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Old 09-26-2017, 08:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by DougW View Post
On our 3010DS the fresh tank is under the bed so unless they made some changes there is no need to crawl under the unit, just lift the bed to get to where the vent line connects to the tank.
Yes, but crawling on the ground under the trailer is SOOOO much more fun.
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Old 09-26-2017, 09:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I have found that a rubber washing machine hose cut in half is the
perfect size to fill a tank.
Most folks toss the old black rubber ones that used to come with a
washing machine and use the braided SS hoses in their place.

A cut off hose shoved in there as FAR as it will go can make all the
difference. Expect a little blow back especially if the vent tube has a
sag in it and is holding water.

How far are you able to shove your fill hose in the fill port??
X2 on this solution. I had the same problem and can only fill with a 3' length of hose. The problem is a kink in the fill hose. On mine, it unkinks when I extend the BR slide but if I have to fill, the slide is in because I don't carry water and only fill when I arrive at the CG.
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Old 09-26-2017, 10:22 PM   #23
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Thanks to all of you for your helpful suggestions. I spoke with the dealer's service department. They had filled the water tank the exact same way I attempted to do. I'll be taking back in soon. So, no clog; maybe a sharp turn just inlet; maybe issues with air vent. I used the wand attachment (the one normally used to flush out the water heater) to slowly fill the tank...and some water was coming out. I also found a funnel with a flexible end that let me pour in the diluted chlorine mixture...more went in than came out. So, not a perfect solution, but I eventually got enough water/solution in the tank. I'll drain it and refill tomorrow. After my first two trips I'll probably have other things for the dealer to check and fix, in addition to the fresh water tank filling issue. Thanks again.
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:17 AM   #24
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On our last TT I could only fill the tank about 1/2 way and the water started to back up and out the fill port. I had to shut the water off for a minute or two to let the air vent out and then I could finish filling the tank to full. I added one of those inline filters to the fill hose and that slowed the rate down to about 2 gpm and then I was able to just let it go to full without stopping to let the air vent 1/2 way through. I took about 15 minutes to fill the 40 gallon tank.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:25 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Is your fresh water fill a gravity fill port?
If so you may need to use a tank filler hose similar to this one...
These fillers are good,,, however if were to use another on,,, I would first glue the tube to the valve,,, years ago my wife was pulling it out,,, and the tube fell off,,, as far as I know it still lives in the FW tank !!!
I made a filler out of a couple feet of hose,,, works much better than that the short filler !!
If you search fresh water fill problems you will find many many pages !!!
I believe the most common problem,,, is water in the air vent !!!
I use a small hose and blow in the air vent,,, also make sure the screen is clean
Sorry if I am late to the party !!!
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Old 09-27-2017, 03:00 PM   #26
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Filling fresh water tank

I had the same problem. First I learned you have to fill it slow which I did the first time no problem. This took a while. 2nd time I filled it fast and water came out the input but registered only a third full. My research found that the vent tube can have a service loop in it that is below the top of the tank. Filling it to fast caused water to get in the tube causing enough back pressure that I couldn't add more water. So, I took a piece of small plastic hose that fit over the vent and blew the water out of the vent tube. Problem solved. Gotta take it slow.
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:00 PM   #27
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<<snip>> My research found that the vent tube can have a service loop in it that is below the top of the tank. <<snip>>
This is not directed at your comment....it's about assembly flaws. It's a rant about sloppy workmanship.

If I'm wrong, please let me know, but...
"Servicing Loop" just means that the vent hose is too long. There is NO REASON WHATSOEVER for there to be any kind of "trap" in this air vent line. It should be just like a sewer vent...as straight "up" as possible so that air can escape...with no place for water to get trapped in the vent line.

Any kind of "trap" is designed specifically to STOP air, because air does not move easily through water if it must first go down. Even a couple inches of "slack" in a vent line creates a water trap. And, imagining what "service loop" might mean, I envision an actual loop in the vent hose. That's ridiculous.

Excess vent hose is a liability that is easily remedied. If there's a lot, the easiest solution is to cut the hose (usually PEX) and install a "coupler" with a couple of hose clamps. This saves the hassle of removing the hose from the fresh tank and the risk of damaging the fitting on the fresh tank. If there's just a bit of excess slack, and if you have the room, you might use a screw-zip-tie to strap it up so it can't fill with water: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-TCV1.../dp/B00213KL76 Most RVs have these things all over the place. Obviously, if you truss up your vent line with a cable tie, you must avoid creating a "trap", because as you fill the tank water may come up the vent line and then get stuck in the trap. Also, you must avoid kinking or crushing the hose. But it might work.

Sometimes RV problems are design flaws. But sometimes they are related to sloppy assembly. My hunch is to chalk up a fresh-tank fill issue to assembly. This is not rocket science. A nearly vertical hose dumps water into a tank with gravity feed, and another nearly vertical hose allows air to escape from the tank as you fill it. A little belly in the fill line isn't the end of the world, but the fact is, neither hose should trap water.

But, an assembler who reaches the end of a roll of hose and has 6" too much hose can save 30 seconds by not cutting it to the proper length. "Close enough...time to go home." Recently, I saw a post from a guy who had a hose that was about 6" too short, and it wouldn't stay on the fitting. Every time he opened his slide, a drain hose came off a Tee fitting. Isn't that just Wonderful??!! Again, another assembler decision to not toss the too-short length of hose and choose to stretch it to fit instead...leaving the owner with a stinking mess.

With a fresh-tank fill issue, either hose could be at fault, but both should be designed for gravity feed in the case of the fill hose and air venting in the case of the vent hose. In both cases, "just enough" hose is CRUCIAL to proper function. Excess hose in either case invites kinks, creates traps, or worse. Someone in this thread mentioned hitting some sort of obstruction in the fill line and needing an extended hose adapter to get past it. There's only one response to that issue. WTF???!! I'm glad he found a work-around, but that's also ridiculous! Why is there any kind of obstruction in the fill line?

I may sound angry. I AM angry. Problems like this cause so many people who just dropped ten of thousands of dollars on their RV so much anguish, and many can be attributed to quality control. And, let's face it, short of buying an Airstream or similar, the FR brands are kind of as good as it gets. I read Trailer Life, and the "please help me" section is filled with pleas from owners who experience axle failures, roof leaks, slides falling out, and more....and they have to come begging for an intervention to even get these things fixed. The typical RV owner is NOT an RV mechanic. And for as many stories as there are about goofy fresh tank fill problems, there are just as many about owners having to take their RVs out of service for 2, 3, or 4 weeks during prime season for warranty service. That's unconscionable.

Cars used to be like this, but then they instituted lemon laws. It wan't long before quality control on cars improved immensely, because car manufacturers got tired of taking back their lemons in big batches.

Again, I could be wrong about the technicalities of fill tank hoses. If so, somebody speak up and I'll eat some humble pie. The rest is opinion based on the number of problems I've had to fix on my own PUP and the endless stream of nonsensical problems people are faced with daily in this forum.

End of rant.
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:07 PM   #28
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Water tank vent

I couldn't actually see if the pipe had a service loop in it. I was told that was a possibility. It seems right as I agree if the vent come straight out of the top of the tank to the outside water should never stay in it. You should have seen my acrobatics putting weather stripping for the slide out on that was laying in the floor when I got my 2018 Mini Lite home this July. When I and the salesman inspected it the slide was out so we would not have seen it.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:21 PM   #29
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I've emptied the fresh water tank. It was full when I picked it up. I want to sanitize it. When I try to add the diluted chlorine mix or just add water, it comes back out. What am I missing. I did not have this problem with my 2300.
I open up all the faucets inside the RV before filling the water tank. Keeps all the air going out inside rather than outside.
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Old 10-02-2017, 07:56 PM   #30
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Makes sense
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Old 10-02-2017, 11:03 PM   #31
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I had the same problems filling my tank and tried the hose adapter shown above but it would still take forever and burp out water. Another forum member recommended this
https://www.amazon.com/Secure-Fill-S.../dp/B001FC7G2M
I have to say itís fantastic, I can turn my hose to full pressure while filling with no burping or babysitting. Itís cut my fill time down by 2/3.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:24 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by rhamilton View Post
I open up all the faucets inside the RV before filling the water tank. Keeps all the air going out inside rather than outside.
Never tried that,,, always just filled tank very slowly !!!
May try opening out door shower faucet time ???
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:51 PM   #33
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Smile Filling the fresh water tank

That is a great suggestion. I'll have to remember that one.
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Old 10-03-2017, 09:08 PM   #34
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I open up all the faucets inside the RV before filling the water tank. Keeps all the air going out inside rather than outside.
Curious. The air gets past the pump?
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:40 AM   #35
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Curious. The air gets past the pump?
GREAT Question ???
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:39 PM   #36
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So our '14 2500TS also has a "valley" in the fill line. I aim to shorten the
line from the outside of the RV. (I would have to be no bigger than a chipmunk to do it from under the bed.) I've never opened up any of the exterior access panels on this motorhome, like at this water fill port.
When filling, I can get the tubing forced down far enough to push pressurized water into the tank, but if I had to pour water into the tank, for whatever reason, I'd be unable to. If anyone has any experience accessing and shortening this ribbed fill line from the outside I'd appreciate your input. Another idea I had is a capped hole in the top of the tank itself, to be able to fill with a hose from inside, but am wary of inviting a leak. Actually, the tank has a fill hole in the top, but it has been sealed off.

Nice workmanship, Forest River!
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:51 PM   #37
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Agree. Our 2800 GTS has no access to the fill port except from the outside. It appears they leave the hose a little long to be able to attach it to the fill port and then just shove it in. The extra hose has to go somewhere! In our case if you look into the hose it goes up and to the left making it difficult to shove the fill hose in. No matter what I have tried it still takes me 45 minutes to get the tank full by regulating the flow rate.
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Old 10-10-2017, 03:57 PM   #38
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I don't see how opening up the faucets would do anything. The water is pulled from the bottom of the tank and the faucets are above the tank.

What am I missing here?
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:09 PM   #39
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Opening inside faucets lets the air escape out of them rather than the air trying to come back out the filler cap.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:48 PM   #40
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Opening inside faucets lets the air escape out of them rather than the air trying to come back out the filler cap.
The air from where? The piping to the faucets gets sourced at the bottom of the water tank and then through the pump.

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