2003 georgetown class a - cannot figure this out

[milkpitcher]

Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..

[NO3putt]

The switch is at times called a "salesman switch" used to shut off the batteries. When in the store position is disconnects the batteries. When using the motorhome should be in the use position.

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by milkpitcher

Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..

The Use/store button should be a disconnect of your house batteries. Your chassis battery (starting), should be separate from your house batteries and shouldn't have a drain on it unless the key is on. Have you had your chassis battery checked to make sure it is good?

[Iggy]

First off we are here to help.
Here is a picture of my switches in my 2012.
If you took a picture of your would be helpful as things changed since your 2003 model year.


Does your look like this with labels?

[reddiver]

I have a 2003 Georgetown 325S. The switches on mine are: Single switch in its own mount is for the house batteries. Push down to store. Up to engage the batteries. There should be a red light illuminated when you push the switch up. The other switches are for, from right to left probably, the steps, the floor lights and the outside night lite. Two batteries are your house batteries. I have my coach battery in the same place under the steps. It is separate from your house batteries but while running the coach will charge all batteries. The generator will do the same. I hope this helps.

[coupevillefish]

We have a 2004 which is the same as reddiver except that from the door we have outside light, floor light, step switch, then a larger panel with the battery disconnect.

We have two things that are wired direct and do not go through the disconnect - the propane detector/switch and the steps.

But, as someone said, it sounds like the OP's problem is with the engine battery and is not directly impacted by the house batteries.

[camaraderie]

There can be continuous parasitic loads on the engine battery such as the radio/CD player which will drain the battery eventually leaving you unable to start the engine.
Likewise there are continuous parasitic draind on you HOUSE batteries regardless of what position your salesman switch is in (propaned detector is one).
The only way to remove all drains is to remove the negative cable from each side of your batteries...or get a switch at walmart that lets you do the same thing.

[Iggy]

Parasitic load LOL
I turn my light stich off and it stop the flow of electricity.
You hit the coach battery switch to store/off and it disconnects any load from those batteries. Who here cares or knows what parasitic leakage is? If you have highly corroded terminals and never cleaned your batteries you will have leakage to ground/frame.

Turn the switch on when you drive and off when you store your rig.
Iggy

Originally Posted by camaraderie

There can be continuous parasitic loads on the engine battery such as the radio/CD player which will drain the battery eventually leaving you unable to start the engine.
Likewise there are continuous parasitic draind on you HOUSE batteries regardless of what position your salesman switch is in (propaned detector is one).
The only way to remove all drains is to remove the negative cable from each side of your batteries...or get a switch at walmart that lets you do the same thing.

[glenn56h]

05 gtwn 375ts gave up on their elect systems just put in a knife switch


when I store the MH I pull knife also had the house bats wired so gen charges them when driveing

[camaraderie]

Iggy....try a DC clamp amp meter on your battery positive cable after you've turned the salesman switch off. You may be surprised when you don't read ZERO.
It's not gonna go dead in a few nights...but it will go dead or in damage territory between uses if you camp infrequently. If you have a 100 amp hour house battery...a 1/10th amp load will lose 2.4amphours a day....30 days and your battery is 3/4 discharged....even if 100% charged when you put it to bed...40 days is dead flat.

Ditto engine battery with the difference being that typically you NEED at least a 50% charge to kick the starter over...more in cold weather as we've all experienced.
$5 at walmart is cheap insurance.

[pmsherman]

If only a simple disconnect switch would work for my 2011 Georgetown. My two house batteries have small wires attached to both grounds and both positive posts. These small wires provide power to the parasitic loads that happily drain the batteries when they're supposedly disconnected.

The simplest solution is to follow Onan's recommendation and run the generator for a while every month to prevent carburetor varnishing. This also recharges the house and chassis batteries.

Phil

[glenn56h]

05 gtwn 375 ts had that RATS NEST mech got knife switch wired ALL to battery side when knife is up ALL is off DID this because cant get wire diagrams anywhere

[milkpitcher]

part of the problem is that my 3 switches have no labels whatsoever. I did take a pic, but when i try to upload it asks me for the "url" where the pic resides - i have no url, it is just a .jpg on my computer so i don't know how to upload the pic

the radio was broken when we purchased. it has no front panel. but the secondary panel continues to have a light flash. i am wondering if the radio is somehow "on" and that is draining our battery. i am wondering if i just should just force the black secondary panel off and clip wires to the radio to see if that might be the problem.

[ScottBrownstein]

Your problem relates to the chassis battery and not the house batteries. On my Georgetown there is no way to disconnect the chassis battery as the switch you are referring to only disconnects the house batteries. I have read some good comments here...like how old is your chassis battery, what to the battery lugs look like, etc. It is possible that your radio is in the "road mode" which means it is powered by the chassis battery as well, but that load shouldn't be enough to discharge a good battery in a few days.

In the past I have had these problems with an old battery and with corroded ground connections to the chassis and on the battery itself. Best to confirm that all is well there before going further.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by milkpitcher

part of the problem is that my 3 switches have no labels whatsoever. I did take a pic, but when i try to upload it asks me for the "url" where the pic resides - i have no url, it is just a .jpg on my computer so i don't know how to upload the pic

the radio was broken when we purchased. it has no front panel. but the secondary panel continues to have a light flash. i am wondering if the radio is somehow "on" and that is draining our battery. i am wondering if i just should just force the black secondary panel off and clip wires to the radio to see if that might be the problem.

If you had a few pictures of what you are talking about would help.

Your 2003 may be a lot different than the more recent Georgetowns

[sherman12]

I agree with all who stated that you can easily end your dead chassis (engine) battery by putting a "knife" action battery dis-connect switch on the negative battery terminal. Sure you have to open the hood or stairs (where ever your battery is located) if the rig is going to sit for more than a couple of days. But, the battery will be juiced when you go to start it up next time. This was the solution to my start battery always being dead on my previous rig.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by milkpitcher

Georgetown 303W - 2003

I have yet to figure out the buttons right as you come into the door!

and i don't know what it means to "use/store" battery.

But, I have a feeling that our misuse of these buttons is what makes it that our RV never starts without a jump?

is there any kind of diagram or simple explanation for these - it controls the steps, etc..

No one has asked so I will.
Have you had the battery in the engine load tested?
It just may be an old weak battery that needs replacing.
That way you will find out quickly if its the battery or you have a compartment light left on underneath.

[RVnut]

Originally Posted by Iggy

No one has asked so I will.
Have you had the battery in the engine load tested?
It just may be an old weak battery that needs replacing.
That way you will find out quickly if its the battery or you have a compartment light left on underneath.

I agree.. Load test battery after a good charge and if it checks ok then loosen the negative cable and lift it off slowly and see if you get serious sparks.. If so then something is causing a draw on the battery like headlights or something plugged into the cig lighter.. The coach itself is on the other batteries and will not cause the problem you are having..

[Jim G]

Good advice. I was surprised when I found that even with the relay switch set to disconnect, there is still a parasitic drag on the batteries. I installed a switch to cut out the propane relay, but there is still a drain. I also installed a disconnect like in the picture.

[Iggy]

Originally Posted by Jim G

Good advice. I was surprised when I found that even with the relay switch set to disconnect, there is still a parasitic drag on the batteries. I installed a switch to cut out the propane relay, but there is still a drain. I also installed a disconnect like in the picture.

With the coach batteries off with the main switch should disconnect these batteries. The only things that are attached to the batteries themselves is the awning and step fuses.
I have my rig in a storage location for months and my house batteries disconnected drain slowly. I just checked mine yesterday and they were down to 10.5 volts after being left for 3 1/2 months. I started my engine for about 5 minutes and that took the batteries back up to about 13 volts.

You can also pull the fuses attached to your batteries to se if something is still on somewhere.