Sunseeker door latch improvement

[BehindBars]

The coach door on our 2020 Sunseeker has been a source if frustration since day one. I have made several improvements: modified the length of the gas spring, replaced the weatherstripping, and enlarged the slots in the striker plate to compensate for variable motorhome body twist. The door still whistles when going down the highway, but I have managed to reduce the noise somewhat.

Yesterday's project was to address the unnecessary effort needed to operate the latch or slam the door shut. The internal spring was just way too stiff. So, I found a similar dimension spring in the junk drawer that required less force to compress. I did not measure the spring rates but I estimate the new grey spring in the photo had a spring stiffness of about 60-70 percent of the original black spring.

I reassembled the latch using the new spring, and ah, it's so much easier to operate now.

We had a Fleetwood class C for over 20 years and never had door problems. I never would have predicted our new Sunseeker would have such a troublesome entrance door.

[ChrisParise]

Originally Posted by BehindBars

The coach door on our 2020 Sunseeker has been a source if frustration since day one. I have made several improvements: modified the length of the gas spring, replaced the weatherstripping, and enlarged the slots in the striker plate to compensate for variable motorhome body twist. The door still whistles when going down the highway, but I have managed to reduce the noise somewhat.

Yesterday's project was to address the unnecessary effort needed to operate the latch or slam the door shut. The internal spring was just way too stiff. So, I found a similar dimension spring in the junk drawer that required less force to compress. I did not measure the spring rates but I estimate the new grey spring in the photo had a spring stiffness of about 60-70 percent of the original black spring.

I reassembled the latch using the new spring, and ah, it's so much easier to operate now.

We had a Fleetwood class C for over 20 years and never had door problems. I never would have predicted our new Sunseeker would have such a troublesome entrance door.

An effective mod. Thanks for sharing

Fwiw, I've posted a door issue previously concerning wind whistle and rattling (for lack of a better word) when traveling.

On my 2006 2860DS, after about a year of ownership I discovered the door window was missing butly tape around the window frame & the door glass was bouncing around in the door frame and of course there was air leakage, and maybe water too, around the opening.

My unit was a 1 season rental purchased as new. No idea if it came off the assembly line that way or the window glass had been broken at some time post production and repaired improperly.

A trip to NAPA for butly tape and it was a quick fix.

Happy Thanksgiving

Chris

[Sunseeker16]

I had wind whistle from my entry door that was driving me crazy. One day I glanced down the steps and saw light at the bottom front and back corners of the door. Come to find out the light was from the outside raised rounded section of the frame. I caulked the bottom of the frame and no more whistle.

[newRVer]

Hmmmm. I have made several modifications to try and make the door easier to close. Maybe replacing the spring with a less stiffer one is the answer...????

RVr

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by newRVer

Hmmmm. I have made several modifications to try and make the door easier to close. Maybe replacing the spring with a less stiffer one is the answer...????

RVr

Two reasons the door was hard to close:

1) The slots in the striker plate for the door pins were just big enough for the pins. But every time the motorhome was parked or leveled, the motorhome body and door frame can twist enough that the pins may not line up with the slots. No one striker plate adjustment could account for all scenarios. Repeated adjustments did no good. So, I widened the slots in the striker plate.

2). The latch spring was too stiff, as I mentioned in this thread. With the lighter spring, the door now closes using the force one would expect to use to close a typical slam latch door.

[newRVer]

Originally Posted by BehindBars

Two reasons the door was hard to close:

1) The slots in the striker plate for the door pins were just big enough for the pins. But every time the motorhome was parked or leveled, the motorhome body and door frame can twist enough that the pins may not line up with the slots. No one striker plate adjustment could account for all scenarios. Repeated adjustments did no good. So, I widened the slots in the striker plate.

2). The latch spring was too stiff, as I mentioned in this thread. With the lighter spring, the door now closes using the force one would expect to use to close a typical slam latch door.

I have noticed the first issue you mentioned. I have ground down the edges of the striker plate to try and make it easier for the pins to engage but as you said depending on whether the RV is leveled or not and or just its parked position the door will move ever so slightly and may misalign with the slots with the pins. This is still partly my issue and may require taking the striker plates out and grinding the entire length of the slot to provide a better fix.

[BehindBars]

Originally Posted by newRVer

I have noticed the first issue you mentioned. I have ground down the edges of the striker plate to try and make it easier for the pins to engage but as you said depending on whether the RV is leveled or not and or just its parked position the door will move ever so slightly and may misalign with the slots with the pins. This is still partly my issue and may require taking the striker plates out and grinding the entire length of the slot to provide a better fix.

It is interesting that you noted the same issue with door frame twist or misalignment under different parking/leveling conditions.

On my particular door, the striker plates are captive. I cannot remove them without removing the entire door frame from the motorhome, which I would not do. I used a dial caliper to periodically measure the slot width as I ground the slots larger with a small grinding stone on a Dremel rotary tool. I don’t remember now exactly how much I increased the slot width, but whatever I did it was sufficient.

[Niels Jensen]

I have a 2016 MBS 2400 WS. My coach door squeaks all the time, sometimes rattles, and sometimes whistles. Plus, on colder nights a lot of cold air infiltration. Basically a lousy door design. It's too bad FR put such a lousy coach on a great chassis! I've greases the two insert bolts without any lasting reduction in the squeak. I'll try the grinding you described. Ugh!

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Niels Jensen

I have a 2016 MBS 2400 WS. My coach door squeaks all the time, sometimes rattles, and sometimes whistles. Plus, on colder nights a lot of cold air infiltration. Basically a lousy door design. It's too bad FR put such a lousy coach on a great chassis! I've greases the two insert bolts without any lasting reduction in the squeak. I'll try the grinding you described. Ugh!

The receiver plate grinding is to compensate for the flexing of the unit so the door will close normally. It would likely not be a resolution for a squeak.

[Shayshay]

Does anyone know where we can find a replacement lock for a 2006 sunseeker forest river rv...we have tired camper world and others.

[RVrover]

Originally Posted by Shayshay

Does anyone know where we can find a replacement lock for a 2006 sunseeker forest river rv...we have tired camper world and others.

When on sale, this option is as costly as the OEM lock, but much better. Check first if it fits your need. https://www.amazon.com/stores/RVLock...8-FD9F23507E4C

[jsay]

The RV Latch w/ digital combo is a great improvement.