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Old 05-06-2019, 05:48 PM   #1
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Water in backup camera.

The RVS Systems backup camera in my 2019 Forrester 2291SF is partially full of water.

The service center where I could get the work done is a 6 hour drive. Has anybody had experience with this camera. There is a YouTube video but it as for a slightly different camera that the front comes off with screws. This camera appears to be bonded one piece.


Thanks
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:35 AM   #2
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I had the same problem with two RVS cameras, the original and the one replaced by the dealer under warranty. RVS told me they wouldn't cover the 2nd one so I'm looking for a different brand replacement camera.
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Old 05-07-2019, 10:08 PM   #3
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Tadi Brothers say they have one that will adapt to the current wiring. I am on my second RVS. So far it is working, but night vision sure needs improvement.
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:25 AM   #4
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Same issue how did you replace your camera?

Hey I have the same problem and need to replace my camera. When I pull the wire out there is no connector that I can find by the time I run out of slack. Did you have to remove something to gain access to the connector when you replaced yours?

Thanks, Jake
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:35 AM   #5
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RVS wouldn't send me a replacement and told me I needed to go to my useless dealer for the repair. The dealer's tech said he had to remove the inside crown moulding to get to the connector.


The new camera had the same problem within a month or two. RVS wouldn't allow a second replacement.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:59 AM   #6
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RVS modification

I have not had the “water in the camera” failure, but have recently done some work on the RVS camera/multiplexer/monitor system on our 2012 Solera.

The system stopped working- monitor just reported “no signal”. Eventually determined corrosion on the input connector solder joints in the multiplexer was the problem. Alcohol scrub with an old toothbrush fixed. However, wife said she “hated” the quality of the image, and said I should do more...

Experimented with an alternate monitor plugged into the multiplexer’s RCA monitor output - marginal improvement, image still pretty “washed out”. “Bench tested” with an alternate camera - I added an RCA camera input by soldering a female RCA connector to an input terminal on the multiplexer (see attached image showing the multiplexer pinout) (I id’d the ground terminal by ohm meter and counted pins to the video terminal) connecting to the video and ground terminals. This worked and seemed to improve the image significantly.

Camera I used:
https://www.amazon.com/NOAUKA-Waterp...%2C307&sr=8-10

As what I wanted was a “rear view mirror replacement “ and as I don’t tow, I installed a new camera on the license plate mount and routed its cable under the MH - found there is a cable input opening (closed by a wire tie) under the driver’s seat - routed the cable through that and under interior trim to the multiplexer. I left the original camera in place and connected (the multiplexer on our MH has three ports, only one was originally in use). Should I tow some day, I can switch to the original “high mounted” camera.

I also added a third camera on the passenger side of the MH - used the third multiplexer input, similarly converting it for RCA input. The MH has a significant blind spot should I be at an intersection where a road enters from about a 45 degree angle on the passenger side. Have depended on my passenger looking for me in these situations- believe I can now switch to my new “side view” camera should my passenger be asleep.

If I were to have to replace the original camera, I would probably cut the existing cable at the camera, id the video and ground wires (color code?), and install a simple video only standard RCA connector camera.

Of note, with my current set-up, using the original RVS video+audio camera, when in reverse and viewing the “new” camera, the audio works!

FYI - hope some of the information is useful -

Jim
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Old 05-25-2019, 05:45 PM   #7
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I haven’t tackled it yet, I am hoping a few weeks of warm weather will dry it out
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:31 PM   #8
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Never tried it with a backup camera, but a small hole in the bottom of a headlight that fogs up can help. Obviously, out of the field of view, as much as possible. Once not sealed, in my experience, best to let it breathe...
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:39 PM   #9
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Totally agree, as soon as it gets out of warranty I will be drilling a small hole

Mike
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Old 05-26-2019, 03:25 AM   #10
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Corrosion on circuit board

So I took the camera apart and cleaned out the moisture. I found some corrosion on the circuit board that the camera is on, but I cleaned it with some IPA and it seems to be working okay now. I would warn against putting a hole in the camera as it would expose the circuit board to additional moisture. I resealed it with some silicon. Lets see how much longer it lasts. I will probably just order a new camera. I found a RVS one on Amazon for about $100. I just need to find how to access the connector so I can replace it. Thanks
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:58 PM   #11
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Last year I was having issues with my rear RVS camera, picture was only black and white and switching to the sides camera's was an issue. RVS had a sale so I bought one to replace it this spring. Of course when spring arrived it was working fine so I decided to wait to see what happens. Then on our first trip this weekend, the camera started acting up again with the same symptoms. My guess is that it's heat related as it seems to have a problem when it's warm and sunny.

So now that I have to replace it I need to go back and figure out the process. It seems others have pulled down the inside crown molding to access the wiring but I'm wondering if that is the only option. And if you have to pull down the crown molding, what is the best way to do so without damaging it and then how do you replace it?
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:18 PM   #12
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On my 2801QS, I did it all from the outside. The wire from the camera goes through a grommet. I pulled out the grommet and pulled the wire to reach the connection. I believe the new camera came with a new grommet. I was very easy.
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbdRahim View Post
On my 2801QS, I did it all from the outside. The wire from the camera goes through a grommet. I pulled out the grommet and pulled the wire to reach the connection. I believe the new camera came with a new grommet. I was very easy.
Yes, the new camera comes with a new grommet and has a 53" cable lead with a 6 pin connector that plug's into the long extension that runs up to the front of the cab. So you were able to pull out the cable with the connector plugged into the extension through the hole in the back of the RV so that your could connect the new camera connector to the extension, push back through the hole and remount?
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:29 AM   #14
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I know a few years ago someone had to replace the defective camera and tried to pull the cable thru the hole after removing the grommet. They ended up taking it to the dealer who removed the inside rear crown molding and found the connector coiled was up with a tie strap just in about a foot. The cable coming from the multiplexer is 50 feet long and what they do with the few extra feet of cable is different on each MH.
If anyone does remove the crown molding, please take and post a photo. Also, I've also seen posted warning that the crown molding is just thinly wrapped board and may become damaged in the removal process. Not sure if you could order an exact replacement. I would make one of real wood.
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Old 06-07-2019, 10:27 AM   #15
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"....the crown molding is just thinly wrapped board and may become damaged in the removal process."

Sage,

That is my biggest concern. I did a quick look and attempted a few tugs on the molding last year and it seems very tight and more than likely to get damaged in removal unless someone has the right tools and/or secret formula for removing without damage. Even if I can get it off without damage, I probably have no way of re-installing it without some nails, screws or staples showing.

Being an engineer I am continuously frustrated by the way these things are designed and/or installed which creates these kind of situations. I.e. You have to break something to to able to fix it.
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Old 06-08-2019, 09:22 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newRVer View Post
Yes, the new camera comes with a new grommet and has a 53" cable lead with a 6 pin connector that plug's into the long extension that runs up to the front of the cab. So you were able to pull out the cable with the connector plugged into the extension through the hole in the back of the RV so that your could connect the new camera connector to the extension, push back through the hole and remount?


Exactly.
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Old 06-10-2019, 12:03 PM   #17
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To get the molding off a good set of trim removal tools works wonders. I have a set of plastic and metal tools and the flat pry bar is great for removing RV trim. Narrow crown staples are great for putting it back, but not everyone has a stapler like that. I also paint a sleeve of staples on the top to match the color of the trim before I shoot them in. It helps hide them. You can also buy wood putty colored to match the trim.
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:18 PM   #18
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Exactly.
Well I'm hoping that it is just that easy for me as well. Not having to miss with the crown molding inside would be a big plus.
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