270S slide repair and now this?

[Gnomads]

After noticing the rollers from under our 2015 270sk’ slide out was making groves, some deep in the fiberglass we installed 5 strips of stainless steel today glued and screwed down the slide out rolls so much better. But then we noticed when the slide was all the way in 2 sections from under fridge made a long divit in the floor. I ordered slides for under those areas but should this be happening? Why is it so low when fully retracted? So frustrating. Slide is out till AP Product slides come.

[newer]

I don't think that this is unique to a 270S (due to single large slide), but I also recently attached aluminum under the slide (over rollers) with marine glue and screws (just to hold until glue was set).

I do not have any floor divots, but if the outside is raised up too much on rollers, the inside edge could be damaged like a teeter totter having its side lower and "rubbing". 1/8" was my compromise - strong, but not lifting too much. 1/8" raised on roller is probably going to lower interior edge by move than 1/8". I do not know how level it will be after adding plates. It may depend on your cables and how they are adjusted - if they ever were - No LOL.

[Gnomads]

My sheets are 1/16 thick. So strange. Hoping the plastic slides will prevent those divits

[McKee]

Hello! I'm having the same issue with wear on the underside of the slide. Could you please share where you sourced these aluminum plates and how you worked them between the roller and slide? Did you jack up the slide? I appreciate any advice you can offer!

[Gnomads]

Originally Posted by McKee

Hello! I'm having the same issue with wear on the underside of the slide. Could you please share where you sourced these aluminum plates and how you worked them between the roller and slide? Did you jack up the slide? I appreciate any advice you can offer!

Not aluminum, they are stainless steel. Aluminum won’t hold up. I purchased commercial restaurant Kickplates from eBay. One per roller. About 1/16 thick. Glued and screwed them in

[McKee]

The kickplate idea is brilliant! Thank you very much!

[newer]

Originally Posted by Gnomads

Not aluminum, they are stainless steel. Aluminum won’t hold up. I purchased commercial restaurant Kickplates from eBay. One per roller. About 1/16 thick. Glued and screwed them in

I call BS/FAKE NEWS, .... Obviously you did not see/read post #2. Aluminum is perfect and flawless. It has been on and used since last September 2022 (over 14 months) and is holding up perfectly. It is how any manufacturer should produce/install slides, but they are nor professionals! I am an OEM in a different industry and know what to do.

FYI, there are no wear masks on the aluminum at ALL after many trips and slide out movements - Unlike the fiberglass that show up fairly quickly!

[Aussieguy]

certainly adding any wear strip steel , aluminum even more fiberglass will be a benefit.




Aluminum requires a lot of prep and attention to detail if you want to structurally glue it
screws are more reliable...

[newer]

Originally Posted by Aussieguy

certainly adding any wear strip steel , aluminum even more fiberglass will be a benefit.


Aluminum requires a lot of prep and attention to detail if you want to structurally glue it
screws are more reliable...

Again, opinions vs knowledge.
Installation of the aluminum was a POC!. It was lifting the slide even the 1/4" required to slip the aluminum in was a PITA!

Screws are NOT NECESSARY aside from holding aluminum in place allowing a perfect seal/bond to the fiberglass while the proper/correct Adhesive/Sealant is allowed to setup and dry. The screws could be removed after it is set up, but no need. They don't actually add anything once the sealant is dried.

FYI, for those that do not know, the proper glue is a product manufactured by 3M called 5200 Polyurethane Adhesive/Sealant. There is a 4200 product version also, but the 5200 dries hard vs soft and flexible.

[Aussieguy]

you still need good preparation ... never said you can't glue it


My 2c is based on years of professional gluing stuff together

buying epoxy and resorcinol adhesives in 50 gallon drums


all for construction / building industry
developed industrial process for producing world first commercially viable steel re-enforced glulam beams.
Tested by independent University Professor of engineer using 1000 ton presses to break full size joints.... (that was fun)


Again, opinions vs knowledge.

YOU???

[Aussieguy]

FYI epoxy and even super glue is good for aluminum.




Epoxy shear strength 3000 psi
superglue... not good at SHOCK loading


5200 is OK as a general marine filler/adhesive use it a lot on my boat
cheap easy to use...... but would not be my choice for high strength/wear

5200 shear strength 200psi

https://technicaldatasheets.3m.com/en_US?pif=000891

[Gnomads]

Originally Posted by newer

I call BS/FAKE NEWS, .... Obviously you did not see/read post #2. Aluminum is perfect and flawless. It has been on and used since last September 2022 (over 14 months) and is holding up perfectly. It is how any manufacturer should produce/install slides, but they are nor professionals! I am an OEM in a different industry and know what to do.

FYI, there are no wear masks on the aluminum at ALL after many trips and slide out movements - Unlike the fiberglass that show up fairly quickly!

BS/Fake news comment is an excessive and uncalled for comment. If the wheel gouged a groove in the fiberglass like mine did than a 1/16 sheet of aluminum will not support the slide without falling into the existing groove. If you use aluminum with a firm backing I am sure it will hold. Stainless steel is stronger and will surely hold more weight why wouldn’t one go for the stronger fix. I am glade the aluminum worked for you but in my case it most likely would have failed. Thank you for giving another option to the issue.

[newer]

The only prep required is a cleaning with denatured alcohol to ensure adhesion (most thing windex or something else) - unless like some/many that let their TT, RV get moldy...

Regarding strength, it is used to attach multi ton keels to sailboats. The slide rolling on this doesn't even come close. No need for a new recent picture - The aluminum for the rollers to roll on look like they were just installed today! Probably because the rollers are finally actually rolling correctly instead of sliding or skipping on the fiberglass bottom of the slideout.

I don't need to justify my credentials as I am a professional OEM in a different industry, not RV, that has never has a return in nearly 4 decades. The "I know better, you are wrong" mentality that is pervasive in forums is why I rarely try to help any more.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Gnomads

After noticing the rollers from under our 2015 270sk’ slide out was making groves, some deep in the fiberglass we installed 5 strips of stainless steel today glued and screwed down the slide out rolls so much better. But then we noticed when the slide was all the way in 2 sections from under fridge made a long divit in the floor. I ordered slides for under those areas but should this be happening? Why is it so low when fully retracted? So frustrating. Slide is out till AP Product slides come.

your slide out cables are too loose and need adjusted to pull the slide in at the proper angle . guessing they are pulling more at the top of the slide causing it to tilt fwd gouging the floors. the cable should be tight 1/2 play they tend to stretch over time .

[Gnomads]

Originally Posted by MR.M

your slide out cables are too loose and need adjusted to pull the slide in at the proper angle . guessing they are pulling more at the top of the slide causing it to tilt fwd gouging the floors. the cable should be tight 1/2 play they tend to stretch over time .

Yes we adjusted those as well. All good now