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Old 05-09-2017, 10:20 AM   #21
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RVr, we've been pre-trip prepping too. If you remove the inside trim around the fan, you will see the purple cable (that is barely visable in the top corner of the 3rd pic) and the conduit that it goes into. The wiring is above the hard ceiling panel. You won't need to disturb the soft liner attached to the bottom of the ceiling panel. If your solar wire is flexible enough you may be able to use the conduit that the Sat cable is in. Your call if you want to tie a cord to the coax end behind the radio and use the coax to pull the cord through to the fan frame and then use the cord to pull the solar wiring through. I wasn't able to do that due to the huge connector on the prefab antenna cable for the cell booster being larger than the 3/4 conduit
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Old 05-09-2017, 02:02 PM   #22
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Gary,

Due to weather and lack of time my installation plans have gotten pushed back to a later date. However, I will take the information you provided and see if it might be applicable in my case.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:15 PM   #23
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Roof penetration for cables

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I relocated cable when I installed new dish.
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:29 PM   #24
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OK. It's time to start on the completion of my solar project but still not sure how I'm going to get the solar cables from the roof into the cab. Right now I would like to go as direct as possible and with my controller and disconnect switches installed just to the left of the radio above the steps it would be nice if I could penetrate the roof right above the entertainment shelves and down right into it. I'm going to pull the radio again this weekend and focus on how cables are routed in to see if I can determine how the current cables are run.
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:23 PM   #25
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Does anyone have any pics of what the roof looks like under the soft ceiling?
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:08 PM   #26
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roof penetration

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Does anyone have any pics of what the roof looks like under the soft ceiling?
If you take the trim ring off one of your roof vents you will see.
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:20 PM   #27
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Inside and outside view of the front vent sat cable routing, 2017 SS 3010.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:22 PM   #28
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Being a Ham operator, & traveler I was always putting with wires from the roof...for various "stuff". On my Lazy Daze I drilled a 1 1/4" hole thru the roof into a cabinet. Sleeved the hole with a plastic pipe the put a tank vent cap on it. I kept the sleeve packed with high density foam. Whenever I wanted, or needed to add or remove a cable I just removed the cap and foam, then had a big enough hole to pass most anything thru.
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Old 09-07-2017, 10:53 PM   #29
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The shortest distance to my controller/batteries was down the awning channel. Here's a photo with the lower half of the plastic cover on the channel cover removed to show the wires.
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:33 AM   #30
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Since our vacation time is done for the year I'll be winterizing the RV this weekend and quite possibly be finishing up the solar installation. The only thing left to do is penetrate the roof and secure the two panels to the roof and run the wire's back to the solar controller. Since my controller is mounted next to the cabinets over the front door I'd like to penetrate the roof right above it and extend a flexible PVC conduit directly into the controller cabinet. My only concern is that it is next to impossible to determine what is between the fiberglass roof and soft ceiling below it. I doubt that there is any wiring but am not sure what the framing structure on the roof is like and would prefer to penetrate the roof without any concern of hitting some type of cross member. Suggestions anyone?
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:20 AM   #31
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Does your rv have wood or aluminum framing? If wood, it seems like a stud finder would find a wood stud or ceiling joist. Not sure if it would find a aluminum frame. I think a good stud finder will also find electrical in the wall. No matter what type framing you have, you can expect to find a ceiling joist at any seam in the ceiling panels. Also there is usually a joist or cross member at each side of roof vents or roof openings for AC unit.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:31 AM   #32
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Does your rv have wood or aluminum framing? If wood, it seems like a stud finder would find a wood stud or ceiling joist. Not sure if it would find a aluminum frame. I think a good stud finder will also find electrical in the wall. No matter what type framing you have, you can expect to find a ceiling joist at any seam in the ceiling panels. Also there is usually a joist or cross member at each side of roof vents or roof openings for AC unit.
From what I know, these should all be aluminum frames.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:38 AM   #33
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I think some of the aluminum sided units still have wood framing. The fiberglass exteriors are usually aluminum frames.
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Old 11-01-2017, 10:58 AM   #34
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NewRV, I discovered aluminum framing where cabinets are attached to the ceiling. If you're drilling inside a cabinet, move a couple of inches away from the line of screws, make drill stop for a small bit so you won't over penetrate and you can make a test hole to ensure there is nothing there.
The roof vents have wood framing and as mentioned earlier, on my SS there was already a penetration at the front side of the front vent where the roof sat pre-installed cable came through that I used, and then routed it through the foam ceiling insulation to the cabinet above the entry door and down into that cabinet.
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Old 11-01-2017, 11:37 AM   #35
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I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but you may want to take a look at my thread on how I wired and installed my solar panels. I went thru the fridge vent. Do you still want a picture of what the roof looks like?http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...in-105452.html
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:37 PM   #36
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I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but you may want to take a look at my thread on how I wired and installed my solar panels. I went thru the fridge vent. Do you still want a picture of what the roof looks like?http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...in-105452.html
Sage, thanks for the photo. That is pretty much what I envisioned after looking under the fan shroud and LED lights in my unit. I did re-read your thread just to see if I could glean anything else. Since my controller is in the bunk area next to the door and my flexible panels will be right over it, the best way for me to connect them is straight down. I'm just trying to avoid drilling small holes in the roof only to find out there is a cross member underneath or even worse, some kind of wiring. Additionally, I'm trying to avoid coming down through the cabinets because that will just be a pain in the ass and on the slim chance that something does leak, the water will not come down and ruin the wood.
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:10 AM   #37
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Does anyone know how thick the fiberglass roof & wood underneath is? If not, what about just the thickness of the fiberglass roof?
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:39 PM   #38
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Does anyone know how thick the fiberglass roof & wood underneath is? If not, what about just the thickness of the fiberglass roof?
I believe if you open the access to your roof air conditioner you can see the roof thickness. It should be the same throughout.

Interesting side note:
On our 3051, the heavy wooden sliding door and track dropped from the ceiling.
At the Goshen rally the tech used a magnet to determine that the factory had missed the backing plate. He was then able to adjust the location of the track and attach it properly.
I was surprised that there were any steel attachment points in the roof.
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:39 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Netgain View Post
I believe if you open the access to your roof air conditioner you can see the roof thickness. It should be the same throughout.

Interesting side note:
On our 3051, the heavy wooden sliding door and track dropped from the ceiling.
At the Goshen rally the tech used a magnet to determine that the factory had missed the backing plate. He was then able to adjust the location of the track and attach it properly.
I was surprised that there were any steel attachment points in the roof.
I guess it depends on the layout. In area's which heavy items might be attached to the ceiling, (cabinets, doors,etc) I can see where they might use some steel for extra strength. If you know the design then using a magnet is a good way to tell for sure.

I'll have to look at the AC again. I have had it open before but just don't remember seeing that level of detail.
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:44 PM   #40
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I was able to finish up my solar install this weekend and just wanted to update this thread. I was able to make the hole from the interior to the exterior of the roof easy enough using a 1.5 inch hole saw. I ran the hole saw in reverse to penetrate the soft roof and Styrofoam insulation up to the wood sheathing. This made a really clean cut with no debris. Then I went up to the top and used a 11/13 drill bit to make the hole through the fiberglass and wood. I will say that the fiberglass is really thin and most of the roof thickness is the wood. I then ran a flexible electrical conduit through the roof and into the switch/controller box inside the RV.
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