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Old 09-25-2024, 07:16 PM   #1
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2022 GT7 36K Engine Noise

My 2022 GT7 36K with 17,350 miles on Monday while driving home the check engine light started flashing then the engine start making a knocking noise.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-OGUbhoDO...tsKaPbg4urOy1q

What could this be?
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Old 09-25-2024, 08:20 PM   #2
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I'm confused. Did you or another family member post this video on another site a day or so ago? The responses there were to call Ford's Roadside Assistance Number and that it sounded like a rod or lifter knock.

A flashing CEL means a serious problem had occurred and the vehicle should not be driven.

EDIT: Found the other post and it's not quite identical:

How serious is this? Was driving and all the sudden this noise started. Got home, checked the codes.
P0300, P0306, P0420
Knocking noise. 7.3l v8
16,000 miles 2022 GT7


That owner posted this today:

Got it Towed today to Ford Truck Shop

Are you the same person and you're just looking for ideas of what the Ford shop may find? Or is this just a bad coincidence?

Since this is a chassis problem you'll likely get better responses on this iRV2 forum for the Ford Motorhome Chassis: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/

Ray
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Old 09-25-2024, 08:52 PM   #3
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Looking for answers, Ford will not get back to me for a few weeks, I need to know what the issue could be because the RV was actually on a RVShare Rental, and this is how it was brought back, I have little time to either submit to RVShare insurance, if the renter did something, or the engine failed and warranty will cover it.

I just don't want to be stuck with the repair bill.

In my searches, I have been seeing alot of people saying this Motor is a lemon and there is a class action law suit
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Old 09-25-2024, 09:08 PM   #4
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Ahh, that makes perfect sense. That's an internal failure and the engine computer would keep the engine from overspeeding even if the renter did something like trying to floor it in first gear.

If it was that way upon return from the renter I absolutely would start a claim. You always can cancel it if you find out otherwise.

Did the renter mention anything or does the owner never see the renter?

I would not mention anything about renting unless asked because that's considered commercial usage. FR would care but it's not their chassis warranty and you're past their one year/12,000 mile warranty anyways. A quick glance through the Ford warranty doc just mentioned they were not liable for any loss of revenue.

Quote:
In my searches, I have been seeing alot of people saying this Motor is a lemon and there is a class action law suit
There are many variations of that engine and there were lifter or cam problems earlier on that Ford handled. That engine was only introduced in the F53 in the 2020 chassis model year so yours probably is a 2021 chassis model year. All in all it seems people are very happy.

The only class action I saw was that Ford's advertising overstated the HP by 15 HP, which a motorhome owner really would not care about since the F53 is the only gas chassis currently being made. Ford paid out a small sum to all owners. The letter: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...41949-0001.pdf

Good luck,

Ray
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Old 09-25-2024, 09:13 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k05GT View Post
Looking for answers, Ford will not get back to me for a few weeks, I need to know what the issue could be because the RV was actually on a RVShare Rental, and this is how it was brought back, I have little time to either submit to RVShare insurance, if the renter did something, or the engine failed and warranty will cover it.

I just don't want to be stuck with the repair bill.

In my searches, I have been seeing alot of people saying this Motor is a lemon and there is a class action law suit
1. Your profile name……2k05GT. Should I assume you previously had a 2000 GT5 Georgetown, with the Ford Triton V10?
2. When you say this motor is a lemon, are you talking about the 7.3L V8 Godzilla engine which replaced the Triton?
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Old 09-25-2024, 09:43 PM   #6
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No, that was my race car, I had a 2005 Mustang GT, then 2017 Shelby GT350.
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Old 09-25-2024, 09:48 PM   #7
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The renter told me about 10 miles from my home it flashed an engine light, and knocking noise.

He said he was not towing a car, but they were in a hurry to get back. Driving through the mountains of West Virginia from Kentucky.

Might be the last time I rent it, we were looking to help get the payments covered until retirement in 2025.
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Old 09-26-2024, 01:49 PM   #8
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Caution on renting vs. warranty.

Before you say anything to anyone (if you haven't already), read the fine print on your warranty carefully. Renting might present a problem for you on what was essentially sold as a pleasure vehicle for consumer (not commercial) use.

Tread lightly on this until you know the facts on your specific warranty. Surely Hertz also has warranty coverage on their fleet vehicles, but I have a hunch that terms and conditions are different than a warranty for a vehicle sold to an individual for personal use.

Until you know the details, I'd be careful when talking to Ford.

I'll also echo others that your warranty may have expired some time ago...unless it has to do with emission controls.

As for the noise, look carefully for the very obvious. The flashing CEL light suggests something serious, but I met a guy about a month ago who dropped over $2K on a repair because his cooling fan shroud broke somehow and a chunk of the shroud punctured the radiator. That's an ugly noise in your video, but there's at least a small chance it's not internal. And from personal experience, the CEL often combines with other warning lights to hint at problems peripheral to engine performance.

P.S. If you are totally in the dark and the vehicle is at a Ford dealer, and they won't get to it for a long time, perhaps you can buy/rent a code reader and determine what's wrong yourself. Just be very careful to not CLEAR any codes.
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Old 09-27-2024, 08:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NXR View Post

The only class action I saw was that Ford's advertising overstated the HP by 15 HP, which a motorhome owner really would not care about since the F53 is the only gas chassis currently being made. Ford paid out a small sum to all owners. The letter: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...41949-0001.pdf

Good luck,

Ray
Ray, I never received this letter. But that is probably because I am not the original owner. Forest River is the first owner of the chassis, so all FR motorhomes like this and the "retail" owner likely would not be eligible for a campaign like this. For instance, your "Ford" warranty does NOT start with the day you purchase the motorhome like your FR warranty for the coach does. Your warranty start date will be months earlier, begins when FR takes delivery of the chassis.

First generations of the 7.3 Godzilla did have some issues. Mainly with lifter/cam issues caused by lifters not meeting engineering specs. Anything can fail of course! I am glad I didn't have to suffer the blown out spark plugs and failed cam followers the V10's had.......All of these issues have been addressed for both series. Both are reliable power plants.
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Old 09-27-2024, 10:10 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by realshelby
]Ray, I never received this letter. But that is probably because I am not the original owner. Forest River is the first owner of the chassis, so all FR motorhomes like this and the "retail" owner likely would not be eligible for a campaign like this. For instance, your "Ford" warranty does NOT start with the day you purchase the motorhome like your FR warranty for the coach does. Your warranty start date will be months earlier, begins when FR takes delivery of the chassis.
That is not accurate. The initial warranty start date indeed is when FR took delivery but the selling dealer is supposed to notify Ford of the date the completed vehicle is first titled.

"Supposed to".

Many an owner has been bit by a lazy dealer but Ford has processes to rapidly validate the initial titling date when an owner encounters that issue near the end of the warranty.

When I registered my VIN with Ford it showed the wrong warranty start date so I asked the dealer to submit the paperwork to Ford. They, of course, said they did. But lo and behold, a few weeks later the warranty start date was updated to when we bought it.

As for the $100 letter, I'd be contacting the dealer and Ford. If your VIN falls in that chassis model year you're supposed to get the check and many people have reported they got it.

Quote:
First generations of the 7.3 Godzilla did have some issues. Mainly with lifter/cam issues caused by lifters not meeting engineering specs. Anything can fail of course! I am glad I didn't have to suffer the blown out spark plugs and failed cam followers the V10's had.......All of these issues have been addressed for both series. Both are reliable power plants.
Well put. I usually say "Anything can fail and that's why there are warranties." But many people demand perfection in an imperfect world.

But there are differences between regular failures and negligence-induced failures caused by poor manufacturing processes, more on the house systems than the engine and drivetrain, fortunately.

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Old 09-27-2024, 12:40 PM   #11
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"Supposed to" tells it all!

Ford is actually pretty good about taking care of powertrain issues where the start date may be in dispute. Problem is that 95% of owners will never realize their may be a way to move back the warranty start date. Proof of purchase date of RV is likely all that Ford would need.

With the 15 HP in question......I assume the "actual" rating of the 7.3 V8 is then 335 HP. I initially thought it was 350 HP. Regardless, I think it does an admirable job of pulling my (up to) 28,000 lbs GCVWR around.....while it averages near 8 mpg doing it.
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Old 09-27-2024, 12:49 PM   #12
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I have listened to the video many times now. Just does not sound like a rod knock, dropped valve, etc. I think at a noise level like that, something would have locked up or come out the block by now!

This sounds more like a rotating part hitting something. Like something hitting a transmission flex plate or converter. I would crawl under and inspect the transmission area for ANY sign of damage. I would also closely look at the oil pan. These have a shaft mounted oil pump....any denting of the oil pan could be hitting some of that assembly. Hard to tell on a video. I just feel like the noise seems external from the engine block. Maybe listen from underneath?
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Old 09-27-2024, 01:00 PM   #13
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The three codes listed in post #2 deal with misfires and low catalytic converter efficiency, which can be caused by a misfire.

Maybe it misfired due to parts rattling around?

The blinking CEL says this is not an external problem to me.

Ray
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Old 09-27-2024, 02:28 PM   #14
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I did not think to again read your post about what you seen on another forum. Yes, a blinking CEL would make one think it is internal.

Unless there is a sensor knocked loose for instance.......

I would like to know if this was actually driven for some miles like this?
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Old 09-27-2024, 02:58 PM   #15
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I would like to know if this was actually driven for some miles like this?
At least ten miles per post #7. On the plus side, that should remove any uncertainty as to whether the problem is intermittent.

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Old 09-27-2024, 03:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 2k05GT View Post
The renter told me about 10 miles from my home it flashed an engine light, and knocking noise.

He said he was not towing a car, but they were in a hurry to get back. Driving through the mountains of West Virginia from Kentucky.

Might be the last time I rent it, we were looking to help get the payments covered until retirement in 2025.
You have to be comfortable with his story that it was only 10 miles from your home. Then again…..what if this happened at the furthest point in their travels? Did they just continue to drive because they could? What were you going to do and offer as the renter? This is one reason why MOST owners don’t rent. Let the professionals rent their fleets.
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Old 09-27-2024, 03:17 PM   #17
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This is a case where there are....WAY too many questions that need to be asked.
"At least 10 miles" could be 100 for all anyone knows.
I doubt the noise AND the CEL occurred at the same time if an internal problem. Usually takes a bit for the computer to throw a code after a fault begins.
The codes mentioned above indicate a misfire on #6 cylinder. That is the second cylinder toward the rear from front on left bank. If it were me, I would first pull the #6 spark plug and inspect. Then pull the left valve cover and check the pushrods/rocker assembly. That noise could be a component loose in that area. Just does not sound like a connecting rod knock, piston knock. But I have been wrong many times......
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Old 10-03-2024, 06:47 PM   #18
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Without opening it up, it’s just a guess but here’s my guess:

Your renter might have oversped the engine and created the audible piston slap and accompanying codes.

Instead of using the brakes and gearing to keep the tachometer under 4000 R.P.M., the hills got the upper hand he might have accidentally red-lined it.
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Old 10-03-2024, 07:37 PM   #19
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Then it would be covered by warranty because the ECM is supposed to keep the engine from overspeeding and even can change the gears if needed.

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Old 10-03-2024, 08:20 PM   #20
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Then it would be covered by warranty because the ECM is supposed to keep the engine from overspeeding and even can change the gears if needed.

Ray
That’s a negative. If you manually put the coach in third gear to use the engine’s compression to reduce downhill speed, it will stay in that gear until you command it otherwise or until things scatter.

There’s a reason the engineers design it that way but for conversation, let’s say things work as you suggest:

Your brakes are warming on grade so you set the gear selection to third speed so that the engine creates resistance to rotation.

The grade is stiff and the ECM sees the engine speed increasing so it puts the transmission into fourth speed which will allow the wheels to rotate faster without rotating the engine faster.

Now the brakes get less help from the engine.

Still on grade, the speeds increase so as the engine speed increases, the controller slaps it into 5th speed to keep the revs down…..

As you can see, that won’t work mate.

I can tell you from experience, once it accepts a manually commanded gear, it stays in that gear. It will not accept that selection if the speed is too high but once it does accept it, it will not release it. If the grade increases or the brakes fade and the wheel speed increases, it can and will overspeed the engine.

Peace
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