Winterizing bypass valve

[xgzx]

I will soon be winterizing my 2013 2500TS, and have been familiarizing myself with the details needed to do it. I planned on adding the Camco winterizing bypass valve to the water pump, but upon inspection noticed that there is not enough room to plumb it into the pump the way it is now mounted. Here is my idea. Place a shutoff valve in line from the fresh water tank under the bed that runs to the pump, then drawing antifreeze up into the pump from the low point drain, which goes to the intake side of the pump. I could just add a clear tube extension to the end of the low point drain and into the antifreeze bottle. Has anyone tried this, or see any reason it won't work or may cause a problem?

[RvBill3]

Here is how I did it (before and after). I shortened the water line and put the antifreeze valve in. Just add a plastic tube to suck antifreeze from the jug.

[xgzx]

Here is what the factory gave me to work with. I don't think I have the room to do your mod. The white hose is too short already, and there is a T at the top into the fresh water blue line that has no room below it for the brass valve. Sorry the black shroud is in the way, but you can just make out the cold water line and T at the top of the pic and see that there is no room for the brass valve. It's pretty tight in there!

[EXTremist]

Can you put the intake valve (3-way) between the pump itself and the right-angle at the bottom? looks like you have a little room to the left there. I imagine there is some flex in the run down to that joint.

[garbonz]

My Vcross has all this built into one valve with a hose to put in the antifreeze jug. It looks like a plumber's nightmare but it works.

[bclemens]

I've asked for the winterizing tube to be built in. I know they're working on it.

[xgzx]

Originally Posted by EXTremist

Can you put the intake valve (3-way) between the pump itself and the right-angle at the bottom? looks like you have a little room to the left there. I imagine there is some flex in the run down to that joint.

I am going to try your suggestion. Problem is, right behind the bundle of wires, not visible in the photo, is a large diameter run of grey conduit that is pretty inflexible and is sealed in at the bottom with the foam ( I tried to move it, the foam started making cracking sounds, don't want to do that!). The conduit is about an inch left of the elbow coming out of the intake side of the pump. I'm going to try to shoehorn in the brass valve; if it works, great, if not, plan B. I will update with photos when finished.

[VinceU]

[QUOTE="xgzx"]

I am going to try your suggestion. Problem is, right behind the bundle of wires, not visible in the photo, is a large diameter run of grey conduit that is pretty inflexible and is sealed in at the bottom with the foam ( I tried to move it, the foam started making cracking sounds, don't want to do

[VinceU]

Suggest Plan B, plastic pump and fittings may break.....

[xgzx]

So I received my winterizing kit, and upon inspection of the valve, I have decided it will not fit in line right next to/off of the pump. I will most likely splice into the water line from the fresh water tank under the bed. That being said, I can't help but notice how small the passage thru the brass valve is! The water volume and pressure from the pump is already not the greatest, has anyone noticed that the brass valve reduces the volume or pressure even more? Here is the valve kit I bought:

[tlf65]

I bought one of the Camco bypass kits before I had a look at the water pump on my 2300. Instead of using the kit I just park the unit so it is tilted to the right side and pour two gallons of antifreeze in the tank which enough to fill all of the lines.