2014 Georgetown Sidewall Separated

[Chieftain]

Our 2014 Gtown 328TS has had a sidewall separation near the driver seat.
The rough roads of AZ and NM took their toll.
Heard popping and cracking then saw the wall near the driver left moving slightly while driving.
The Forums indicated this is a common problem.
The Fix:
I took a cutoff wheel and sliced the moulding down the middle and pulled it off.
Removed the screws for the moulding channel and pulled the strip.
Under there are the 5 self tapping factory installed flat head screws holding the wall between the left slide and front cap. They only went half way through the square frame tubing!
Three of the screw heads turned freely and two fell out, the rearmost two were ok. I was able to determine the wall had not moved vertically as I was able to pull the factory screws out and the holes in the wall still aligned with the square tubing of the rv frame. I can access the square tubing under the rig, not needing to access from inside the coach
I drilled 1/4” holes between each of the factory screws with an 8” long bit all the way thru the square tubing one at a time after looking at where the drill would exit the tubing.
I had already bought 1/4”x5”-20 stainless flat head grade 8 bolts from BoltDepot.com.
Countersink the holes so the molding channel will cover the screw heads
I inserted the bolt all the way through and used red thread lock, flat washer, lock washer and 1/4” nuts to pull the wall and tubing back together.
That’s it.
Waiting for molding to finish the job and test drive.

Notes:
I tried using lock nuts but they stopped on the threads and I couldn’t tighten them, one sheared the bolt. I had to use the cutoff wheel and remove the heads then pushed the bolt thru and pulled them out from the square tubing underneath the coach
I didn’t know how long of bolt to buy and got 5”. Looks like 4” might work as well.
I cut the left side front molding off as it was blocked from sliding out of the channel by the left slide and front cap molding, might try removing the front cap molding when I do the right side.
I bought stainless Machine screws, Phillips flat head, Stainless steel 18-8, 1/4"-20 x 5" from Boltdepot.com
Drill bits from Copper State Supply
Replacement molding from Lazy Days RV Las Vegas.
Since the new bolts are phillips flat head find a screwdriver bit that fits snug in the head so it wont spin or tear up the slots.

[wrapperman]

We have a 2013 378XL Georgetown.
I had the same issue about a year and a half ago. I used 5/16" SS 4" long self tapping screws. I drilled a pilot hole first. Each side only had 5 ¼" screws that were either stripped or broken. I replaced them with 9 screws on each side. Also, in the engine compartment, I used 1" SS self tapping screws to fix the broken ones there. Those were going up the walls that were not easily accessible. 5 screws on each side. I can take pics if you like. I was able to pull the molding off of the side and reuse. I used autobody molding removal tools purchased at Harbor Frieght. I didn't have to cut the molding, so no painting was needed.
No more popping or cracking noise. And now quiet as a mouse.