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Old 02-09-2017, 10:08 PM   #1
dgb
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2017 Georgetown 329 Inverter Question

Took delivery of a 2017 Georgetown 329DS a few months back. The inverter runs the refrigerator circuit only. When dry camping I do not want to watch the TV with the generator. In my previous MH, I was able to power up the TV circuit by connecting the inverter into the circuit breaker panel.

The inverter is located in a outside compartment next to the water heater (below the kitchen sink). Looks like the refrigerator plug directly into the inverter. The circuit panel looks like it is located at the rear of the coach.

Has anyone figured out the easiest way to power up the electrical circuit that runs the TV in the kitchen from the inverter?
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Old 02-10-2017, 09:18 AM   #2
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Look in our 364 mods thread--first couple of pages: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-102130-2.html
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:37 AM   #3
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I ran the numbers, it seems the inverter is nearly at its limit running the fridge. I decided to simply run a second inverter. I installed the second one using the same auto switching system employed by the Xantech inverter.
I installed the new inverter in the battery box and ran an AC power cord to the electrical panel. That's where I installed the auto switching unit. I also ran a second inverter power remote right next to the first one. The whole setup including inverter was only a couple hundred bucks. But now most of my plugs and all the tv's are powered.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:00 AM   #4
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With FR coaches starting in 2015, the inverter for a residential refrigerator was upped to 2000 watts. The fridge draws around 1000 watts so you should have enough extra for a TV or two. Best thing to do is get a good 12 gauge extension cord and run it to the basement bay below the power panel (usually rear on the driver's side where the power cable comes in. Get another Xantrex transfer switch and install it in on the power bay ceiling and connect it to the breaker marked outlets. You will need run two separate romex feeds, one down from the breaker and the other from the outlet feed. Once complete, you will always have power to the non GFI outlets and the TVs all the time as long as the inverter is running.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:30 AM   #5
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Ah. That makes a huge difference. My inverter is 1000 watts.

I suggest then that you run an extension cord from the inverter to a junction box near the fuse panel then hook any certain line you want powered into that junction box.
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolman_57 View Post
Look in our 364 mods thread--first couple of pages: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-102130-2.html
Thanks, I will look it up. My 2016 looks the same with the Prowatt 2000 inverter and the Prowatt SW auto Transfer Switch. Any idea where the 2 romex wires that go out of the junction box behind the transfer switch go?
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:53 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
Get another Xantrex transfer switch and install it in on the power bay ceiling and connect it to the breaker marked outlets. You will need run two separate romex feeds, one down from the breaker and the other from the outlet feed. Once complete, you will always have power to the non GFI outlets and the TVs all the time as long as the inverter is running.
Do I need a second transfer switch? Couldn't I run a separate romex from the existing transfer switch to the circuit breaker panel and hook it up to the circuit I want to power up?
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Old 02-10-2017, 11:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgb View Post
Thanks, I will look it up. My 2016 looks the same with the Prowatt 2000 inverter and the Prowatt SW auto Transfer Switch. Any idea where the 2 romex wires that go out of the junction box behind the transfer switch go?
Sure. One goes to the power panel and connects to the refrigerator breaker and the other goes to the outlet that powers the refrigerator. The reason that it only powers the refrigerator is that the electrical code requires that refrigerators have their own breaker and putting any more outlets on the transfer switch would violate that rule. What you need to do is put in another transfer switch (around $45) and power the outlets from the breaker panel. They are together when the inverter is running but when shore power or generator is connected, they end up being fed by two separate breakers.
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Old 02-10-2017, 12:16 PM   #9
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I agree. You need the transfer switch. Here is mine. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-10-2017, 12:36 PM   #10
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Thanks for clearing things up for me! Looks like I have a weekend project
ahead of me!
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:47 PM   #11
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I just did mine on my 2016 xl377. Not bad at all. I ended up using a 14-3 wire extension cord for two reasons. One is I liked the idea of having a black outdoor one (12 was yellow). Didn't see a need to put wire loom on it. Especially as loom sometimes holds moisture in. The second one is we only have 1000 watts left to use on the inverter. 1000 Watts at 110v is only 9amps. The 14 gauge cord is rated at 15 amps so I will not use close to that. I can use over 1500 watts with that cord if needed.

As for the wiring, I removed the panel next to my breaker box in the bedroom. I was able to pull the romex wire out of the breaker panel for the breaker that controls the TV along with it's ground and neutral (load side) so there was only a need to run one new line from the panel (Line side). I ran that to a junction box, the romex that was previously connected to the breaker (load side) to the junction box, and obviously the inverter switch wires also to the junction box. Made all the connections in the junction box, and it worked perfectly. I probably used maybe 2-3' of Romex. Really a simple job. Big thanks to ScottBrownstein who laid this plan out for me!
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Old 02-10-2017, 01:55 PM   #12
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Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:50 PM   #13
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I installed a smaller 120 watt pure sine wave inverter right at the tv and plug it in to the 12 volt booster outlet. the outlet is fused for 10 amp so it handles the inverter. Most newer led tv's only draw about 80 watts.
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