, guess time will tell. BTW, I am about to install a few solar panels myself and have the same go power cable plate. How did you go through the ceiling to attach the plate?
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Old 09-13-2017, 10:13 AM   #220
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One inch hole for the wires which I protected with black plastic sleeve (automotive style) to ensure they are protected against rubbing against sides, also filled the hole with dicor sealant. The hole inside is also accessible in the back of cabinet, so if anything happens I would know [knowing is key]. I'll post another thread at a certain point re: solar install.
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