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Old 08-03-2016, 06:16 AM   #1
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Running Frig on DC only

We will be going away next week and will be parking our 3011 somewhere for a few days while we stay in a hotel in the downtown area. I need to keep the frig running on batteries/propane for that time and expect that this would not be an issue. Anyone have any prior experience doing this and if so, how long did you run on batteries/propane only?

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Old 08-03-2016, 06:23 AM   #2
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There will be "Other Things" using that 12V as well just so you know! A few Days might challenge your Batt! Youroo!!
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:07 AM   #3
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I would do a test run at home, I would flip all the breakers on the camper except the one that ran the fridge and see if it would run the length of time needed.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:15 AM   #4
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I would do a test run at home, I would flip all the breakers on the camper except the one that ran the fridge and see if it would run the length of time needed.
The breakers control the 120V! They are Not going to be "Plugged In"! Youroo!!
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:31 AM   #5
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There should be no problem running the fridge on battery/propane for a couple of days IF that were the ONLY thing running.

BUT... the problem is the other parasitic draws on your rigs 12v system.

I agree you should do a test run.

Things like CO detector, door frame heaters in the fridge (for condensation), fans, radios, etc. will ALSO be using 12v power while it is setting there.

Unless you've familiarized yourself with how to manage the 12v draw on your system (such as when boondocking) the battery may not last long enough to make the refrigerator stay running for that length of time.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:31 AM   #6
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I have left the fridge on propane for more than a few days in my 3011DS with no issues. Just make sure all of the lights are turned off and you have a full propane tank/battery charge. The battery and propane tank should be good for only a few days with nobody in and out of it and using stuff.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:50 AM   #7
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I was wondering if there are any 110 systems monitoring for battery power, that's why I mentioned flipping breakers, if I were doing this I would actually run a power wire right to the fridge under my camper and just disconnect the whole rig from the battery. Something like that might be nice to have in case of some type of emergency while traveling, like an unexpected TV breakdown or other weather related problem where you had to leave the camper for an undetermined amount of time and didn't plan to.

Looks like you have it covered in the other post by 77rednecktruckso you should be good to go.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:00 AM   #8
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I have left the fridge on propane for more than a few days in my 3011DS with no issues. Just make sure all of the lights are turned off and you have a full propane tank/battery charge. The battery and propane tank should be good for only a few days with nobody in and out of it and using stuff.
I will be parking it at our remote office about noon on a Tuesday with 2/3 propane and full batteries. I will be back Wed morning in the office so I can monitor it then. If need be, I may be able to connect to 120V during the day on Wed. I was hoping to be able to go from noon on Tuesday till 10am on Thursday without connecting to power.
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:13 PM   #9
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Run the genny on Wednesday to recharge the batteries


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Old 08-03-2016, 12:51 PM   #10
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May I suggest you get an ACDC clamp meter and turn everything off in the rig and start with a warm fridge. Start up the fridge then clamp your positive battery terminal and see what the amp draw is. This will give you a sum of your fridge and phantom loads sot you can figure out how many amp hours you will be drawing when the fridge is on. Multiply by 24 for amp hours per day...and then multiply by how long you will be gone for what you will draw in WORST case with fridge on in hot weather full time.
Your draw for that time should be not more than 1/2 your house bank capacity.
If you have a pair of Group 24's...75 amphours max
If you have a pair of Group 27's...100
If you have Group 31's... 110
If you have a pair of Golf Cart 6V... 120

Obviously a lot will depend on the temps outside and in the coach...but this will give you a worst case...
If you visit the coach...a couple of hours on the genny can get you back to 80% full in most cases.
Hope this helps and here's an example of the clamp meter type I'm talking about. The cheaper ones are usually AC only current measuremet.
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-UT204-A...dc+clamp+meter
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Old 08-03-2016, 01:37 PM   #11
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Run the genny on Wednesday to recharge the batteries


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That might be a possibility if there is no easy 120V connection.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:02 PM   #12
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We will be going away next week and will be parking our 3011 somewhere for a few days while we stay in a hotel in the downtown area. I need to keep the frig running on batteries/propane for that time and expect that this would not be an issue. Anyone have any prior experience doing this and if so, how long did you run on batteries/propane only?

RVr
Have you considered getting ice/dry ice to keep the refrigerator cold? My driveway slopes, so I can never run the refrigerator until I leave. Getting tired of hauling all that food out on the day of travel, I started freezing water in gallon and half-gallon jugs and putting them with the food in the refrigerator and freezer up to 48 hours before turning it on (great for home drinking water too). Everything stays nice and cold, only ice cream gets somewhat mushy. I would think that a block or large bag of ice would have the same effect. That way you wouldn't have to worry about your battery dying or your propane running out.
If you are nearby, you can always replace the ice halfway through your hotel stay. Whatever you do, I hope it works for you!
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:39 PM   #13
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It mostly depends on your battery,is it a small 12 vor is old on its last gasp?If you have two golf cart batters it will make it no problem.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:57 PM   #14
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Freeze some water in a container, and use it to help the refer cold.
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:24 PM   #15
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My driveway slopes, so I can never run the refrigerator until I leave.
Curious why you don't level the RV to run the fridge in your driveway? Our driveway slopes a lot. I put about 2" of jack pads under the front leveler jacks and the Bigfoot system raises the front tires about 12" off the ground to level out my RV. Of course the back tires are on the ground, chocked and parking brake set hard.

That way we can put out the slide and chill the fridge while getting ready to go.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:40 PM   #16
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One of the best ways to minimize power draw for a fridge running on batteries for an extended period of time is to disconnect the door seal heater strip. Dometic used to have a switch in the fridge to do this but they stopped installing it many years ago. The fridge light and the heater strip can be disconnected by pulling the power wire for them at the fridge control board. I'd recommend doing this with the fridge turned off and NO AC POWER connected to the rig to prevent your causing a problem with the board or getting yourself zapped.

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Old 08-17-2016, 03:21 PM   #17
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Just a quick update. I ran the gen for 30 mins on each day so the DC volts never got lower than 12.3V even though it was a couple of hot days and the frig was probably working hard. So at least I know that option worked.

Thanks all for the input!
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Old 08-17-2016, 04:42 PM   #18
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Curious why you don't level the RV to run the fridge in your driveway? Our driveway slopes a lot. I put about 2" of jack pads under the front leveler jacks and the Bigfoot system raises the front tires about 12" off the ground to level out my RV. Of course the back tires are on the ground, chocked and parking brake set hard.

That way we can put out the slide and chill the fridge while getting ready to go.
I wish I could, but the driveway is too steep, the front tires would have to be 18" - 22" off the ground. Since I have no automatic levelers, I would have to drive up on ramps, but there are none that are that high plus it would make the MH too unstable, not to mention that the tail end would probably hit bottom. And it's a concrete driveway, so I can't dig it out. I know, it sucks! (I had the house before I bought the MH).
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Old 08-20-2016, 08:02 AM   #19
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Solar Panel

A 10 watt solar panel (per battery) will handle the fridge and most of the small parasitic draws on the trailer for a couple of days in the summer. For 10 watt you don't need a charge controller. You batteries will last a lot longer because they will stay charged all the time. For storage, disconnect the trailer from the battery.
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