TR: SW Colorado (San Juans and Mesa Verde NP) 9/1-7/2017

[FirstTracks]

(Part 1)

DW, the dogs and I just returned tonight from a week boondocking and exploring the San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado, with an extra stop at Mesa Verde National Park. They haven't nicknamed the San Juans the "American Alps" without reason, and while I'm not a big National Park guy as I prefer wilderness over the often sanitized National Park experience, Mesa Verde gives you a once in a lifetime opportunity to view ruins of Anasazi cliff dwellings up close and personal.

We left after work on Friday, Sept. 1, got caught in horrific rush hour traffic along the Wasatch Front, and lost a lot of time as a result. It was thus that we didn't pull into our campsite along Klondike Bluffs Road just north of Moab, Utah until 10 p.m. It was just a transit stop, but Klondike Bluffs suited our needs perfectly -- it was just off US-191, it was easy to locate a spot in the dark, and we didn't see anyone except for the patrons of Skydive Moab dropping into the nearby airport.


Our camp on Klondike Bluffs Road.

We broke camp early the next morning and headed for Telluride.


Dropping into the Paradox Valley en route to Telluride.


Telluride, Colorado


Starting up Last Dollar Road at Telluride, long before it turns to dirt.

I had intended to camp on Last Dollar Road, but the road looked tight past the overlook at which several others were already camped. I chatted with one of the campers and he convinced me to not proceed further with my TT in tow, so we headed south to my "Plan B" -- Trout Lake.

The North Trout Lake Road, south of Ophir, becomes Forest Service land legal for dispersed camping just beyond the east end of the lake. About a half mile east of the lake the road makes a sharp bend across the creek next to the historic Trout Lake Trestle from the days when this road was a railroad bed, and heads southwest to Lizard Head Pass. Right next to the trestle we found what would be our own little nirvana for the next two days beneath the stunningly beautiful Mount San Miguel.


Camped at the end of the Trout Lake Trestle


The evening sun lights up Mt. San Miguel, as seen from my camp patio.


Trout Lake


Our camp on North Trout Lake Road.

The following morning DW, the dogs and I drove to Mountain Village and loaded the free gondola that connects Mountain Village with Telluride, where we spent the afternoon browsing the streets, letting the dogs swim in the San Miguel River, and grabbing an excellent pizza. The town was absolutely bustling thanks to the holiday weekend and the Telluride Film Festival.




The dogs were at first a bit freaked loading a moving gondola cabin, but they were pros by the end of the day.

[FirstTracks]

(Part 2)


Downtown Telluride


How about this RV?

On the morning of our fourth day, Labor Day Monday, we crossed over to US-550 at Ridgeway, Colo., to take on the infamous Million Dollar Highway through Ouray to Silverton. Reading forum reports on this road left me with a bit of trepidation, but I can now say that if you're used to mountain driving, US-550 isn't considerably worse than any other western mountain road. You just exercise common sense, drive with attention and engine braking, and it's easily negotiated. We stopped near the top of Red Mountain Pass to take in the mine ruins and have a bite to eat from the trailer kitchen.


Ouray, Colorado


Mine ruins on Red Mountain Pass.


Abandoned mine buildings on Red Mountain Pass.

At the bottom of Red Mountain Pass, at its south end three miles from Silverton we turned right onto County Road 5 and quickly arrived at the Anvil and Sultan Camping Areas established by the USFS on either side of Mineral Creek. These are free dispersed camping areas without marked sites. There was a large Class A and a pair of trailers already at Anvil, but only a single tent was pitched at Sultan and it looked to be closed up for a number of days with no one in sight. I dropped the trailer right next to the creek at Sultan. There we would be serenaded by the sound of the rushing water for two nights -- we only planned one night in Silverton, but this was just too perfect. Another Class A would arrive at Sultan about 100 feet away on our second night, as would a camper van across the creek at Anvil, but that was it.


Our spot at Sultan Camping Area.

In between those two nights we did the tourist thing in Silverton, which is a very different town than Telluride. The latter, a ski resort town popular with the rich and famous, just oozes wealth from its pores. Although Telluride's downtown core has been lovingly preserved, the tarmac at its tiny airport is dotted with numerous large private Gulfstreams and Lears, and the forested slopes around town are speckled with luxury condos that are probably occupied two weeks per year, in between colossal high-rise hotels. By contrast, Silverton's outskirts are occupied by single-wides on gravel lots. Nevertheless, Silverton's entire downtown core is a designated National Historic District that has received no less love in its restoration than has Telluride.


Downtown Silverton

As you might guess from its name, Silverton owes its existence to a mining heyday that once brought the town fame and glory. Fun fact: Silverton was the second city in the U.S. to get 110-volt A/C service. Instead of luxury hotels and condos, the mountains surrounding Silverton are absolutely littered with mining ruins everywhere you look. It's a mining history buff's Mecca.

As she's very claustrophobic, DW stayed at the RV while I drove 25 minutes to be a tourist at the Old Hundred Gold Mine Tour. Arriving at around 10:30 a.m., I had to wait for the 11 a.m. tour. About 15 people disembarked the mine train at the end of their 10 a.m. tour, but when the clock struck 11 I was the only customer standing there. I got my own private tour!

Sure, it's been adapted for tourists and is sort of like a mining museum set up one-third of a mile into a mountain, but it was a real, working mine at one time and my guide was a retired miner, so it's the real deal. It's worthy of $18.95 and an hour of your time in Silverton.


The entrance to the Old Hundred Mine.


While lights have been added to the tour area for tourist comfort, the 1/3-mile mine train to access the tour area is typically pitch black.


The contraption that looks like an elevator in the lower tunnel accesses another draft 700 feet higher in the mountain. The upper tunnel is the alternative escape route.

[FirstTracks]

(Part 3)


If you think your black tank is nasty...

For the afternoon I went back to retrieve DW and we took a 4x4 adventure to the ghost town of Animas Forks, el. 11,200'. Virtually any high-clearance 4x4 can get there without difficulty.


Climbing past other mine ruins en route to Animas Forks.


Animas Forks


Animas Forks


Animas Forks


Animas Forks

On our way back to the trailer, the hardcore skier in me had to detour to see Silverton Mountain, an experts-only haven where a single chairlift carries you to relentless steeps that you're required to ski with a guide.


Move over Vail, that's the entire "base village" at Silverton Mountain.

After one more night beside the bubbling Mineral Creek, we bid farewell to Silverton on Wednesday morning and headed south towards Durango.


So long, Silverton. We'll meet again.

My plan had been to find a boondocking spot along Hermosa Park Road near Durango Mountain Resort, and although that plan was already cut in half by spending an extra night in Silverton, we opted to further revise the Hermosa Park plan from two nights all the way down to zero and instead continue on to Mesa Verde National Park where we made camp on a little slice of BLM land less than two miles from the park entrance. Now I'm not one to second guess someone else's choices, but for the life of me I can't understand why people would insist upon paying for a spot in the crowded National Park campground (without even hookups at most sites) when this was far prettier, absolutely free, I couldn't see or hear any neighbors, and I had to comply with virtually no rules.


DW seems happy with our Mesa Verde campsite choice.


Looking toward Mesa Verde from camp.

[FirstTracks]

(Part 4)


OK, I couldn't have both level and a fully extended awning, but I'll still take it.

After dropping the trailer at camp we took a driving tour of Mesa Verde together. DW didn't sleep well that night, so I went back alone in the morning for the walking (and climbing) tour of the Balcony House ruins. Really, it's a shame to visit this park and not get tickets for one of the tours; otherwise, you're just looking at any of the numerous Anasazi cliff dwellings from a distance.


Mesa Verde National Park


Looking north from Mesa Verde.


To get to Balcony House you first downclimb some metal stairs from the mesa top, then you ascend this 30-foot ladder.


Balcony House


Balcony House


Leaving Balcony House is no less intimidating.

We broke camp at around noon after the tour, and headed back across the state line into Utah. We had planned to camp one more night about halfway between Monticello and Moab to break up the return drive, but with hot temperatures and a blazing sun we scratched those plans and made a run for Salt Lake, arriving home a day ahead of schedule. No matter, we had a wonderful week camping our way around beautiful southwestern Colorado!

[rsaunders]

The photos are excellent, thanks for sharing.

[HangDiver]

The fly fishing up around trout lake and alta lakes is pretty amazing. We fly our hang gliders off Gold Hill, Telluride every fall - fantastic flying site. I really enjoyed your photos.

Rich J.

[wz3mo]

Looks like you had a outstanding trip, thanks for sharing your adventure!

[mwtracht]

Outstanding TR! Been to Moab, Bluff and MV, your report makes me want to get down there again. Not familiar with Colorado much, very cool that you were able to find so many good boondocking sites.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by mwtracht

Outstanding TR! Been to Moab, Bluff and MV, your report makes me want to get down there again. Not familiar with Colorado much, very cool that you were able to find so many good boondocking sites.

Honestly, I owe much of it to Campendium.com, an online campsite directory of reviews that I've been contributing to a lot lately (my photo from Ketchum, ID in July is their home page photo this month). That, and Forest Service MVUMs combined with Google Earth. That latter combo helped me find our North Trout Lake site and add it to Campendium.

Thanks for everyone's kind comments!

[Maman325]

You are officially my dispersed camping heroes! Your Trout Lake report was featured in an email I got from Campendium earlier this week - fantastic. And we are headed to that very Klondike Bluffs area of Moab early next month - so glad to see a little taste of where we'll be! Thanks for another great trip report. :-)

[CedarCreekWoody]

Great report and beautiful photos! Our paths likely crossed as we just got back from Mesa Verde and Silverton. We also spent a few days in Moab to tour Arches and Canyonlands. Much hotter in Moab!

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by Maman325

You are officially my dispersed camping heroes! Your Trout Lake report was featured in an email I got from Campendium earlier this week - fantastic. And we are headed to that very Klondike Bluffs area of Moab early next month - so glad to see a little taste of where we'll be! Thanks for another great trip report. :-)

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

Great report and beautiful photos! Our paths likely crossed as we just got back from Mesa Verde and Silverton. We also spent a few days in Moab to tour Arches and Canyonlands. Much hotter in Moab!

Appreciate it!

[mwtracht]

Thanks for the tip on your resources. You certainly did your home work and it paid off. I prefer boondocking when ever possible.

[FirstTracks]

Originally Posted by mwtracht

You certainly did your home work and it paid off.

Just like in school when I did my homework at the last minute, I started planning this trip 4 days before we left.

[elchilero53]

Thanks for that fantastic report, First Tracks! And my compliments on the beautiful photography. It brought back many wonderful memories of our travels through those same areas. Looks like y'all had a wonderful time!

[Rivnut]

Excellent report. Been there dragging a DW not a boon docker. Gonna leave her home and go alone once.

[ependydad]

Awesome trip report! But, you left out the worst detail of the Balcony House tour and that was crawling into the tunnel near the end.

I'd love to boondock more, but I'm terrified of taking my big rig somewhere and getting stuck.

[tragusa3]

Thanks so much! Enjoyed the report!

[FirstTracks]

Thanks for your comments elchilero53, Rivnut, tragusa3 & ependydad!

Originally Posted by ependydad

I'd love to boondock more, but I'm terrified of taking my big rig somewhere and getting stuck.

I think that you'll find Campendium very helpful with this. One thing that their reviewers focus on is accessibility, so for sites already listed on Campendium the reviewers have done that homework for you. Pick an area to camp in, look at the green pins that they place on Google Maps which denote campsites on public land, like National Parks, National Forests, BLM, State Parks and County Parks, whether established campgrounds or boondocking sites. Then look at the reviews. Some may even have the "small RVs only" symbol, but with few exceptions reviewers will explain how easy or how difficult it is to access the site with a big rig. That should give you some peace of mind.

If you want a better look, click on the GPS coordinates in the Campendium review and that will open the site in Google Maps. Now, switch Google Maps to satellite view and zoom in and pan around for a preview of both the site and the road that accesses it. Maybe switch to "terrain" view, too, to see it as a topographic map with contour lines to understand the lay of the land. These are all tools to help you.

Worst case scenario, when in doubt drop your trailer and take your TV in first to have a look. Admittedly I talk a good game as there are times that I should have done that but didn't, but it's always in the back of my mind. Then again, my TT is only 26' overall.

When looking for a site not already listed in Campendium (like our find on North Trout Lake Road), that's where things like National Forest Motor Vehicle Use Maps (MVUMs) come in handy, in combination with Google Maps satellite view. Those maps show Forest Service roads along which boondocking is legal. If you see a road that piques your interest, you can then scan Google satellite images for boondocking sites that have already been used by other campers. Sometimes you even see an RV parked in the satellite photo! If that's the case, you can make a judgment call on how large that RV is, and understand that if they got in there, you can too.

I find the UI of the few sites that focus almost exclusively on boondocking like Freecampsites.net to be very difficult on the eyes and somewhat illogical to navigate. They also lack things like RV parks, should I want to see those too. The folks behind Campendium are several full-timers who saw an opportunity missing with most online site directories that focus exclusively on RV parks and campgrounds. Started four years ago, launched two years ago and growing rapidly, Campendium mixes RV parks and campgrounds with boondocking sites (and dump stations, too), featuring what I've found to be legitimate reviews and helpful user photos. For example (and speaking of dump stations), when I stopped in Durango to use an unmarked and well-hidden dump station at a gas station west of town, an earlier reviewer not only provided instructions as to which way to enter the station and proceed through the property to get lined up correctly, but even uploaded a Google satellite photo of the gas station with the location of the unmarked dump station highlighted on the photo. At this busy gas station, that turned what could've been a real cluster into a vastly simplified experience.

It's easy to use Campendium from the road, too. When accessing Campendium from a mobile device, the site automatically displays a mobile-friendly version. The site owners are about to release an app for iOS devices, and one of them promises me that an Android version will be developed thereafter.

Now, while it may sound like I'm promoting Campendium (and I am), realize that I have no association with the site other than that I'm a regular user. I appreciate the site's concept to the point where I've donated to the site, and I want to see them succeed for the benefit of all of us.

[Maman325]

I've found Campendium really useful as well - so your post reminds me that it's only as useful as the contributions made to it - so, starting today, I will be making a point to contribute reviews to the site as well!