Sealant Around Tailights

[rekwiat]

Want to re-seal the taillights on my 3010, do not want to use silicone. Any recommendations?

[Brian217]

Originally Posted by rekwiat

Want to re-seal the taillights on my 3010, do not want to use silicone. Any recommendations?

I just used Lexel for redoing a lot of spots around my 3010. Works really well, but Lowe's only had it in clear. I don't know if it comes in white.

[Gidyupgo]

Ok, I'll bite.... why not silicone? Thats my "go to" for this type of leak when the seal isn't sealing, but I am open to a better product if it's out there.

[Total Loss]

I used silicon.
Just used the solvent based stuff.
Difficult to work with but lasts long- cleans up with mineral spirits.

[Slimjc]

I have been using Sikaflex 505 UV. I have been thrilled with it. I use it on every seam that shows any signs of fading. It has built in UV protection so it should last a long time. However, for added security on the inside of the tail lights - I used butyl tape around the perimeter and then sealed the outside edges with 505.

[Gidyupgo]

Very thorough Slim. Sounds like you have had some experience with hard to seal tail lights. Do you do the same on the front clearance lights?

[Slimjc]

Originally Posted by Gidyupgo

Very thorough Slim. Sounds like you have had some experience with hard to seal tail lights. Do you do the same on the front clearance lights?

I am trying to figure out a solution for the clearance lights - I ordered some sealed dragon eyes that I am going to give a shout this weekend - I can update once finished - so far I am liking the idea since they are sealed LED.

[robhagen]

hey,
i have a 2017 camper. the tail lights were poorly installed, and need sealing.
my dealer warned about doing repairs myself, for concern of voiding warranty.
the last time i had my BRAND NEW camper in for warranty work, i got charged full price for the repair, after the work was done.
i'm in a quandary here.

[Total Loss]

Originally Posted by robhagen

hey,
i have a 2017 camper. the tail lights were poorly installed, and need sealing.
my dealer warned about doing repairs myself, for concern of voiding warranty.
the last time i had my BRAND NEW camper in for warranty work, i got charged full price for the repair, after the work was done.
i'm in a quandary here.

Sealing a poorly sealed contact point yourself should not void ANY warranty. Tell them you actually helped them by being proactive in mitigating what could be more extensive moisture damage.
Unless somehow you damaged a component- then it would not be warranty...it would be negligence or an accident.
If some dealer told me that I would laugh in his face, and go elsewhere or fix it myself. Contact the manufacturer and explain the issues with the dealer if they give you static on a warranty repair.

My dealer ordered me a taillamp and shipped it to me to install myself under warranty just this year.

[jeff64]

I'm a firm believer in dielectric grease on most types of exposed electrical connections, grounds and bulbs

[shooter2]

Use NON leveling no sag Dicore calk on all vertical seams and self leveling on roof and other horizontal panels.

[Slimjc]

Originally Posted by shooter2

The factory uses Butyl tape to bed and seal the tail lights at the factory.
Pull the tail lights and put a perimeter strip of buytl tape and reinstall . Tighten screws in slowly after making contact with tape so tape will oooz out and lamps will be set in the butyl bedding. Then use a plastic knife or similar to run around perimeter of lights and remove excess. It will be permanently sealed. The butyl tape is what your roof penetrations are bedded in to seal the penetrations.

Perfect description

[gmacklem]

Originally Posted by shooter2

Use NON leveling no sag Dicore calk on all vertical seams and self leveling on roof and other horizontal panels.

That is what I did last year and now I need to do it again.

[shooter2]

Originally Posted by gmacklem

That is what I did last year and now I need to do it again.

I would want to know why the calk only lasted one year. Is there an actual gap/ split in the butyl tape that the light housing is bedded in?

I replaced my incandescent tail lights with LED assemblies. They were so stuck on with the factory butyl tape ( they were beded with so much butyl tape that they would never ever leak )I that I had to use a butcher knife to cut and scrape the butyl from the fiberglass while prying out on the light frame with a large screwdriver. It took longer to break the lights loose, clean the old super sticky butyl tape off than to splice wires, run butyl tape around perimeter, set and screw the lights on snug, get a beer and finish seating the lights by tightening the screws a turn or two every 1/2 hr, another beer while watching game between screw tweaking until fully seated. I do not think that they will ever need resealing,

[ATVer]

If the problem is the same as I had the leak was between the lens and the light body not between the light body and the coach. I filed a small weep hole at the bottom of the lens and sealed the rest of it against the light body using dielectric grease. Been 4 years with no issues and it will be easy to remove the lens if a bulb change is needed.

[wana65stang]

I am surprised that no one has suggested using plumbers putty, it works great! lay a bead behind the lens and reinstall , remove the oozed out putty and good to go. Stops the leaks and you can remove the lens easily if needed.

[LTRVing]

wana65stang:
My SS3170's previous owner made a bit of a mess, siliconing around the outside of the entire lens housing. I think the plummers putty is an idea, are you sealing the whole unit or just the individual lens covers? Thanks.

[wana65stang]

LTRVing you can use in both cases, pull the lamp body away from wall and put a bead behind then reattach , it will conform to the low and high spots then just remove excess that has been squeezed out. Do the same on the lens to lamp body. Easy to remove lens if you ever have to and will keep any water out.

[George-B]

Originally Posted by LTRVing

wana65stang:
My SS3170's previous owner made a bit of a mess, siliconing around the outside of the entire lens housing. I think the plummers putty is an idea, are you sealing the whole unit or just the individual lens covers? Thanks.

I have read elsewhere that Plumbers Putty may react with plastic.
"Most rigid plastics installed using putty will eventually lose their durable, resilient structural characteristics, and become brittle – sometimes brittle enough to break with your fingers."

Here is an article with the reference in it:
Using Plumber’s Putty with Plastics | Sioux Chief Blog

[Brewhedd]

Originally Posted by rekwiat

Want to re-seal the taillights on my 3010, do not want to use silicone. Any recommendations?

According to what I've been told the stuff used around tail lights, gutter spouts, etc is this:


geocel 2300 | eBay