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Old 03-06-2018, 06:27 PM   #1
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Slide won’t work on 2003 sun-seeker 3100

My slide out will not operate even though we’re plugged into shore power at the campground. I bought this RV from my late brothers wife so I didn’t get much info with it. Is there a fuse or a manual crank so I can open it up while we’re here? I can see that the battery cables on the RV batteries are corroded but don’t have many tools to clean them up. Another thing is that we use to hear a fan under the bed (converter/inverter?) running sometimes but dont hear it anymore. Meanwhile, I’ll try to find something to clean the cables. Thanks for any info!
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:21 PM   #2
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My slide out will not operate even though we’re plugged into shore power at the campground. I bought this RV from my late brothers wife so I didn’t get much info with it. Is there a fuse or a manual crank so I can open it up while we’re here? I can see that the battery cables on the RV batteries are corroded but don’t have many tools to clean them up. Another thing is that we use to hear a fan under the bed (converter/inverter?) running sometimes but dont hear it anymore. Meanwhile, I’ll try to find something to clean the cables. Thanks for any info!
The more info you can post, the easier it is to get help. 2003 is antique for an RV. So 1st shot in the dark: Are your house batteries fully charged? A voltage reading is helpful.
Your Converter has a fan that cools the power supply that charges your batteries and runs your 12Volt system. If you turn on all the lights it should come on. Speaking of lights, do they work without shore power?
Are they nice and bright?

Edit: Yes there are fuses an breakers in your power supply panel. Sounds like it may be under the bed. The slide is 12v so look for a fuse. The breakers are for 120v.
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Old 03-06-2018, 07:59 PM   #3
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The more info you can post, the easier it is to get help. 2003 is antique for an RV. So 1st shot in the dark: Are your house batteries fully charged? A voltage reading is helpful.
Your Converter has a fan that cools the power supply that charges your batteries and runs your 12Volt system. If you turn on all the lights it should come on. Speaking of lights, do they work without shore power?
Are they nice and bright?

Edit: Yes there are fuses an breakers in your power supply panel. Sounds like it may be under the bed. The slide is 12v so look for a fuse. The breakers are for 120v.
To Be Con
No they are not that bright. In fact, when the 12 v is switched on, they sorta shut of every 10 seconds or so. I thought by plugging into shore power it would make up for bad batteries. I’ve got a lot to learn with no manual. The batteries must be low but is it the converter or the batteries or both? Everything else (TVs, fans, microwave, lights) seem to work ok on shore power. I’m confused! In the meantime, I’ll go test the battery voltage. Thanks
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Old 03-06-2018, 08:29 PM   #4
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Well, I just checked the batteries and they barely have any voltage at all. Why does everything else work on shore power but not the slide? So. Is there a manual place to crank it out?
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Old 03-06-2018, 09:02 PM   #5
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Just reset all the breakers and checked the fuses and all are ok but the converter fan still doesn’t come on with lights and tv on.
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Old 03-07-2018, 10:02 AM   #6
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Think of it this way. There are two electrical systems in your RV. A 12V system that operates your lights, slide out, exhaust fans, water pump, LP gas detector, radio, (TV if it is 12v), furnace and ignition functions on your fridge and water heater.
Your 120v system operates your Converter which in turn will charge your 12v house batteries, Air Conditioner, Microwave, Refrigerator, Electrical Outlets, Water Heater if equiped with 120v element and TV/Entertainment system if they are 120v.
Your chassis is 100% 12v Ford and has nothing*to do with the coach system(s).

It is very possible that your slideout will work if you correct your battery issue.

As for your slide out emergeny operation question: Dont know what kind of slide out you have or who makes it. 2003 really throws this question into a different category. Sorry, just not enough info to venture a guess. Hope you can find a current or previous owner to help you.

Edit: Found a link that might help you; http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post421393
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Old 03-07-2018, 12:19 PM   #7
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Well, I just checked the batteries and they barely have any voltage at all. Why does everything else work on shore power but not the slide? So. Is there a manual place to crank it out?
I think that your dead batteries are pulling down your converter and maybe even shutting it down. You probably have a shorted cell and that could draw way too much current for your converter. You really need to get those batteries out of there. At least disconnect them until you get a new battery.

Just a thought and I'm not sure if this would work...disconnect your dead coach batteries and jump your engine battery to the coach. That should get you enough juice to operate your slide. Just don't run your engine battery down to the point that you can't start your engine!
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:32 PM   #8
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Our 2011 Sunseeker 3100 has a manual slide crank point. It's a hex head on a shaft that is accessible from the compartment below the slide. Look at the top of the compartment liner for a hole about 3/4 inches in diameter. Put a socket on the hex and turn it to run the slide in or out. Unlike some slide drives, there nothing that has to be released to be able to crank it. I tried it once and it turned easily with a 3/8 inch ratchet.

You may have a battery booster switch that ties the chassis 12 volt system to the coach 12 volt system. Ours has a switch on the side of the driver's set. Start the engine and hold the switch down. That should give you 12 volts to the coach even with dead batteries or a weak convertor, allowing someone to operate the slide switch to "In" or "Out" while you hold the switch down. There's an automatic controller that ties the coach and chassis 12 volt systems together when one is operating and the other is not. It allows the coach system to charge the chassis battery, and the chassis alternator to provide 12 volts to the coach when you are driving. The controller only connects the two systems if there is enough voltage on the side that is operating, preventing one from draining the other's battery, or batteries. The switch on the driver's seat engages this system for temporary use regardless of the states of charge.


If you are new to RV's, look in the library of this forum for articles on the 12 volt system. Someone may post links to useful articles. Sorry, but I don't have time to look any up right now.
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:49 PM   #9
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Thanks “duckogram” and “ken and carol” for the help. Unfortunately, I’m on my own as far as contacting the previous owner because my older brother passed away last September. He did have a lot of the owners manuals for different appliances but nothing on the slide out. Fortunately, this was just a quick local trip and we’re pulling out today. It was still a fun trip but just a little cramped which is not the end of the world! First thing is batteries! We’ve been out 3 different trips for a week at a time and all was well so we’re off to a good start. It’s awesome to have access to “Forest River forums” and the helpful people here! Thanks again! Scott
RIP Big brother!
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Old 03-07-2018, 01:59 PM   #10
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Rambler guy, I just saw your reply and thanks so much to you as well! I knew the switch was an extra boost to start the truck but did not know that it works both ways. I’m more than than grateful for your detailed explanation. Very helpful people here! Thanks all!
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Old 03-07-2018, 02:14 PM   #11
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Happy to help. There is no “owners manual” for slideouts. There are technical pubs and operating instructions available from the manufacturer. The coach owners manual is generic at best. You can get almost anything you need online. My condolences for the loss of your brother. I experienced that a couple of years ago. If the batts do not solve the problem and you want to troubleshoot it, repost with pics and I’m sure the “gang” can help you work through it. RV’s require time and patience to keep them on the road. Oh, and a good supply of money is helpful.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:04 PM   #12
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Also, depending on your converter there may be fuses in the converter that have blown FWIW.
Secondly, pull the batteries out and clean all the terminals well with baking soda and a soft brush, rinse and then coat with a terminal protecting chemical commonly found in auto parts stores. Have the batteries checked by a good dealer. Batteries should be replaced in pairs if replacement is needed. Charge the new batteries with a trickle charger for 24 hours or until they are at peak power. Reinstall and check to see if the lights are working better and then see if the converter is running with all the lights on in the coach. If it is you are making good progress now test the slide. During my predelivery inspection I was told that our slide (Lippert design) should only be run in/out when connected to shore power or we have the generator on. Do not know if this is standard procedure or not but we follow it and have had no issues. Our coach is a '13 3100SS Sunseeker. May be a lot of differences for sure.
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Old 03-07-2018, 08:36 PM   #13
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Well batteries are the first step. A fully charged one should open your slide.
Next step will be to check if your converter is working. While plugged into the campground power... check the voltage at your battery terminals. Anything less than 13 volts means your converter is either no longer working or the fuses on the converter are blown and need replacement....and your new battery will be toast in short order. Since your coach is a 2003...the converter is rather obsolete anyway and a new one with 3 or 4 stage charging will preserve your batteries and charge much more effectively. Suggest you get something in the 45 to 55 amp range unless you are gonna greatly expand the standard battery configuration. ProgressiveDynamics pd9245c or Iota DLS45 with charge wizard/SmartIQ charging would be good choices.
Good luck & condolences... hope you can have some fun now.
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Old 03-08-2018, 12:55 AM   #14
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I'm back at home now with a long list of things to do on the RV. I wanted to jump right in with the batteries but someone else had different ideas. My driveway has a little bit of a dip at the curb so I put 2x12's to bridge it so my hitch doesn't drag. I didn't realize that my trailer light, boat light and my toad connection had fallen down and it got between the cement and the hitch. Was not pretty!! Three different plug ins! Oh well, so much for plans. I didn't like the blue crimp connectors anyway so i soldered and heat shrunk everything back the way it was and this time it's zip tied securely on top of the frame! Now then, back to my batteries. Thanks again to all!
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Old 03-08-2018, 01:19 AM   #15
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Good luck.
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Old 03-08-2018, 02:05 AM   #16
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Since you don't have the documentation for the RV I suggest you look for all the appliances and write down the manufacturer and model number. Forest River does not make the appliances, they are made by a third party and installed by FR. Use your favorite search engine and enter that info. You will find the documents on the manufacturers website.

Here's some other information you will find useful. You may find that not all the info applies to your RV but most of it will.

The “12 Volt Side of Life” file is on Forest River Forums in the Library > Power and Electrical section in the light green bar at the top of the page and is a download and is found here. Forest River Forums - Downloads - 12 volt side of Life

Disclaimer: These links and articles were compiled by wmtire. He is a site team member of forestriverforums (FRF). If you give thanks, then give it to him. I had nothing to do with gathering the information, I’m just passing it along.


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1743883

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...nt-152813.html

Electrical Management System (EMS) or Surge Protection
What Surge Protector is best for my RV? | Learn To RV


“I always recommend these following links to newer RV owners. It explains a RV's different electrical systems, as well as what works off of 120 volt AC vs. 12 volt DC. Not knowing your RV experience, The below is a copy and paste, and I usually recommend it to those just starting out. Some of it, you may already know, or may not be applicable to your particular RV. You will be able to filter out what pertains to your situation or not. I would suggest you read the electric threads and energy management first, and then the converter thread. This will help explain your different electrical systems of your RV, and how they operate...as well as what the converter does. The very first link will explain what operates off what system.” - wmtire


Basic electric:


Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)


https://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php


RV Electric

Your very important converter:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)


Inverters and residential refrigerators in RV's:

http://rveducation101.com/articles/rvinverters.pdf

More reading so you understand the different electrical systems of your RV.

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Installing a dedicated 30 amp RV outlet at home:

How to wire a RV 30 amp outlet

Suburban water heater (if applicable to your RV):

Suburban's electric switch and much more

Suburban Water Heater Video Guides

Water Heater bypass/crossover valves:

NO (OR LUKEWARM) HOT WATER -Please read first


And the newest additions to help understand what constitutes a true full cylinder in refilling vs exchanging propane cylinders... as well as how the automatic propane changeover regulator works:

Propane Cylinders (Refilling vs Exchanging)

Propane automatic changeover regulator
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Old 03-08-2018, 03:44 PM   #17
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Holy smokes Scrapper! That's a lot of really good info!! Thanks and thanks especially to WMTIRE for writing them!
I think I'm in information overload. Awesome articles on everything! These articles clear up a lot of questions that I didn't even know I had yet.
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:52 PM   #18
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Holy smokes Scrapper! That's a lot of really good info!! Thanks and thanks especially to WMTIRE for writing them!
I think I'm in information overload. Awesome articles on everything! These articles clear up a lot of questions that I didn't even know I had yet.
Your welcome. As I have in the disclaimer, give all the thanks to wmtire. I just passed on his info because I know he can not always be on the forums.
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Old 03-10-2018, 02:18 AM   #19
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Update

#1 I just thought I'd share my follies. I finally got the 2 group 27 batteries out. I had to lay them on their side to wrestle them out the door, not fun! They were beyond bad! My brother had put "Flow Right" fillers on the batteries because they are underneath the rv and are almost impossible to check or water. The fillers work like a float in each cell that stops the flow of water when it's full. On mine the sulfides or whatever it is had built up on top of the plates so bad that it shut off the incoming water just like the water was suppose to. There were 3 cells between the two that were dry! Needless to say, new batteries helped a lot.
#2 After fixing the trailer wire harness where I ground it to shreds, I was going to level the RV so I could finally try the slide. I started it and then I couldn't get it out of park. I thought it was torque locked because it is on a bit of an incline. I started reading again and found out that it might not be that after all. Long story short, When I shredded the harness it shorted out and blew the brake light fuse. Replaced that and it came out of park as well.
I think I'm making progress. Now to see if the converter is toast. (or anything else) You haven't heard the last of me! Thanks again for all the help!!
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Old 03-10-2018, 09:02 AM   #20
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It sounds like you are making progress. Soon you will be helping others by sharing your experiences. That is what this forum and the overall RV community is about. My only suggestion is that you try to post pics with your issues (or just for the heck of it). They really help.
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