Spare tire and jack

[Bob Gowryluk]

sorry but his reply must have been for someone else

[grumpy0374]

Originally Posted by Bob Gowryluk

sorry but this reply must have been for someone elde==se

it's in reply to the OP.
As for where to store the spare...if it a Ford chassis then there is most likely space behind the rear axle...thats where the spare is stored on E series vans. The cut a way chassis usually come from Ford with them, but the rv manufacturers take them off, maybe 50-60% of the time, and then want to charge you for buying a spare from them. Neat, huh!!!
Some rigs have a large enough storage compartment to store one. If you don't tow a toad then you can use the receiver hitch to carry one. In my case I mounted a front 2 inch receiver hitch on our Ford rig, and carry the spare mounted there using a specifically made spare tire/wheel mount.
Just check past posts about "spare tire storage", and look for those threads concerning motor homes. Trailers and 5th wheels have their own storage problems and fixes.
Grumpy

[Bonjoey]

Does your coach comes with a spare already? Or did you added one and that’s why you attached it in the front. I kinda like the front spare location just like older mh’s but does it affects the rad/ac cooling?

[A32Deuce]

That would be my concern.

[grumpy0374]

Originally Posted by Bonjoey

Does your coach comes with a spare already? Or did you added one and that’s why you attached it in the front. I kinda like the front spare location just like older mh’s but does it affects the rad/ac cooling?

My Lexington came with a spare mounted in the rear/below, behind the rear axle. I mounted a class 3 front mount receiver hitch, and use a Curt spare tire carrier to carry it. Have never had a problem with any type of over heating either coolant or trans fluid. I have a Scan Gauge 2, and constantly monitor the temps. 5 years now without any problems, including mountain roads.
I would never risk my rig just to do a bit of weight transfer. Highest temp I ever observed was 211 degrees. That was running east on I-80 west of Denver. Looong interstate grade, around 6-7% for miles. Full load, towing our Subaru Crosstrek, running about 35 mph in truck lane. 211 is not even considered overly hot for a V-10, and usual temps are around 195-198, running 65 mph.
Grumpy

[grumpy0374]

To the op, BonJoey...
Changing a tire on motorhome comes down to...
Knowledge to do it
Ability to do it
Proper tools to do it.
If your not comfortable with doing a change ( it's not hard but requires a lot of being careful and not rushing...you are dealing with 6-7 tons of motor vehicle), at least try to find a way to carry the spare. Roadside assistance will bring you a tire, usually the correct size, but you are at their mercy as to the cost. Assistance dose not cover the cost of a tire/wheel if they have to bring it to you. I'm 70 now and still physically able to do a change. There may come a time in the future, 10-15 years or so where I can't and then I'll leave it to someone else.
Grumpy

[Garrette]

As stated, do a search for tire.
On my 2014 Sunseeker, my spare in located under the chassis behind the fuel tank between the frame rails. Mine was mounted by a threaded rod, piece of rectangular tubing, washers and a single nut. There is an included safety chain. After 2 uses, the rod stripped so I mounted a tire winch for raising and lowering the spare tire.
The spare weights in at 90-100 lbs. Bench pressing the spare tire while trying to get the tubing and nut back on is next to impossible.
If you are planning on changing your own tores,as stated, you will need to relocate the tire or put in a tire winch if yours does not already have one.
If you have the Bigfoot leveling system, you can lift the rear with it. Of course, you will need to chock the front tires and have a safety stand or cribbing to place under the axle for safety. Do not rely on the Bigfoot jacks to change a tire no matter how tempting.
Getting the lug nuts off is a bear and as stated, you will need the tools. Sometimes the inner and outer rims can get stuck together. You will need a plan for getting them unstuck.
After you have purchased everything, I would suggest that you change a tire in your yard before you hit the road. This will give you the opportunity to iron out your tire changing procedure. Last tire change, I had the shop spread a little neverseeze graphite grease on the rim face.
There is a small roll pin in the rear hub that protrudes out to engage the small hole in the rim. This is to clock the tires to align the rim holes in the correct position for the valve stem access. This small pin will make you have a cussing fit when reinstalling the spare and the tire will not push on. Remember that 95-100 lbs. Just align the pin to the small hole in the rim. Easily overlooked. If you do not have a pin, mark the valve stem locations relative to each other on both the flat and the spare. Save another cussing fit when you want to check the air.
Hope this helps in some small way.

[jbrosecity]

Originally Posted by grumpy0374

I have a Scan Gauge 2, and constantly monitor the temps. 5 years now without any problems, including mountain roads.

I had a diesel Scan Gauge 2 on an older Class A and took advice from someone on the forum and bought one for the Forester. Easy-peasy plug into the ODB port and velcro to the dash. Monitors engine coolant by default and you can follow the special X-gauge instructions to set it up for the TFT (trans fluid). I really appreciate being able to monitor those temps closely flat towing our Dodge Durango. The 2019 V-10 has plenty of power for towing up over the Siskiyous and the California Grapevine... just back from such a trip. Trans temp never went above 210, engine coolant around 212 and never slowed below 50. Very gratifying. Won't leave home without it!

[Bob meyer]

What's the trick of getting down the spare on the Sunseeker 3050S? It's bolted tight to the under frame which seems secure. Backing off the bolt drops a heavy tire and rim in your face. Got to be an safe way of doing this.

[A32Deuce]

I made a rack for mine and drop it with a small light weight floor jack.

[Bob meyer]

Can you get a pix of that rack for us?

[Iwannacamp]

Here you go.... SWAG Off Road Bottle Jack Axle Cradle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBFPN82..._zez4Cb9N8NWHW




Or....they can do it

https://safejacks.com/collections/bo...ck-accessories

[A32Deuce]

Originally Posted by Bob meyer

Can you get a pix of that rack for us?

If the RV was here at this time, I would. When I get it here I will.

[jbrosecity]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

Here you go.... SWAG Off Road Bottle Jack Axle Cradle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBFPN82..._zez4Cb9N8NWHW

Nice item for those who don't have autolevel hydraulic jacks - but then I feel sorry for those that do not. We specifically ruled out Thor and several other brands that only came with "stabilizer jacks". This is unthinkable in Class A's which is where we came from. There is no substitute for autolevel hydraulic jacks IMHO. It is a rare campsite which is perfectly level and one-touch autoleveling is a "must-have" to this ole camper. Endless fiddling back and forth with leveling blocks is not something I wanna do except in extremely sloped campsites when leveling jacks alone can't do the trick. Even if you can put up with an offlevel rig, your refrigerator can't. And using the jacks to change a spare tire is a huge benefit as well.

[bayoubelle]

using the jacks to change a spare tire is a huge benefit as well.[/QUOTE]



Not recommended

[rocco52]

I have camped using the six point level up system many times where two wheels were off the ground. Why would changing a tire be any different?

[bayoubelle]

Originally Posted by rocco52

I have camped using the six point level up system many times where two wheels were off the ground. Why would changing a tire be any different?

Just quoting BIGFOOT techs. They even said to never let the rear wheels off the ground.
I didn’t ask why, I just follow their advice.

[Iwannacamp]

I would naturally assume one would put something under it. To me is common sense. I would at a minimum leave on tire on.

[RamblerGuy]

Originally Posted by Bob meyer

What's the trick of getting down the spare on the Sunseeker 3050S? It's bolted tight to the under frame which seems secure. Backing off the bolt drops a heavy tire and rim in your face. Got to be an safe way of doing this.

Here's how I managed the spare and jacking. Of course, as you can probably guess, it was in my driveway. We've traveled almost 60,000 miles and I haven't had any tire trouble.

To get the spare down and then back up, I placed Lynx leveling blocks under it. I could lift one side of the tire onto the blocks with it resting on the ground. I could then maneuver it into place with the blocks supporting most of the weight. Of course, if I had a flat on the road, I wouldn't take the time to put it back underneath the coach. I'd find another place for the flat.

The Ford E450 front axles don't have a good flat surface for the jack to lift and the axles swing up or down as you lift or lower them. I made a jack ram adapter to fit the jacking pin on the front side of the front axle. I split a piece of pipe that just fits the pin and welded it to a pipe cap that just fits the jack ram. Notice the end of the split pipe is flush with the edge of the pipe cap so it fits well.

You may notice the 2 X 4's above the tire. I put them there to support the sagging storage compartment floor. After the photo was taken I added brackets to hold them in place.

[dudeguy]

I've had to change a flat on the side of the highway. I keep a ramp type jack with me. I was on my way to go racing so I had all my tools with me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I4JPZE..._9P04CbYSPKBV2

This ramp works well but I have to put a 2x8 under it to get enough lift.