All of you made a huge difference and continue to do so in my RV travel. THANK YOU for all of your helpful posts and wise advice. Following the footsteps of giants and helpful many great people in this great community, I plan to post the mods I did over the past five years in my 2018 SunSeeker AKA "Savario" (LINK), which I bought new and did three years full-time travel to more than 30 states and putting 28,000 miles on it (LINK). I did a mix of campgrounds and a lot of boondocking, which necessitated my mods. I am ready to hit the road again and will do more new mods to make my travel more pleasurable. Please, feel free to share yours.
Until I post details, here are some of the mods that come to mind that I will post and share why I did them (in the order of value to me):
Complete solar setup with lithium batteries upgrade.
Adjusting my Caster and having proper alignment. (LINK)
Propane connection inside for my Catalytic Heater.
Extend-a-stay propane kit.
Cover all my roof vents.
Laundry sorting system in the basement.
Shelves in the bedroom closet.
Storage above the cab area.
Computer arm monitor.
Cable organizer system for my computer accessories.
great post and we have the Forester 3011DS and absolutely love it..
here is ours during a quick getaway
Can't see any difference in the 3010DS and the 3011DS. Ours looks identical to yours even on the inside
__________________
Michael Fullana
2018 Forester 3011DS
Mod 1: Steam your diamond shield, decals, stickers, and logos!
Before I go over my older mods, I'll start with this ultimate, safest, and easiest solution to removing the diamond shield from the hood and cab of your RV, which can also work to remove any decals, stickers, and logos. I have a 5 years old shield installed on a full body paint with a clear coat.
For the diamond shield, removing the film is easy using a blow dryer. It comes right off. The glue left behind is another story.
The internet including YouTube and this forum promoted inefficient and hand-breaking methods to remove it. Save yourself! I tried all of them and finally gave up when I had my first dent using a safe plastic razor! Frustration known to cause this and more severe outcomes depend on your upbringing so I didn't want to take any more chances knowing that I was raised by a pack of wolves! I poured all kinds of solvents/chemicals and it was no fun. See the first photo attached after hours of work, what I got! Here is an example of what NOT to do: A pro who has done thousands of these removals telling you that he needs to spend hours and when he started he used to spend a week to get one removed! Good luck to us!
From all the options I tried, here are the final three (skip to option 1):
Option (1) and the only thing I recommend, unless you want to torture yourself: If you don't have a steam machine, get this steamer for $50 at this time, which can be used for other functions if you wish, and follow this video. You will get the film and the glue removed in one move once you carefully do as the guy did in the video! It should take you TEN minutes to complete the job and a few hours bragging and giving yourself a pat on the back for a job well done. Do NOT listen to other videos using the steam method. Still, no matter how you try to reinvent the wheel and mess it up, you will be better off than doing it any other way. I used up to level 6 on the steamer and it was fine. Safest method for your paint. Steam from a distance is safe to the touch for short period for most people, but the device and especially tips should be avoided while operating or use heat resistant gloves.
Tips for a flawless outcome:
1. It is optional but you can use any plastic razor to get a grip of the film's edge safely and easily before using your hand to pull the film out.
2. Keep the film you removed from sticking back to the hood or you will contaminate the area. Keep your glove clean and avoid touching the cleaned area or you will add an extra thing to clean.
3. Once removed, use any Isopropyl alcohol you have around the house (I had 91%) to remove the residue of the film's outer lines and any tiny residue left from the film itself.
4. If you messed things up, which is optional get yourself this eraser or any similar brand name. It will take care of it in no time.
Congrats! Let us know how it went. Go steam it and put a new film if you want. It is easy to remove. - Osama (AKA RVrover)
Mod 2: E450 correct alignment to improve handling and steering
It is not enough to do just an alignment. Left to the technician's judgment he will assume to set the caster at mid-range instead as far +caster as it can be set. Big difference!
If you missed reading it, here is a post I compiled from 10+ years of a proven and simple solution by OP (Harvard) to resolve your current issues with handling.
After almost three years of awful handling, I did the alignment correctly as advised by Harvard and it is like day and night! Now, I can drive almost hands-free on a calm day and with a light one-hand on a windy day. No more tiredness or white knuckles. The RV stays straight with no play or pull even with large trucks and winds.
Mod 3: Add an idler to eliminate the noise from E450 V10
If you hear a chattering noise from your E450 V10 engine, especially at 2100 rpm, it is due to a missing idler that Ford eliminated in 1999. It causes serpentine belt instability as shown in this cool video. I didn't have this issue for a couple of years after I bought mine new, so your milage and luck will vary, but it will annoy if not also concern you at on point.
You don't need to change the belt, but if yours is old, here is the info: Serpentine Belt BC2Z-8620-A. There are two kinds of serpentine belt for this engine. One that covers the AC pulley and one shorter without the AC. Get the right one. Mine is a 2017 Ford E-450 Super Duty V10 6.8L. Info on the old belt reads: BC2E-8620-DA >EPDM< 6PK 2536 Made in Mexico FJPBA
I couldn't find everything I needed in one place. Hopefully, you will get everything from one place or these links will still have them.
Mod 4: Bypass the AC vacuum Canister to fix the dash air
You will wake up one day and scratch your head why your dash air went out and only the AC air blows through the defrost vent. "Why me Zues?" type of feeling.
When it happens, then you have two solutions, which I used the second successfully:
1. Get a dealer or mechanic to spend hours charging you tons to get to the canister and replace it.
2. Bypass it completely. Watch this video (LINK) and either DIY or hire a mechanic to do it in 15 minutes. You can also add a new canister/reservoir in a reachable spot than Ford's decision if the AC cuts off. (LINK)
Mod 5: Dress the grill, protect the radiator, and keep the bugs away
Just a few minutes ago I finished an easy 45-minute mod. Informed and inspired by our own duck from his post here, I learned the importance of protecting the radiator from bugs and debris. Although I was lucky not to face either issue for many years, I didn't want to push my luck any further.
So, I went in a different direction than Duck. Here is what you are going to need:
1. Remove the grill after watching this video.
2. Unless you have a well-stocked shed, then this grill mesh has your name on it. One piece will get you covered.
3. Get three dozen 4 or 6-inch zip ties in gray or light green and they will blend like nothing there unlike any other colors or bigger sizes.
4. Zip, Zip! Snap the grill back and you're done.
5. Take a picture and share your work of art!
If you really want to go all in, then this video or even this one will keep you busy for more than 45 minutes. You can even watch this video and have your custom letters. I can't wait to see someone posting here about it.
For the lower gap in the bumper, I can't think of a better option than what Duck did here, so chances I will end up following his footsteps completing his mission to protect the radiator with this mesh choice.
While we are on the topic of bugs, which they always find a way in, see other places in your RV to protect:
I see from your photos in post #1 that your 2018 Sunseeker fell victim to Forest River’s flooring adhesive flaw, turning the flooring pink on the vertical sections. Do you have your own mod to address this, or have you approached Forest River for a resolution?
I see in your photos (copied below) that the RV spends some time in the sun. I wonder if heat aggravates the adhesive problem? Our Sunseeker, built in 2019, is most always in the shade or indoors, unless we are on the highway. Our flooring has not (yet) turned pink.
__________________
2020 Sunseeker 2440DS on 2019 Ford E-450, Trekker cap, Topaz paint
I see from your photos in post #1 that your 2018 Sunseeker fell victim to Forest River’s flooring adhesive flaw, turning the flooring pink on the vertical sections. Do you have your own mod to address this, or have you approached Forest River for a resolution?
I see in your photos (copied below) that the RV spends some time in the sun. I wonder if heat aggravates the adhesive problem? Our Sunseeker, built in 2019, is most always in the shade or indoors, unless we are on the highway. Our flooring has not (yet) turned pink.
Duck spotted it for me from my photos three years ago and you explained it to me. I decided not to do anything about the two small spots you see in the photos. Duck's solution to replace the whole floor because the Shaw flooring was no longer available was too much for me at the time. Unless mistaken, I think FR warrants the floor and roof for 12 years. It is written somewhere in the paperwork. I can't confirm if the sun is a factor and Duck is more pink than mine as you see from his post.
I used the space under the dinette middle seat for a long time as storage but didn't check the area under the side cushions. Finally, I did learn how to use a screwdriver and took my first shot at the two screws in the plywood. Lo and behold, there is a decent storage area behind the drawers. So, now I doubled my storage spots. The best thing about this area, it is low so I can store heavy items that I don't use frequently like my large inflatable kayak and toys, extra linens, and air compressor.
It is fairly easy to access, and the sides can be accessed by only removing the cushions above them. The middle one, you will need to remove four cushions. You can make hinges like Christian did, but I had to saw a small piece of plywood to accommodate the hinge. It was too much for me to conquer a saw after I finally got over the screwdriver. So, I decided to keep them all without any hinges. They easily lay supported on their own when I open them as you see from the photos.
NOTE: If you are not aware, there is very limited carrying capacity in RVs especially mine. Why in heaven they made these class c to carry 8 people and ask you to never exceed 1682 lbs!? See attached and on the side of your front door. Where people's clothes, food, outdoor gizmos, toys, cooking pots, tools, and more should go? Should we get a 75-meter supporting vessel like A Bezos? Come on, FR. You can do better cause I am not getting a class A.
Here are the info I keep about my RV:
- Dry weight (UVW - Unloaded Vehicle Weight): 12,400 lbs.
- GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) 14,500 lbs.
- GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) 22,000 lbs. (7,500 for a toad, tongue included)
- GVWR REAR 9,600 lbs. - GVWR FRONT 5000 lbs.
I have the same floor plan in my 3011DS we like it but we absolutely hate the dinnette table seating its so uncomfortable. We are thinking of selling it and upgrading to a class A or a super C.
I have the same floor plan in my 3011DS we like it but we absolutely hate the dinnette table seating its so uncomfortable. We are thinking of selling it and upgrading to a class A or a super C.
Okay, we have the same U-shaped dinette, and it’s not anywhere near as comfortable as recliners would be. They are more upright than recliners for sure, however we appreciate the dinette for eating indoors when needed.
Two mods I did do……
We found the single leg of the dinette table was too high. It’s probably a leg length used throughout the RV industry, and although it might be okay for some, it was too high in our setup. You only get a chance to shorten it…..you can’t lengthen it. In small segments, I cut it down to today’s height which works in our setup.
Secondly……
The foam density of the seat cushions (not the backs) was cheap and provided no support when sitting. It compressed so much, you could feel the plywood underneath. We had only the seat cushions redone by an upholsterer who also specializes in automobile restorations, and knows a little about foam density and comfort. The difference is amazing, and we never “hit bottom” anymore.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport with 6 speed Triton V-10
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
Thanks for your feedback, comments & mods. Bring them on!
As stated correctly by Michael AKA CreativeEdge, the FR 3011 DS is identical to the SS 3010DS. The same goes for all the other models of Sunseeker vs Forester. Both are almost structurally and ergonomically identical. The only difference in my 2018 model was Forester's higher price in exchange for a few cosmetic differences like a woodgrain dash in the cab, fiberglass running boards, fabric-covered ceiling, and things I didn't care much for.
I agree with Bezzola. The dinette, sofa, and area above the cab are not the most comfortable to use or to sleep on. Only the bed is comfortable. The area above the cab can be enhanced easily. I use it for storage to distribute the weight between front and back. Ken & Terry's mod for the dinette cushions is a great one. My body learned quickly to tolerate the dinette, but not the sofa, which I dislike. The U-shape dinette is a good idea.
If I find the right person, I would remove the Dinette and the sofa and redesign this slide-out area to my liking. It is a very small investment in comparison to upgrading to Super C or Class A, which some may argue have its own shortcoming.
I learned quickly that if I get 90% of my RV working correctly 90% of the time, I should be a happy camper. With a bit of curiosity, learning about my RV, and good maintenance, I can make it 95%. Same for RV features and with a few crucial mods that others and I will list in this thread, we can make it 95% the dream-RV. The perfect RV is a myth, no matter how much you pay for it. There is always a downside to each of them.
Okay, we have the same U-shaped dinette, and it’s not anywhere near as comfortable as recliners would be. They are more upright than recliners for sure, however we appreciate the dinette for eating indoors when needed.
Two mods I did do……
We found the single leg of the dinette table was too high. It’s probably a leg length used throughout the RV industry, and although it might be okay for some, it was too high in our setup. You only get a chance to shorten it…..you can’t lengthen it. In small segments, I cut it down to today’s height which works in our setup.
Secondly……
The foam density of the seat cushions (not the backs) was cheap and provided no support when sitting. It compressed so much, you could feel the plywood underneath. We had only the seat cushions redone by an upholsterer who also specializes in automobile restorations, and knows a little about foam density and comfort. The difference is amazing, and we never “hit bottom” anymore.
Ditto on the dinette table height. On ours, I cut the table pedestal down about 2-1/8 inches to bring it to a normal table height. The pedestal was also mounted to the floor in the wrong place. I moved the base 3 inches towards the window and got the table centered within the booth. These were just two of many, many fixes needed in the motorhome.
It won’t be long before the dinette booth cushions need to be improved with better foam and nicer covers.
We like the dinette. We had a sofa in the previous motorhome and rarely used it. So, this time around we didn’t bother getting a sofa in our class C.
__________________
2020 Sunseeker 2440DS on 2019 Ford E-450, Trekker cap, Topaz paint
Mod 8: Replace this older Ride-Rite airbag if you have it while you can
One day my Ride-Rite airbags on the passenger side failed. FR told me this kit had a recall. They replaced them at no charge including parts and labor. See the attached PDF and photos of the old one. The old bags failed due to bad design that they corrected in the subsequent years with a new kit (see attached the second PDF and photos). The new bags sit differently and directly on the axle, inside and next to the leaf springs. The old one placement was on top of the leaf springs, which crushed it as you can see from the photos. The new kit further reduced the RV's overall clearance, unfortunately.
This damage also affected the leaf springs on the passenger's side (sagging further than the driver's side). I had to drive on it with a damaged bag for a few hundred miles after waiting for a couple of months until I located someone that can work on it. Most Ford dealers won't touch motor homes even if they are listed on Ford's website that they do, which doesn't make any sense. So, if you can replace the faulty bags, it might be a good idea to do so instead of ruining your vacation.
The bags are supposed to level the coaching side to side in the event of uneven loading, but I find them useless for giving reliable clearance or making any difference while driving. Generally, I dislike these airbags and the entire suspension system. Since 2019, FR improved it a bit, but I didn't drive those.
I ordered and waiting to get a new complete suspension system with fox steering stabilizer kit that I expect to make a huge difference in clearance, handling, and steering with great emphasis on raising my RV and stopping dragging the tail on any slightly slanted roads and driveways. It is an expensive solution in my opinion, but I gave up. It is no fun to hear these screeching sounds and humiliating scraping marks Savario leaves behind on the pavement. Once installed, I will post. I consider it one of my top five crucial mods I made.
My dirty socks and other clothing items are classified as WMD since before WW2. So, for longevity purposes, I opted to banish my laundry from my five senses and used the largest storage compartment for this purpose.
What you need is:
1. Rods of any kind. At first, I used these tension rods to avoid using screws and for easy installation. It held well when the sorting bags are half full. More than this and the rods fall off. So, I decided to take my fears of nailing screws to the mat and muster the courage once again to tackle the screwdriver.
2. One pack of this closet rod holder. They fit my rods perfectly. You will need only 12 out of the 20 included. If you fear screws in the walls, you can use strong double-sided adhesive with the rod holder, which should help the tension rods carry the weight without falling off.
3. Up to nine laundry sorter bags with handles. I had some in my house like these, so I repurposed them as seen in my photos. You can buy the bags separately like these. You can also fashion the handles or buy separately.
You are done! I have 8 bags with all my laundry sorted as I want them washed. When the time comes, I grab a few bags from the rods and carry them to the laundromat. I also use the spacious area under the bags for more storage. Nothing interferes with my laundry. I just make sure not to store anything volatile enough to trigger a chain reaction with my socks. I take my responsibility toward other motorists and campers seriously.
NOTES:
- There is an alternative way to install using only two long rods parallel to the RV instead of 6 rods across it as I did. Then, angle the rods so your laundry bags lay on these two rods the same way in the last photo. I opted for my setup to distribute the weight on many points in the walls and shorter rods rather than only four points and two long rods in the alternative installation. The alternative option may give you better access to drop your clothes in by moving the bags apart, but I found no issue accessing the bags with my setup doing front loading than side loading.
- This compartment is usually used frequently from both sides of the RV, so there is enough air circulation. Don't worry about the stinky laundry getting stinkier.
- You can get creative with this large basement compartment. It is great for many things if you don't want to use it for laundry. I thought of making a few shelves there.
- Reminder: The 3010DS has many places to store things. You can easily go over the max. carrying capacity if you are not careful. Weigh all of your four corners to distribute your goods evenly and make sure you are on the safe side.
Mod 5: Updates - Dress the grill & protect the radiator
Mission accomplished! The front bumper got its matching suit. See original mod here. I preferred not to do it flush over the hole in the bumper as I use it as a step to reach out over the hood.