Water pump access on sunseeker 2014 2650s

[Kentsb]

I have a leak in my system. The water pump cycles on for a couple of seconds every few minutes. Water is dripping off of the driver side of the rig just behind the wheel. All this started after hooking up to city water at a campground. Carpet beside the bed on the drivers side got wet. That has dried out and has not occurred since switching to using the fresh water tank. The large pass through storage on the back drivers side filled up with water also. That made me think I could access the pump and plumbing by removing the panel that runs the entire length of the pass through. Before I do that which will also require removing the converter I want to make sure that access is not via under the bed stand. Thanks for any insights to how I can access the pump and more importantly the plumbing in general for that area.

[BehindBars]

While people may have some suggestions for you, very few people will probably be familiar with the layout of your particular motorhome model. Perhaps if you posted some photos of your situation you might get more responses.

Have you never accessed the water pump before? Most models, in my experience, have easy access to the water pump without major disassembly.

[Duckogram]

No substitute for direct model experience or in lieu of that, photos. However there are some basics that are found in most models.

Your City Water and FW tank, via the pump, are connected to a single plumbing system. Therefore if your leak occurs on both sources of water then your problem resides before the city check valve and after the pump. Since the pressures are similar, the leak would be pretty much the same.

Your pump should be within a few feet of your FW tank. The tank should be within a few feet of your gravity fill port.

So the question becomes; What is near the leak (above and adjacent both inside and out.) Those are the photos that could provide clues. Also, it the unit level? Water will seek the low point so if you are only kind of level, you could be looking at a traveling stream.

[Kentsb]

Originally Posted by Kentsb

I have a leak in my system. The water pump cycles on for a couple of seconds every few minutes. Water is dripping off of the driver side of the rig just behind the wheel. All this started after hooking up to city water at a campground. Carpet beside the bed on the drivers side got wet. That has dried out and has not occurred since switching to using the fresh water tank. The large pass through storage on the back drivers side filled up with water also. That made me think I could access the pump and plumbing by removing the panel that runs the entire length of the pass through. Before I do that which will also require removing the converter I want to make sure that access is not via under the bed stand. Thanks for any insights to how I can access the pump and more importantly the plumbing in general for that area.

Well I got home and found the access to the area where the leak was. Access on this model is under the bed for FW tank, pump, filter and low water drain. The area on the left side of the bed is where you can remove screws, hidden by the carpeting, to access the plumbing for the fresh water fill and the city water connection. Unfortunately I could not duplicate the problem. There is no leak to be found. Even the water pump no longer cycles on and off. Going camping next week so we shall see if things remain a mystery.

I am thinking for winterizing just blowing out the lines with air and not using anti-freeze as it does not get extremely cold here in Santa Fe in the winter. The average low temp in the winter is 20’.

[dougc905]

There is a sticker in the storage hatch above the sink that lists the test specs for the RV plumbing. It says that my 2650 was pressure tested to 100 lbs pressure. Look for yours to see what pressure they tested to.


Your leak probably occurred while hooked to a very high pressure source that you cannot duplicate with your current sources, hence no subsequent leak. The leak is probably at a PEX connector but may be along the feed line as that uses hose clamps. Unless you want to hook up to a high pressure source again and look at all of the connectors, then you may just want to be careful in the future. Lesson: don't hook up there again!



Be wary of hooking to all water feeds. Turn the feed on first before you screw your hose on. You'll know a really high pressure source when you see it!



BTW, those little inline pressure regulators won't help you as they need flow to work. No flow results in unregulated high pressure. Hence no solution to your problem.


To winterize, I used a jug and a half of antifreeze. There is a valve close to the water pump to switch over to a feed line that is provided for inserting into the jug. It has a cap on the end with an additional rubber plug within that cap. You must remove the plug as well! For the cost and time it takes, adding the antifreeze will provide you with peace of mind. Remember to bypass the heater tank. That panel is located under the kitchen drawers. Four screws and a putty knife to pry the panel out.

[fobagbob]

Originally Posted by dougc905

BTW, those little inline pressure regulators won't help you as they need flow to work. No flow results in unregulated high pressure. Hence no solution to your problem.

I have heard this before so I put a gauge on a tee on the outlet and found that the pressure holds at 45 psi with no flow. Tried it at multiple hookups with various unregulated pressures.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by fobagbob

I have heard this before so I put a gauge on a tee on the outlet and found that the pressure holds at 45 psi with no flow. Tried it at multiple hookups with various unregulated pressures.

fobagbob is correct. The myth that in line rv regulators do not work without flow is false. The method used to regulate the pressure is by inserting a spring and diaphragm assembly into a tube. When the pressure increases the spring compresses and eventually closes the diaphragm thus preventing pressures in excess of what the spring is designed for. It is possible for the diaphragm to seize and allow excessive pressure. That would be a regulator failure not a design flaw.
Easy to test your regulator.
Via use of a simple irrigation gauge, find a water source where the pressure is higher than what your regulator is rated for. Next attach the gauge to your regulator and then attach the regulator to the spigot. Your reading should be in the regulators range, normally 40-50 psi. If it is not, it is broken.

[dougc905]

Good to know… Thanks!

Originally Posted by fobagbob

I have heard this before so I put a gauge on a tee on the outlet and found that the pressure holds at 45 psi with no flow. Tried it at multiple hookups with various unregulated pressures.

[Godzilladriver]

I’m still learning the hard way. I keep heat in the RV and did not add antifreeze at the water pump. I had freeze damage to the small grit filter. It was easy to replace. I should have pulled the grit filter basin to drain it because it is lower than the low point drain can fully drain. The unit is available on Amazon for 10$. Next year I’ll add antifreeze too.