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Old 03-09-2016, 03:01 PM   #1
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Trouble starting after connecting to land power

Chevy

After a week of being connected to a hook up site the starer wont turn over at all. If I turn the battery disconnect to off, it will start after a few tries. Seems like a switching issue involving the inverter. Any ideas ? It a rarely used 2 yr. Old unit.
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Old 03-09-2016, 03:23 PM   #2
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First try the battery bakup switch on the drivers seat, second go for traditional umper cables.
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Old 03-09-2016, 03:25 PM   #3
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Sorry I miss read the post. Sounds like your house batts are dead and are draining the truck batt. Post in the electrical section the response may be better....
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Old 03-09-2016, 04:50 PM   #4
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Thanks
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:42 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoglou View Post
First try the battery bakup switch on the drivers seat, second go for traditional umper cables.
I am guessing you think we should all carry a set of umpers cables with us ??? Sorry man just poking a little fun !!!
LOL !!!
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:15 AM   #6
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Would you like this thread moved to Electrical? (I can do that for you)

While not a motorhome guy yet, I am familiar with how the charging system works with Battery Control Centers (BCC).

As I understand your post, the starting battery is dead but the house batteries were charging while you were on campground power.

As Hoglou stated you can get going again by pressing the manual override on the Battery Isolation relay. Depending on the coach, that is either a switch on the dash or an actual manual button on the relay itself (some photos to help you find it).

Now, when everything is working properly, the campground power should be charging both the house batteries and the starting battery.

There are fuses in (or near) the BCC that protects the batteries and the BCC that could fail, open, or have corroded terminals preventing charging current from the BCC, through the Isolation Relay, to the starting battery.

Leaving the keys in the truck ignition (when not on shore power) to use items coming off the truck battery will kill it in short order since starting batteries have lots of juice available (for a few minutes), but no capacity to provide lower draws for hours (like playing the dash radio).

I also attached a "generic" BCC diagram to show you how to follow the wires and find the most likely suspect current limiter.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:21 AM   #7
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That is some scary stuff,,, make me wonder how anything could work !!!
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post

Now, when everything is working properly, the campground power should be charging both the house batteries and the starting battery.
In my experience, we've never had a unit that would charge the chassis (starting) battery when plugged into shore power. The isolator circuitry does the opposite - the chassis and house are disconnected when the engine is not running. Only when the engine is started, the circuits shown in many of the images will connect the house and chassis to charge both the chassis and house batteries underway.

When setting for long periods of time, none of the items hooked to the chassis should be running, such as the dash radio. Alternatively, a trickle charger can be connected to the chassis battery & plugged into shore power to keep the chassis battery charged while using those accessories.

As mentioned, press & hold the emergency start switch for a few moments, then while holding it, start the engine.

Running the chassis battery dead will significantly shorten the life of the battery. They only last 5-7 years as a rule anyway, but I've seen them die much sooner when run flat several times.
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Old 03-11-2016, 11:07 AM   #9
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Maybe FR will chime in about sunseeker. If you give a tinker darn about what I think I would say that the dash radio pulls from the house batts, and the engine batt is not charged by shore power due to having a house batt assist switch... if the engine batt was/is good then some other parasitic drain may be at work. The chevy could be review with an OBD, expect the ford can be too. I would spend the twenty bucks at the next oil change to solidify the issue. I could be wrong, but thats no big deal as I am wrong alot. I thought my name was "stopthat" when I was a young'en..

I am interested in the outcome as it relates to all of us.....
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Old 03-11-2016, 02:23 PM   #10
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Hoglou, you are more familiar with your camper and I yield to your experience.

If what you say is true, could you add a blocking diode in the line to the starting battery that will allow charging but not discharging? Seems easy enough to do; I don't know why it would not come that way.
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:31 PM   #11
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Well I am guessing about it. wish there was a chiltons for each model.

herk7789 those are some serious pic.... not to hijack but is there an inverter in there somewhere?
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Old 03-11-2016, 05:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoglou View Post
Well I am guessing about it. wish there was a chiltons for each model.

herk7789 those are some serious pic.... not to hijack but is there an inverter in there somewhere?
Yea, Amen to that.

Those pictures were the result of Google image searches for Battery Control Centers and Isolation relays.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:39 AM   #13
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Get a Trik-L-Start. It charges the coach battery when the house battery is charged. Hooks between the two batteries. Here is their website and Best Converters website for pricing.

Ultra TRIK-L-START Starting Battery Charger/Maintainer

Ultra Trik-L-Start LSL Products

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