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Old 08-05-2020, 07:53 PM   #1
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2011 Georgetown 378 Waste Assembly

So we've owned this RV for a year now & I've always had a problem with waste water leaking around the valves. I've already tried to replace O rings but nothing has helped. Tired of fighting with it so I'm just gunna replace the whole assembly. So that's my new problem. My current valves are angled but can't seem to find that version. The ones I've found say they "rotate" but is that just by removing bolts & turning them a 1/4 of a turn? Also what's the difference with the "spigot" or non "spigot" versions? I guess what I really need to know is what do I need to buy & is there any tricks to replacing it.

Thanks
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:35 PM   #2
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UYAWNT2

What I see is two valve not evenly tightened and not flat against the sliding rubber gate.

See my pictures where I point to .
Next time if you replace then make sure you evenly tighten and not to over tighten and cause them to warp and not lay flat like they should be.

The other possible cause of this may be the rubber gasket is not in the groove.
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:42 PM   #3
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So not sure which one to buy.... https://www.valterra.com/product-cat...ve-assemblies/
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Old 08-06-2020, 05:30 PM   #4
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To answer your question you must look at how you plan to remove the old one.

1. The outlet to your extenstion is a no braainer and you need it with the bayonet tabs to attach the extention if you want.

2. Now the actual differences to the one you need is if you plan on going and cutting back beyond a coupling and start with a new coupling and pipe going into the new valves OR

3. You want to buy a setup the will slip into the old pipe inside or outside of it. That's the difference.
Hard for me to explain in writing.

Anyway the swivel valve type is what you want for sure.

I had to redo mine and started fresh and cut out both valves beyond the couplings. This was a but more expensive but in the long run easier to reinstall and measure before glueing things together.
By doing it this way you can easily center the outlet drain to the bottom.

FR stopped doing it this way a few years back.
Just to give you some idea.

See my picture
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Old 08-07-2020, 03:15 PM   #5
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Well I guess I found my answer on eTrailer. Here's their answer for the difference of a Spigot or Hub....

The differences between the Valterra # T80, # T80C, and # T80A simply has to do with the types of connections that they have. They vary between Hub (female) and Spigot (male) ends to suit your needs. The ends that change are on the side. The top of each part number has a bayonet cap that fits over a 3" lug fitting for your sewer hose.

Iggy..... if I cut the old one out it doesn't look like I have much to attach & glue to the new waste assembly. Would it be easier to use a rubber coupling to attach them??
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Old 08-07-2020, 04:54 PM   #6
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Etrailer is correct. It's all depends on the entry pipes.
If you can go over one or inside one. The one that slips inside the existing pipe looks like it may work for you.
I would not suggest the rubber coupling.

The only other answer is to replace the 2 gate valves in the existing system piping.
Yes they can be replaces but the big thing is to insure the rubber gaskets around the gate are not damaged or out of place.
And the bolts need to be snug and not over tightened.
If you take it slow I'm sure you can do it.
If not you have to take it to someone who can it for you.
Sorry that's all I can suggest from way over here.

I will be in Gallup NM tomorrow afternoon and will be camping for 1 night before heading north to Colorado.
I will be in USA RV Park in my Georgetown.
How close are you?

Never mind I just looked and you are 140 miles away from Gallup. Oh well. Next time.
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Old 08-07-2020, 05:05 PM   #7
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You’ve got the best helper on the site when it comes to helping on Georgetowns........and a 378 to boot.

His large box with wheels is a 378.

Iggy has photos that Forest River doesn’t even have.
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Old 08-07-2020, 05:27 PM   #8
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Leaky valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by UYAWNT2 View Post
So we've owned this RV for a year now & I've always had a problem with waste water leaking around the valves. I've already tried to replace O rings but nothing has helped. Tired of fighting with it so I'm just gunna replace the whole assembly. So that's my new problem. My current valves are angled but can't seem to find that version. The ones I've found say they "rotate" but is that just by removing bolts & turning them a 1/4 of a turn? Also what's the difference with the "spigot" or non "spigot" versions? I guess what I really need to know is what do I need to buy & is there any tricks to replacing it.

Thanks
I would still try to use the original valves. Disassemble, clean sealing rubber with a tooth brush and soap and water, assemble back and hand tighten all nuts. Tighten each nut one or 2 turns at a time. Working at opposites of each other. In an x pattern. Tighten until snug but not to much. You have to have a little gap between the plastic and valve.
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Old 08-07-2020, 05:53 PM   #9
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Leaky valve

Quote:
Originally Posted by UYAWNT2 View Post
So we've owned this RV for a year now & I've always had a problem with waste water leaking around the valves. I've already tried to replace O rings but nothing has helped. Tired of fighting with it so I'm just gunna replace the whole assembly. So that's my new problem. My current valves are angled but can't seem to find that version. The ones I've found say they "rotate" but is that just by removing bolts & turning them a 1/4 of a turn? Also what's the difference with the "spigot" or non "spigot" versions? I guess what I really need to know is what do I need to buy & is there any tricks to replacing it.

Thanks
I would still try to use the original valves. Disassemble, clean sealing rubber with a tooth brush and soap and water, assemble back and hand tighten all nuts. Tighten each nut one or 2 turns at a time. Working at opposites of each other. In an x pattern. Tighten until snug but not to much. You have to have a little gap between the plastic and valve.
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Old 08-07-2020, 06:24 PM   #10
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Clean with toothbrush....

Be sure to ise the DWs toothbrush, not yours.....
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Old 08-07-2020, 08:35 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
You’ve got the best helper on the site when it comes to helping on Georgetowns........and a 378 to boot.

His large box with wheels is a 378.

Iggy has photos that Forest River doesn’t even have.
Ken you have a big driveway at home?
Just curious. I may need a cool place to stay next summer if you open the borders.
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Old 08-08-2020, 08:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UYAWNT2 View Post
So we've owned this RV for a year now & I've always had a problem with waste water leaking around the valves. I've already tried to replace O rings but nothing has helped. Tired of fighting with it so I'm just gunna replace the whole assembly. So that's my new problem. My current valves are angled but can't seem to find that version. The ones I've found say they "rotate" but is that just by removing bolts & turning them a 1/4 of a turn? Also what's the difference with the "spigot" or non "spigot" versions? I guess what I really need to know is what do I need to buy & is there any tricks to replacing it.



Thanks


I 've got a u tube video of how to replace a Lasalle Bristol waste water valve ( those are the one's on my 378. If I was more computer literate I could send you the link, however it's called
E-Trailer/ Lasalle Bristol RV Black Water Waste Valve Body Review and Installation . It's post date is Nov 27, 2019 and has a run time of 6 minutes.
Has a pretty good dyi you may want to refer to
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Old 08-08-2020, 08:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomore9-5 View Post
I 've got a u tube video of how to replace a Lasalle Bristol waste water valve ( those are the one's on my 378. If I was more computer literate I could send you the link, however it's called
E-Trailer/ Lasalle Bristol RV Black Water Waste Valve Body Review and Installation . It's post date is Nov 27, 2019 and has a run time of 6 minutes.
Has a pretty good dyi you may want to refer to
This one?

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-b...-34439240.aspx

Bruce
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Old 08-08-2020, 08:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Ken you have a big driveway at home?
Just curious. I may need a cool place to stay next summer if you open the borders.
Main driveway is 300’. We had 5 RV friends here on one occasion before COVID. Latest word from news sources here......both Canada and the U.S. have mutually agreed to keep border closed both directions to non-essential travel until August 21. They’ve mutually extended the date a few times now. I suspect it will remain closed for all of 2020 until numbers drop significantly.

When they do......your spot here is waiting.
50amp, 30amp, or 15amp with waterfront view.

BTW.....we had 18 days in a July with daytime temps over 86F......without the humidity.
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Old 08-08-2020, 05:07 PM   #15
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yes
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Old 08-28-2020, 10:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandog View Post
I would still try to use the original valves. Disassemble, clean sealing rubber with a tooth brush and soap and water, assemble back and hand tighten all nuts. Tighten each nut one or 2 turns at a time. Working at opposites of each other. In an x pattern. Tighten until snug but not to much. You have to have a little gap between the plastic and valve.
OK replaced the seals & reinstalled but still leaks. FRUSTRATING!!! Wonder if I should add some silicone!?!?!?
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Old 08-29-2020, 10:01 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by UYAWNT2 View Post
OK replaced the seals & reinstalled but still leaks. FRUSTRATING!!! Wonder if I should add some silicone!?!?!?
Something not right.
I bet the warped ends are still bowed or you are not able to push the handle/rod all the way in so it is flush with main body.
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Old 08-31-2020, 06:23 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
To answer your question you must look at how you plan to remove the old one.

1. The outlet to your extenstion is a no braainer and you need it with the bayonet tabs to attach the extention if you want.

2. Now the actual differences to the one you need is if you plan on going and cutting back beyond a coupling and start with a new coupling and pipe going into the new valves OR

3. You want to buy a setup the will slip into the old pipe inside or outside of it. That's the difference.
Hard for me to explain in writing.

Anyway the swivel valve type is what you want for sure.

I had to redo mine and started fresh and cut out both valves beyond the couplings. This was a but more expensive but in the long run easier to reinstall and measure before glueing things together.
By doing it this way you can easily center the outlet drain to the bottom.

FR stopped doing it this way a few years back.
Just to give you some idea.

See my picture
Iggy I sent you a PM.
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Old 09-10-2020, 10:34 PM   #19
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So question..... the pipe that goes up inside the black tank has a hose clamp on it. Is it also glued? It has a lot of rubber coating on the outside of the clamp so not sure if I should try to remove it or not. Just wondering if I can pull it out & just replace all the plumbing. ?????
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Old 09-10-2020, 11:14 PM   #20
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So question..... the pipe that goes up inside the black tank has a hose clamp on it. Is it also glued? It has a lot of rubber coating on the outside of the clamp so not sure if I should try to remove it or not. Just wondering if I can pull it out & just replace all the plumbing. ?????
The silver with holes in ti?
No its not as hose clamp but just a support strap.

The other thing that's black is a heated pad part of the Artic Pak.
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